Tempest Dome

[John]

Did the "Plate Route" - 10a Higgins, Kamps '76

Very fun route.

Start


P2. Hmm, which roof to head towards?


The gear is the funnest part



We headed towards an anchor that wasn't the correct belay so we had to move it over to the right and Sue got a bonus pitch.


This roof is so intimidating from below but ended up being one of the best parts. Poor gear choices but very positive holds in a super airy setting. I know the pictures look like nice weather but it actually started to rain when I started climbing and had to move quick so there could have been more gear placement choices that I missed.


P3 (P4 the way we did it)

[daniel banquo merrick]

very cool

[NateD]

Good going. Tackling another old school route. I realized it's now been 12 years since I climbed that dome - too long. And I remember that route looked quite intimidating!
Thanks for the pics!

[NateD]

Here is a pic of Royal on Tempest, which he dug up and shared several years ago. After seeing your second to last pic, John, I thought it was at the same spot. But it's obviously not, and I believe it to be on the FA of Miranda, although I didn't head that way. IF it is on Miranda, it's likely the start of the last pitch, and I'm not sure the topo is accurate.

[mungeclimber]

great pics

[susan]

This is an excellent route! Powerful yet delicate moves at the crux. A treat to follow, and needless to say seems it would be a stout lead on P1 for 10a. I'm mostly certain there is more gear opportunity on that upper pitch roof than John placed, too. The rock and air way up there just makes you smile how fun it is. 

Love the photo of Royal Robbins. Are those shoes Keds?

Can definitely see why you recalled this shot and thought it might be the same spot, Nate.



   

[susan]

Shot halfway up the second pitch and to the left 30 feet or so where we stopped to recheck the topo on the camera. Nice ledge. 


The rock in this area feels more like sandstone and is sandy in places. It otherwise reminds me at times of petrified wood or bone.

[NateD]

Are those shoes Keds?

Dunno, but he's pretty stylin' eh?

[NateD]

John is pretty stylin' too, I must say. But when are you gonna convince him to wear a skid lid on those bold routes? 

[susan]

Appreciate the effort there Nate. He does own one. Just so you know, I request it of him often but haven't delivered an ultimatum yet. Fraid I'm taking one for the team if he ever gets knocked in the head and drops his brake hand (haven't tried that guilt tactic til now). He has worn a helmet climbing... but seems entirely uncomfortable with one. It's like anything at first takes getting used to.

[susan]

Yes, Royal Robbins is most definitely styling.  Looks like he's running up that thing.

[John]

For the record, this is a reasonable route. I wouldn't recommend it if you were just breaking into that grade, but it does have truly bomber gear placements. They are just occasionally a tiny bit further apart than what most people are used to with bolts yet usually on very positive climbing on excellent rock. That is a major reason why this is so fun and exciting.

It is so refreshing to climb a route like this and I wish there were more just like it, but they are unfortunately super rare.

[John]

I love the RR shot, Nate. Can't get enough of the history of the area.

[mike a]

this looks super fun just might have to check this route out on the 4th of july week when amy and i are in the area, thanks for the cool pix, mike a.

[John]

Some more Tempest pics


Havana Ball P1



Love the gear



Vaya Con Dios P3 roof. Super classic, period.



Very fun knob climbing on VCD P4 (not the original P3 belay, but we belayed from the Havana Ball anchor and barely made it to the top from here)