Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information

[mike a]

and one more

[John]

Thanks for sharing Mike.

[Climberdude]

John and Susan, it was good to see you today at Fresno Dome.  My new route starting in the gully to the right of "Fresno Flats" is called "Fuck The Rough Fire" (the name reflects the smoky conditions at Fresno Dome and in Fresno).  It was bolted on lead and done rope solo.  This is the reason for the two belay bolts at the start.  There is also a bolt stud that I could not use since the threads got stripped during the installation.  The climb is about 50 m long and has five lead protection bolts.  As you climb higher in this route, it trends to the right to avoid moving into "Fresno Flats", but ends up at the top of the second pitch of "Fresno Flats".  With a single 60 rope you can rappel from the end of the route into the gully about 60 feet above the start of the route.

I also found the 5.6 two pitch route to the left of my climb that you told me about.  It is quite a good route, especially the first pitch.  The short second pitch is a bit dirty with lichen.  What is the name of this climb again?

Mark Fletcher

[John]

Good to see you too, Mark and nice job on your new addition.

The climb you are asking about should be to the right of your new pitch as far as I could tell, unless you crossed it somehow. It is an Anderson family climb and called Xenophobia and it is officially 5.8. The one through the left-leaning roof a little uphill from where we last saw you? The only climb left is Fresno Flats AKA Wamello Rising as far as I know.

[DaveyTree]

Noice Mark! Nice going. What does your route go at. Like the name.

Haven't done Xenophobia either.

[Climberdude]

John,

Thank you for the information on "Xenophobia".  Yes, going over the roof is probably about 5.8.  Getting to the roof and going over it was pretty exciting.  The rock on the second pitch needs some cleaning on the holds since they are covered with black lichen.  The last bolt on the second pitch is fairly close to the "Fresno Flats" bolt and I accidentally clipped that bolt instead of the "Xenophobia" bolt, but then noticed the problem and when the correct way.  I did the second pitch of "Xenophobia" and the last pitch of "Fresno Flats", the 5.0 pitch, linked together with a single 60 m rope.

No, my climb "Fuck The Rough Fire" does not come anywhere close to "Xenophobia".  I was going somewhat close to "Fresno Flats" at the second bolt on the second pitch of "Fresno Flats", but when I saw the bolt, I purposely went right to steeper terrain where I put in a bolt and then straight up to the "Fresno Flats" belay.

I had thought that there would be more terrain between my route and "Fresno Flats" to put up an independent belay station, but then realized once I hit the "Fresno Flats" belay that "Fresno Flats" moves right throughout its pitches.  I do not think a climber on "Fresno Flats" second pitch will mistakenly go to the bolt on my climb since it is at the same height as the "Fresno Flats" but about 30-40 feet right of the "Fresno Flats" bolt.  If someone thinks this bolt location is a problem, I am willing to move the bolt or other action such as changing these bolts to glue-in types so people do not get confused.

BTW, the other bolts I put in are top belay rappel ring bolts on the climbs "Made In The Shade" and "Arch Direct".  These two good climbs which I have done many times ended in the middle of nowhere with poor belay protection possibilities.  There are cracks near the end, but they are all hollow and flexing.  One should be careful when climbing in this area because there are many thin poorly attached flakes above (mostly above) and near the end of the climb.  My rope caught one and pulled off a 2 foot diameter section last week.

Mark

[Climberdude]

Davey,

It goes at about 5.6 or possibly 5.7.  I did it on lead without pre-inspection so I had no idea from the bottom what it would be.  Let's do it and "Xenophobia" sometime.  "Xenophobia" is a really nice climb and takes a very interesting and not obvious from the bottom line on the first pitch.  Got your message and I also will be out of the country for a few weeks but back in October.

Mark

[John]

Does anyone know any details about the route to the left of Looking Glass? Gorgeous rock on the first pitch.

Did Friction Dandy. Sheesh! Pretty much a free solo.

[Climberdude]

Hopefully your topos will correct what to expect for "Friction Dandy".  Both Spencer's original topo and Mike's topo for this climb show the bolts approximately equally spaced.  They are not equally spaced as you noticed.  There is a crack in the upper section, but it is not in the easiest climbing.  I have tried it on lead, but gave up near the second bolt, down climbed to the first bolt, and was lowered off.  Did you you the crack out on the right on the second part for protection?  I only saw one possible good location for a nut in this crack.

[wingnut]

Does anyone know what the bolted climb is just to the left of Watership Down? I did the first pitch, felt like a 5.7. Looked like the climb continued up the buttress, but I didn't go further

[John]

Mark-
Friction Dandy was a surprisingly long 180' pitch and the last bolt was well below halfway up at about 70-80'. I saw the crack and felt that from the looks of it from below it looked harder to get to and was probably flared and might not have good gear. Instead I took the direct and more featured line a little to the left of it resulting in about a 100' runout. Sue inspected the crack on the second and found some iffy placements. I forgot to view it myself on the way back down. I would honestly recommend doing the runout over the steeper climbing to the crack with the crappy gear. Why increase the odds of falling for a mediocre placement?

Wingnut-
I too would like to know more about the climb left of Watership Down. From the anchor you can get to and continue up Rowsby Woof apparently.

[susan]

Actually, I found a couple of openings in that crack on Friction Dandy that at close inspection seems would take gear. Green and yellow aliens I thought. Maybe a nut. Would I want to fall on that gear? Not so much, but I think one placement in particular midway or higher up in that crack was really ok.  Personally, if I had to climb that first pitch, I would rather take the path of least resistance most the way except head towards the crack at one or two points for protection, then back left of it again over mellower ground than have climbed from the last bolt to the anchor with that much run out.

Also, though, yeah, much of that crack looks pretty nil for gear....

[DaveyTree]

Gotta have your head on for Friction Daddy.

The bolted route left of of Watership Down is only one pitch to the anchors. Not sure who put it up. I have done it then moved up left on Rowsby. Rowsby is a deeeep ow that you can't reach far enough in. You climb mainly the face and path of least resistance. Micro cracks and chickenheads for gear and anchors. The ledge toward the top gives you options for how you want to top out. Cruiser route depending g on your top out.

[susan]

Good to see you again Mark! Looked like you were having fun. Definitely feeling the name of your new line!

[John]

Does anyone know if the route on the short/narrow buttress between South Pillar and the Whiskey Bill area is complete? It looks like a project. There is some weird rope extension off of the anchor and some bolts below but unclear as to where the line starts. I would be interested in any info on it. Thanks!