Please post details about any rebolting that any of you have done or hear about. Also, if possible please record additional details about the types of bolts being replaced, and patchwork/re-drilling due to broken bolts and bits for future reference.
When rebolting routes that have not been attached to a particular first ascent party, in other words "Unknown" climbs, the details become all the more important when getting leads on who may have originally done the route. What happens is that the rebolting makes the climb look like a modern route and amongst other routes may be confusing when trying to figure out which route is which. Please record rebolting publicly somewhere. The ASCA web site is another great resource for this. Please donate to them too.
Shuteye Ridge
Queens Throne
In The Heat Of The Night- P2 right variation bolt and P2 anchor; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.
Coronet- P1 and P2 belay bolts, ; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.
Midnight Caller- P3 bolts #2, #3; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.
Risin Of The Moon- P2 bolt #2; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.
Big Sleep
Route-Big Sleep
Replaced By-Steve McCabe
Both P4 protection bolts replaced 2011.
P1 anchor bolts(2) replaced 2013. Thanks to Bob Steed and Ford Merrick
P2 anchor bolt(1) still need to be replaced as per Steve McCabe's request.
Route-Unknown one pitch 5.8 route between Gumbies Adventure and Moonlight Madness
Replaced By-John Godar
One protection bolt and anchor for P1 was replaced 2011.
Minerva
Route-Tail Feather
Replaced By-John Godar
P2 anchor-one of two original bolts replaced 2011. All protection bolts still original and left for nostalgia. Most are unnecessary when climbing with modern gear and even the one useful bolt has a nut placement nearby that you see only after you clip.
Voodoo Dome
Route-Amber
Update-Went to replace but instead inspected bolts and anchor. All solid 5/16" Buttonheads with homemade hangers and anchor is 3/8" wedges with homemade hangers, also solid, but all non-stainless.
Route-Voodoo Child
Replaced By-John Godar
Replaced anchor.
Chiquito Dome
Route-South Chimney
Replaced By-John Godar
Both bolts on P3 replaced.
Route-Elegant Inclinations
Replaced By-Clint Cummins, Joel Ager
Replaced all bolts.
Chiquito Dome Routes Needing Rebolting
KOPA
Fresno Dome and Willow Creek Wall
Narley Waves
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Nine or ten (all) bolts replaced on both pitches, including belay bolts.
The Woods
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Three bolts replaced.
Split Decision
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Six bolts replaced, one hanger replaced with existing bolt.
Breakthrough and Conquer
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
5 out and 5 in plus 2 anchor bolts with rings. (The anchor bolts, rings and 2 lead bolts were mine from earlier so 3 ASCA bolts). 09/11
Fresno Flats
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 1 bolt at 1st and 2nd anchors. 09/00
Friction Dandy
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 2 anchor bolts and 2 protection bolts.09/00
Huckleberry Finn
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all bolts and anchor.09/11
Mule Train
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 2 anchor bolts and 7 protection bolts09/00
Panorama
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson
Replaced 3 bolts + 2 anchor bolts with rings. 10/09
South Pillar Summit
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced anchors.09/00
South Pillar (false summit)
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 1 anchor bolt.09/00
5.10d between Mule Train and Ghastly Gulch
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all 8 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts.11/09
Waiting for Delta
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all bolts and anchor. 09/11
Waterwheel
Replaced By-Jerry, Lynnea Anderson
Replaced 2 bolts, same anchor as Panorama. 10/09
You Can't Win (broken flake so now 11b)
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced 4 bolts.09/11
Fresno Dome Routes Needing Rebolting:
Time Lapse, all first pitch bolts and anchor/rap bolts on all 3 pitches.
Are You a Virgin, first pitch anchor
Hawk Dome
Second Thoughts -Replaced 5 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts. 07/10
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson
Steppin' Up - Replaced 3 protection bolts and 1 anchor bolts. 07/10
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson
Upper Willow Creek Wall
Left Formation: unknown 5.9 4th route from left -Replaced 2 bolts plus rap anchor. 2007
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Right Formation: Unknown 10c/d on far left -Replaced 6 bolts plus rap anchor. 2006
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Right Formation: Unknown 10a 3rd route from the right -Replaced 5 bolts plus rap anchors. 2006
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Lower Willow Creek Wall
Common anchor for Hoser, Blind Faith and Sign of the Times -Replaced 2 bolts plus rap hangers. 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Door Number Three -Replaced 8 bolts, route complete. Reused all the Metolius hangers including rap hangers. The bolts were non-stainless 3/8 and all but two broke right off. 11/11
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Easy Money -Replaced 4 lead bolts and 2 anchor bolts with rings. 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Flamous -Replaced 4 bolts; shares anchor with Starched Shorts. 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Hoser -Replaced 4 bolts. 2005
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Impatience -Upper bolts and anchors replaced by an unknown party several years ago, lower bolts replaced. 1 out and 2 in (there was a broken off 1/4" that was original). 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Starched Shorts -Replaced 5 bolts plus anchor with rap rings 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Unknown 5.8 just right of Door Number Three -Replaced funky anchor with ASCA bolts and rap hangers. 11/11
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Minarets Road
Disappearing Dome
Memphis Blues-
All protection bolts and anchors replaced.
Fuller Buttes
East Butte
White Dike-All bolts replaced
Fear of Flying-All bolts replaced except for P5 anchor.
West Butte
Unknown 5.9-Highest in gulley between Buttes. All bolts replaced and anchor.
The Balls
Boulder Garden Slab
Replaced bolts and rap anchors on an unknown 5.7 near the right edge of a long roof system. 7 lead bolts and 4 rap bolts out and the same in, route complete. 6 of the 7 lead bolts and all the rap anchors, all 3/8 non-stainless, snapped right off. 09/11 Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Unknown 10b/c R -Fun route with really bad bolts, 3 out, 3 in route complete. This is the furthest right bolted route. 09/11
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Tempest Dome
Plate Route- only bolt replaced
Replaced By-Unknown
Havana Ball
P1 bolts replaced
Replaced By-Unknown
Mammoth Pools
Route-That Little Strapless Number
Replaced By-John Godar
Replaced the three bolts of P1 so far. More to come.
Mt. Starr King
West Face - Replaced By: Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, all bolts replaced, 6/2012
West Flake - Replaced By: Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, the only bolt replaced, 6/2012
SW Face - Replaced By: Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, the only bolt replaced, others added 6/2012
Nuts and Bolts - Replaced By: Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, all bolts on first 2 pitches replaced, anchor on p3 not replaced, 6/2012
