Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information

[mike a]

hi john, i put up a new route on the cauliflower wall, it 510cish with 9 bolts to the anchors, 150', the crux move is at the first bolt, the pix you show here the green lichen corner on the left side of hawk dome, do you have a name and a rating for it?, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

Mike
What is the cauliflower wall?

I have never heard a name for the green corner....there it is, "Green Corner" is it's name! I thought it was 11a.

[mike a]

morning john thanks for the info, i posted a pix and topo of my new route on mountian project of the cauliflower wall, apple jack's , if you get a chance check  it out, happy climbing mike a, ps yesterday i checked out a couple routes above chicken slaughter and bird flue, they are pretty fun.

[splitclimber]

climbed fri and sat at fresno dome.  What a great area.  we managed to climb full days and only got hailed on for a bit at the top pitch of whiskey bill on Saturday.

I don't have the spencer guide.  We climbed a 5-6 bolt single pitch route on a dark slab just left of watership down.  Felt 9 or 10a, then toproped the plumb line with the lone bolt - hard 10. ?? 

what are the cool looking lines right of whiskey bill on the golden featured face?  Thought it was mule train at first, but...

Thanks mike and everyone else for posting beta.  Golden eye arête looks soooo cool. 

I've been on a westside dome climbing roll lately.  Whoo hoo.

We really wanted to clean up all the trash at the TH campsite, but it seemed it seemed like it would never end, then it rained and all the TP turned even more yucky. 

[DaveyTree]

Buggery on High Seas, Easy Wind, Everybody Wants a Piece, Mule Train, High and Mighty and Ghastly Gulch are right of Whiskey Bill. Vary from 5.7 - .10c

That bolted route between Rowsby Woof (the 400' OW crack just right of Looking Glass) and Watership Down shows at 5.8 but I felt a couple 5.9 steps in there. (I don't know the name for it.

Fresno Dome (Wamello) is an awesome place!!!

Tell me about the TH campsite. Is that the Trail Head area just north of where you park? People are always leaving their crap around. I hate it.

How did the trash look as you gain the rocky clearing before descending to the dome? The last time I was there I was climbing by moon light and all the staff from http://www.skylake.com/ were having a party. On the walk in they were partying and on the walk out they were sleeping, pissing, crying or f*cking beside the trail. Trash was everywhere. I was hoping they picked it up.

[susan]

Bummer about all the trash. Good on ya for the cleanup effort!

[mike a]

daveytree, you forgot some of the best routes on the south face, second honeymoon, for the grade could be the best route at fresno dome, and jerry's super fun 2 pitch route, poking popa bear, and last week i put up on the cauliflower wall on top of the south face, apple jack's, i am done with getting all the info i need to put out a new guide book for fresno dome/ wamello dome, i should have the book done and ready for sell by the end of this month. and yes golden eye arete is an awesome climb and all you southern yosemite climbers should check it out as well the other routes amy and i put up this season on the west face area, happy climbing mike a.

[DaveyTree]

I was going off an old drawn topo which doesn't have all the newer stuff on it. Tks Mike.

[splitclimber]

that route left of waterman down better be at least 5.9. 

there was no trash in the rocky clearing, just a lot at the trailhead camp site.  I don't want to profile, but..... it must have been hunters.  there was a clothing tag for a camo shirt, a broken old tent just left there, tons of TP, truck floor mats and a bunch of other random stuff.  Only picked up a small percentage of the crap.

[DaveyTree]

Watership Down looks like a cake walk from the ground. Book says 5.7 but that is a Royal Robins 5.7. I agree it was not in the same park as South Pillar 5.7. When I did it, the book was wet with moss from about 30' above the cave and had to run out the last 70'-80'. Not super hard but thinking of a pendulum into the book gave it some spice for sure. We had 2 x 2 parties and the second party bailed over at the cave to the bolted line to the right; Guides on a Snowbank 5.7-8ish.

[susan]

Could definitely see rating 5.9 for something Robbins et al rated 5.7, or many climbs put up long ago as 5.11 that were 5.9... never mind OW. Time and variety of people getting mileage on those lines will tell.

[DaveyTree]

Susan, I always try to make myself feel better by telling myself 5.10 was the hardest grade for the day so an old school 5.10 could be like a 5.13-14 so 5.7 could be 5.9-.11.

Then I realise I just need to train more and quit drinking beer......

[susan]

Hah... I hear yah.. never give up the good life! What would it be worth to train so hard only in the end o have no beer!?!

[mike a]

hi all, here's a couple routes some dude gave me a couple topos to that he said he put up some time ago, they are in between south pillar and whiskey bill, i have not done them, maybe youall have but thought i would share, happy climbing mike a.

[mike a]

here's more.