Author Topic: new route at fresno dome  (Read 12458 times)

mike a

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new route at fresno dome
« on: December 01, 2013, 07:13:02 pm »
hi all, hope you guy's had a great thanksgiving weekend, amy and i put up a new route at the west face area to the left of golden showers, it goes at 5.10a, 6 clips with a 2 bolt anchors at about 70' or so, on gold and red rock with classic shuteye jug plates, we did it ground up with my new bosch, i think it's super fun climb on pretty steep rock, maybe 3 stars, i am not hard core like you all with your hand drilling, i think if i hand drilled one route i think it would give me carpal-tunnel on my wrist :-), and my climbing career would be over!!! it was super fun putting up a new route after 13 years or so of not putting up routes outside, if anyone wants a look see on the route we put up, i will post some pix and topo on it, i will post it on the bucketphoto link here on the fresno dome area where i have posted topos and pix in the past, happy climbing mike a.

John

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2013, 10:32:55 pm »
Nice job Mike and thanks for sharing your route. Looking forward to hearing the name.

If you invested in a new Bosch it sounds like you are back in business putting up routes?

mungeclimber

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2013, 10:54:19 pm »
aren't the new litheon ion ones so light compared to the old ones?!

nice job. pics are always worthy!

I still need to get out to Fresno Dome.

susan

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2013, 09:40:32 am »
Good on ya Mike - three stars is great! Using a 3-, 4-, or 5-star system. I'll keep checking back for your photos on Photobucket.

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2013, 05:21:09 pm »
hi, i think i post it on photobucket on the faceook part of it.

susan

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2013, 12:29:31 pm »

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2013, 09:17:29 pm »
hi all, maybe john's new attachment option will work, ???

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2013, 10:34:56 am »
Amy and i put up another new route on gold finger wall at the west face area at fresno dome, it's a fun arete i think it's a 5.10c it's to the right of golden showers, the road was a little icy but no worries getting to the trail to hawk dome, still another week of sunny weather to climbup there.

John

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2013, 06:51:26 pm »
Nice Mike. We were wondering about Fresno Dome being accessible, so that is good to know.

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2014, 06:46:49 pm »
hi all, so amy and i last weekend put up another fun route at the gold finger wall area, we are calling it dr. no 5.7 crack, it's a fun clean crack to the right of golden eye arete, if you want to see what we be doing there the last few weeks i post all the new stuff on s.t., mountian project, and rockclimbing.com, and my fb, if the weather stays as is, we are going to put up some new stuff to the right of gold finger wall, which is the west side of south pillar, we are going to call it family guy wall, gigity gigity!!! this wall looks really really good, if youall get a chance and got some free time on your hands come climb what we already got set up, i think you will have fun on them, i hope we do not get the chance to put up new stuff with a weather change and the sierra gets a ton of snow and blocks the road until the new season starts, happy climbing mike a.

John

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2014, 08:23:28 am »
Thanks Mike. Have you had any company out there? 

Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2014, 03:02:21 pm »
Sorry Mike....not so new at all.......We used to climb that to get to the anchors of Golden Showers......We did not record it as we thought it had been done already.

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2014, 07:05:15 pm »
ok homie i saw your posting on summit post about your route which i like and btw, sweet lycra bro, but what route are you talking about to access it to climb g.s.???, if it's the the crack i am calling dr.no, why would climb that to get to g.s. when onyx is closer to your anchors??? and if you are saying you did it by way of what i am calling thunderbolt, and on thunderbolt the first pro (which would be a little scary) would have been about 45/50 feet off the ground on a 70/75 foot route, wouldn't you be a good enough climb to have done g.s. ground up???

mike a

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2014, 08:15:59 pm »
hey john, no we saw no other climbers in the last few months at fresno dome just amy and i and us putting up" tom slater routes" lol :-), so don't tell me about your new crag because i will go out there and bolt your route after you put it up and say "i got the first access" and call it a california FA, lol :-). people are super fun :-(, happy climbing cheers mike a.

Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun

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Re: new route at fresno dome
« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2014, 02:39:59 pm »
Hi Mike and thanks for the kind words.
I did not say anything about said Thunderbolt Route.
All I said was Bill Edmund and I did climb that little crack to gain the anchors to Golden Showers.
That is what happened. I am not trying to diss you or to rain on your parade.
I am not lying.
I also stated that it was such an obvious line that it had to have been climbed already.
Perhaps by Mark Spencer or someone?
That is why WE did not report it either.
And NO, we were not good enough then to do that Ground Up.
If you want to Claim that as an FA....then be my guest!
Cheers!!