Author Topic: Tempest Dome  (Read 23278 times)

John

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #45 on: June 10, 2015, 03:59:37 pm »
Yeti, that is the pitch where Sean said he found a pin.

rrdisciple

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #46 on: June 10, 2015, 04:03:49 pm »
Not sure how to embed an image in a post -- I've attached my annotated topo for Elegance. My notes say the rack was RPs, wireds, TCUs (0-4), 1 each Friend #1-3.5 (Camalots #.5-3) -- and lots of long slings.

The first and second pitches of that route are definitely runout with mandatory harder moves pretty far out from pro. I went up and down the opening sequences of that second pitch a bunch of times before committing -- it was one of the most serious leads I had done at that grade. My notes show 5.8 moves right off the belay, then the 5.10c crux well above that first bolt and I was able to place a cam in a pocket before clipping the second bolt. Talk about relief.

Higgins was a master at mind control -- and without sticky rubber!

John

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #47 on: June 10, 2015, 04:08:44 pm »
Sam-
Maybe this will help you for posting photos: http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=26.0 we would love to see more.

rrdisciple

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #48 on: June 10, 2015, 04:12:52 pm »
Re: the connection between first pitch belay on Havana Ball and the second pitch belay on VCD... I could have placed a pin. We pretty much always carried a few knifeblades and small LAs when we were new-routing. I don't find anything about that in my notes, though. I have a dim recollection of seeing a fixed pin off to the left of the first pitch belay on VCD when we did the FA, but that wasn't on the line we took to connect HB and VCD.

John

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #49 on: June 10, 2015, 04:19:30 pm »
There is still a pin on HB right next to the P2 anchor of VCD. The roof of HB is only like 8-12' to the left.

rrdisciple

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #50 on: June 10, 2015, 04:33:33 pm »
That sounds right. The roof pitch on HB was intimidating from that belay.

susan

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #51 on: June 11, 2015, 06:11:59 pm »
Sam, thank you for posting your Elegant Inclinations topo. Great notes! That is some proud climbing for sure.
B must be Sahib?

Have you been back over and seen Chiquito these days?

Getting a little too hot there for me anyway this time of year.



 

 


susan

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #52 on: June 11, 2015, 06:17:31 pm »
Sam, Did you ever topo the other routes you mentioned doing in the BGS area?

rrdisciple

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #53 on: June 12, 2015, 08:56:57 am »
Susan,

Haven't been to Chiquito for some years, but I climbed a bunch of the routes there in the '90s (never Sahib, though, which is indeed Route B in the topo I posted -- that route looked even scarier than Elegance).

I'm starting to dig through boxes of old climbing stuff to see if I have topos of some of the other routes we did in those days. Some new routes we did we thought might have been done previously or we thought other folks should have the same opportunity for adventure so I didn't make topos of everything.

susan

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #54 on: June 15, 2015, 02:21:59 pm »
Good intentions those.

Would love to see more of your topos, photos, and stories too!


susan

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #55 on: July 07, 2015, 09:56:01 am »
Sure would be nice to see you out there again Sam. Would be really something if there were ever a group gathering also capturing earlier climbers of the area.

Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #56 on: July 08, 2015, 02:38:44 pm »
There is that Big Sleep gathering this weekend. Mainly Supertopo folks. Guy Keesee has climbed hereabouts bitd..

NateD

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #57 on: July 08, 2015, 02:49:37 pm »
Wish I could make it. Sounds like a raffle is happening too. Have fun, Ger!

susan

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #58 on: July 08, 2015, 04:59:37 pm »
Glad you'll be getting out there this weekend Ger.

John

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Re: Tempest Dome
« Reply #59 on: July 08, 2015, 05:13:51 pm »
Guy Keesee has climbed hereabouts bitd..

Does he have any routes there?