Author Topic: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing  (Read 15001 times)

John

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Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« on: April 16, 2013, 06:57:35 am »
Some of the most interesting climbing I have done on the ridge has been wide crack climbing and would like to share some climbs and experiences that stand out.
Nearly every formation has something at least fist sized all the way up to giant expanses that are more like a gulley than a chimney. Some wide cracks don't need any special gear but others require home-made wooden chocks, Valley Giants, tube chocks or even, ironically, micro cams and RP's to comfort the leader when looking down at some potential falls that no one is really sure what happens if you do.
I do own a Valley Giant (it is a 9" size cam) and it opened up a new world that I wouldn't have been so enthusiastic about if I only used tubes, so I really encourage others to try one sometime. We honestly don't need it very often, but it is another specialized tool in the toolbox.
Minerva seems to have the most really good chimneys and OW's on a single formation and they are all unique.
There is Tail Feather, Sleeping Giant and Young Mans Fancy, all big, all within a hundred feet or so of each other, all outstanding.

Tail Feather




Sleeping Giant


Young Mans Fancy
(the climber is actually outside of YMF on "Middle-Aged Mans Fancy Dreams")



More later.........
« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 07:07:08 am by John »

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2013, 08:21:25 am »
Stunners

susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2013, 02:28:49 pm »
Climbers on Pink Balloon


susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2013, 02:52:25 pm »
Mojumbo - Not the best gear here but not the worst altogether


Screaming Demon?

« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 02:55:16 pm by susan »

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2013, 07:11:50 pm »
Gray Eagle

Gray Matters
(I haven't done it yet but it is on my short list for this year.)


Some Random Cracks
We did the left one but the right had a rattler guarding the start so we need to get back there.



More coming...

susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2013, 02:15:49 pm »
A view from another Jack Delk line

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2013, 04:35:02 pm »


Favorite crack pic so far.

They don't look so far apart that if a rattler was in one, that I would climb the other. Yowza!

susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2013, 05:33:26 pm »
Well, it was a hike to get there which might make ya more determined to try it. Hah... or less if wise.  It felt like a terrarium in the crack on the right, required more of a full body insertion, and into the dark... hard to see what lurked... so it gave us the willies. It looks so cool tho... would love to get back to it sometime. Maybe use headlamps to scope it better.

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2013, 07:31:02 am »
I have really come to appreciate Jack Delk and his choices of lines. He mostly went to the lines that you can most likely see from at least 50 miles away. We even named a newly-explored dome after him when we found ourselves going straight to the wide lines first.

He had also attempted just about everything wide that he ran across, including Sleeping Giant, Gray Matters, Breast Feather Left and I am sure more. More importantly, he shared a bunch of very detailed topos that still circulate to this day and are one of the few "public" records of the earlier climbing on Shuteye Ridge.

All of these are wide or wideish climbs that he did:

Nipple Bypass-Queens Throne
East Crack-High Eagle
Tail Feather-Minerva
Old Man's Dream-Minerva
Young Man's Fancy-Minerva
Red Dihedral-Red Eagle
Around the Corner-Gray Eagle
The Great Depression-Gray Eagle
Lightning Bolt-Gray Eagle
Kind of Neat-Eggs
South Chimney-Chiquito

Pretty cool.

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2013, 08:42:38 am »
Is he still climbing?

YETI

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2013, 04:09:38 pm »
This is one of the best threads EVAR!


susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2013, 04:23:35 pm »
We've never run across him, but Ger (tiki-ger) once did in recent years... just camping. After hearing of their interaction, and seeing his topos which are really drawn well with great care, and over time climbing his climbs, we developed an admiration for this person we've never met, and these climbs he has done out there. Haven't done them all yet but did a bunch.   
« Last Edit: April 18, 2013, 04:45:16 pm by susan »

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #12 on: April 18, 2013, 06:16:26 pm »
I can't recall, but I wonder if that was the guy that was at the Soda campground when I first climbed at Chiquito. Didn't get to talk to him, but either Matt S or his brother and maybe Ger were.

Hope he posts up and confirms.

NateD

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #13 on: April 18, 2013, 06:33:54 pm »
Yes, munge, that was actually the time Ger met and chatted with him - before heading up to Chiquito for that SSCA activity.

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2013, 06:46:32 pm »
Thx! Glad I got you guys to help me remember what happens at SE.

There was this other trip with margaritas and speed drilling contest. Lol