Tempest Dome

[NateD]

Very nice.
Is that a bolt to the right of you on p.1 of Havana? Don't have the topo in front of me, but is it an original you didn't use, or a new line? I seem to recall seeing a bolt thereabouts 12 years ago.

One of the only times I've run into other climbers at the Balls was when some fellas came down from Tempest and we were parked nearby. They raved about the quality of VCD, a pretty new line at the time, and kindly shared beta.

[John]

Nate
There is a nice little one pitch bolted route, about 5.8, between Havana Ball and VCD sharing the same start as Havana. From there, the rock is so featured that you could easily continue up to the P2 anchor of VCD if you wanted to.

Vaya Con Dios is gorgeous. Unfortunately, someone added bolts to the first pitch.

[DaveyTree]

That roof certainly looks like it would be intimidating. Love all those features. Have to Check that thing out. I should be up there Sept 12-15th. Are those routes in the old guide? If not can someone post up in the secret bin or email me some beta. I have only been on Night Watch, Garden Slabs and another that I don't recall which.

[NateD]

Unfortunately, someone added bolts to the first pitch.

Really sad to hear this. Like Sahib on Chiquito, this was one of those lines that you look up at with wide eyes and wonder, and as I told the FAists, with my knees knocking! It was something to inspire to do someday, when you were feeling really confident and solid (as I really don't thrive off of fear in climbing). It sure got the accolades of the guys I ran into, who said it was on par with the very best routes at Tuolumne.

[John]

Sean and Josh linking the 5.8 to the P2 anchor of Vaya Con Dios. Apparently a little exciting.
There are some old fixed pins to the left of the P1 anchor for Vaya Con Dios suggesting that someone has been through here.

[John]

P3 of Odyssey- 5.9

[susan]

Yeti on unknown route btw Havana Ball and Vaya con Dios


John on Vaya con Dios - original route


p.s. The photos will straighten out. They are oriented correctly in Photobucket, but pb just needs to catch up.

[mungeclimber]

where is Odyssey? Looks great!

[John]

Odyssey is in the Spencer guide and is what I would describe as the left-front of Tempest Dome. Feels like a first ascent when climbing it due to the very careful routefinding and gear fiddling needed. Good route and good rock but a bit real up on P3 I thought. I still don't know if we took the right line but it all seems to match the guide.

[susan]

Dug up my tricams for climbing at Tempest that day and enjoyed using all of them.

[jeff]

Greaaaat photos Sue!!!

What's a tricam?

[John]

I actually used one! It felt kinda funny.

[YETI]

Here are a few shot of the triple direct route finishing on Con Dios.

Awesome 5.8 pitch.

Pretty tricky here, this section had 2 fixed pins in a small corner off the belay.

This one is for you JEFE!  ALL TRICAM BELAY.  Boom!

Easy .6 jaunt up to the roof and over to P2 anchors on Con Dios.

Super Steep, felt like a badass pinnacles climb.

Oh yeah, we forgot to bring water on the climb, training I say. 
Some of the best stone I have been on yet.

[susan]

Your faces say it all... THAT is an awesome route!

[John]

Sick!