Re: Southern Yosemite Rebolting - List of Completed and Most Needed Projects

[John]

Please post details about any rebolting that any of you have done or hear about. Also, if possible please record additional details about the types of bolts being replaced, and patchwork/re-drilling due to broken bolts and bits for future reference.

When rebolting routes that have not been attached to a particular first ascent party, in other words "Unknown" climbs, the details become all the more important when getting leads on who may have originally done the route. What happens is that the rebolting makes the climb look like a modern route and amongst other routes may be confusing when trying to figure out which route is which. Please record rebolting publicly somewhere. The ASCA web site is another great resource for this. Please donate to them too.


Shuteye Ridge

Queens Throne

In The Heat Of The Night- P2 right variation bolt and P2 anchor; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.

Coronet- P1 and P2 belay bolts, ; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.

Midnight Caller- P3 bolts #2, #3; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.

Risin Of The Moon- P2 bolt #2; Replaced by Clint Cummins, Bob Steed, Sharon.

Big Sleep
Route-Big Sleep
Replaced By-Steve McCabe
Both P4 protection bolts replaced 2011.
P1 anchor bolts(2) replaced 2013. Thanks to Bob Steed and Ford Merrick
P2 anchor bolt(1) still need to be replaced as per Steve McCabe's request.

Route-Unknown one pitch 5.8 route between Gumbies Adventure and Moonlight Madness
Replaced By-John Godar
One protection bolt and anchor for P1 was replaced 2011.

Minerva
Route-Tail Feather
Replaced By-John Godar
P2 anchor-one of two original bolts replaced 2011. All protection bolts still original and left for nostalgia. Most are unnecessary when climbing with modern gear and even the one useful bolt has a nut placement nearby that you see only after you clip.

Voodoo Dome
Route-Amber
Update-Went to replace but instead inspected bolts and anchor. All solid 5/16" Buttonheads with homemade hangers and anchor is 3/8" wedges with homemade hangers, also solid, but all non-stainless.

Route-Voodoo Child
Replaced By-John Godar
Replaced anchor.

Chiquito Dome
Route-South Chimney
Replaced By-John Godar
Both bolts on P3 replaced.

Route-Elegant Inclinations
Replaced By-Clint Cummins, Joel Ager
Replaced all bolts.

Chiquito Dome Routes Needing Rebolting
KOPA

Fresno Dome and Willow Creek Wall

Narley Waves
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Nine or ten (all) bolts replaced on both pitches, including belay bolts.

The Woods
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Three bolts replaced.

Split Decision
Replaced By-Mark Fletcher
Six bolts replaced, one hanger replaced with existing bolt.

Breakthrough and Conquer
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
5 out and 5 in plus 2 anchor bolts with rings. (The anchor bolts, rings and 2 lead bolts were mine from earlier so 3 ASCA bolts). 09/11

Fresno Flats
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 1 bolt at 1st and 2nd anchors. 09/00
   
Friction Dandy    
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 2 anchor bolts and 2 protection bolts.09/00

Huckleberry Finn
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all bolts and anchor.09/11

Mule Train
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 2 anchor bolts and 7 protection bolts09/00

Panorama
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson
Replaced 3 bolts + 2 anchor bolts with rings. 10/09

South Pillar Summit
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced anchors.09/00

South Pillar (false summit)
Replaced By-Lawrence Garcia
Replaced 1 anchor bolt.09/00

5.10d between Mule Train and Ghastly Gulch    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all 8 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts.11/09

Waiting for Delta
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced all bolts and anchor. 09/11

Waterwheel
Replaced By-Jerry, Lynnea Anderson
Replaced 2 bolts, same anchor as Panorama. 10/09

You Can't Win    (broken flake so now 11b)
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson
Replaced 4 bolts.09/11

Fresno Dome Routes Needing Rebolting:
Time Lapse, all first pitch bolts and anchor/rap bolts on all 3 pitches.
Are You a Virgin, first pitch anchor

Hawk Dome

Second Thoughts -Replaced 5 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts. 07/10    
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson

Steppin' Up - Replaced 3 protection bolts and 1 anchor bolts. 07/10
Replaced By-Jerry & Lynnea Anderson

Upper Willow Creek Wall
Left Formation: unknown 5.9 4th route from left -Replaced 2 bolts plus rap anchor. 2007    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Right Formation: Unknown 10c/d on far left -Replaced 6 bolts plus rap anchor. 2006    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Right Formation: Unknown 10a 3rd route from the right -Replaced 5 bolts plus rap anchors. 2006    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Lower Willow Creek Wall
Common anchor for Hoser, Blind Faith and Sign of the Times    -Replaced 2 bolts plus rap hangers. 10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Door Number Three    -Replaced 8 bolts, route complete. Reused all the Metolius hangers including rap hangers. The bolts were non-stainless 3/8 and all but two broke right off. 11/11
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Easy Money -Replaced 4 lead bolts and 2 anchor bolts with rings.    10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Flamous -Replaced 4 bolts; shares anchor with Starched Shorts.    10/09
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Hoser -Replaced 4 bolts.    2005    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Impatience -Upper bolts and anchors replaced by an unknown party several years ago, lower bolts replaced. 1 out and 2 in (there was a broken off 1/4" that was original).    10/09    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Starched Shorts -Replaced 5 bolts plus anchor with rap rings    10/09    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Unknown 5.8 just right of Door Number Three -Replaced funky anchor with ASCA bolts and rap hangers. 11/11    
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Minarets Road

Disappearing Dome
Memphis Blues-
All protection bolts and anchors replaced.

Fuller Buttes
East Butte
White Dike-All bolts replaced

Fear of Flying-All bolts replaced except for P5 anchor.

West Butte
Unknown 5.9-Highest in gulley between Buttes. All bolts replaced and anchor.

The Balls

Boulder Garden Slab
Replaced bolts and rap anchors on an unknown 5.7 near the right edge of a long roof system. 7 lead bolts and 4 rap bolts out and the same in, route complete. 6 of the 7 lead bolts and all the rap anchors, all 3/8 non-stainless, snapped right off. 09/11 Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Unknown 10b/c R -Fun route with really bad bolts, 3 out, 3 in route complete. This is the furthest right bolted route. 09/11
Replaced By-Jerry Anderson

Tempest Dome
Plate Route- only bolt replaced
Replaced By-Unknown

Havana Ball
P1 bolts replaced
Replaced By-Unknown

Mammoth Pools

Route-That Little Strapless Number
Replaced By-John Godar
Replaced the three bolts of P1 so far. More to come.

Mt. Starr King

West Face - Replaced By: Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, all bolts replaced, 6/2012
West Flake -  Replaced By: Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, the only bolt replaced, 6/2012
SW Face -  Replaced By: Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, the only bolt replaced, others added 6/2012
Nuts and Bolts -  Replaced By: Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, all bolts on first 2 pitches replaced, anchor on p3 not replaced, 6/2012

[YETI]

Mt. Starr King-

Bolt replacement 6/10/12

Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, Dan Merrick, Bob Steed

West face route
Nuts and bolts
Tom Rogers route


Also, a bolt was replaced on a unkown route, Right of the West Face route.

Info from here : http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1850876&tn=20

YETI

[mungeclimber]

These are completed rebolting efforts, and not a list of rebolting "needs"?  Might be worth labelling it in that way.

[John]

How's that? Kinda long name.

[YETI]

MT Starr King COMLETED rebolting

route- West Face route
route- Nuts and Bolts
route-Tom Rogers route


YETI

[John]

MT Starr King COMLETED rebolting

route- West Face route
route- Nuts and Bolts
route-Tom Rogers route


YETI

This might sound like a dumb question, but is the route called the Tom Rogers Route? I don't have a record of one put up by Tom Rogers.

[Clint Cummins]

Roger called it the Tom Rogers Route, but Tom didn't call it anything.  I called it the SW Face on my overlay:


Here is the corrected rebolting info:

Mt. Starr King - West Face - Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, all bolts replaced, 6/2012
Mt. Starr King - West Flake - Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, the only bolt replaced, 6/2012
Mt. Starr King - SW Face - Bob Steed, Dan Merrick, the only bolt replaced, others added 6/2012
Mt. Starr King - Nuts and Bolts - Roger Brown, Clint Cummins, all bolts on first 2 pitches replaced, anchor on p3 not replaced, 6/2012

Tom Rogers (as qigongclimber) posted the original great Mt. Starr King thread, where he mostly described ascents of the West Face,
but also mentioned doing the SW Face and placing one bolt.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/West-Face-of-Starr-King-Hidden-Gem-of-Yosemite/t10616n.html
As I recall, Bob and Dan replaced it.  They also placed other bolts, as I thought Tom's route might be at "West Flake",
so I thought they might be doing a new route.
They were going to call it Illillouette Face.

The plan in the updated Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs book is to include rebolting info with the FA info.

[John]

Thanks Clint, I updated the list.

I got sucked into reading that West Face TR and subsequent detailed discussion until I got dizzy and had to stop! Lots of great info there.

[Jerry]

A couple of routes on the SW side of Fresno Dome need bolts replaced: Time Lapse, all first pitch bolts and anchor/rap bolts on all 3 pitches. Are You a Virgin, first pitch anchor/rap bolts. It's on my to do list for this year but very happy if someone beats me to it!

[John]

I updated the list and I think I have all the routes from the ASCA site.

Thanks for all of your rebolting work Soyobum.

[daniel banquo merrick]

Bob Steed and Ford Merrick replaced the first anchors on Big Sleep. There were Leeper hangers and 1/4" split shank threaded studs. Now SS 3/8" wedge bolts, SS hangers and short carbon steel chains.

[John]

Thanks for the update but where is this anchor?

[daniel banquo merrick]

The two bolts at the top of the first pitch of Big Sleep. I corrected the above post. (dementia moment)

[Stephen M]

I didn't know people were climbing The Big Sleep. I am tempted to go add protection bolts to my route this week-end because there is ground fall potential from way up there. Thanks for replacing the anchor.

Stephen

[John]

Stephen

It is your route, but I would like to submit my vote for leaving it exactly the way it is.

Personally, I would hate to see every route eventually get retrobolted into another boring and safe slab clip up.

That route is a true rarity for Shuteye Ridge and I would miss it. Be proud of it.