Author Topic: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing  (Read 15000 times)

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2013, 07:30:23 pm »
I can't recall, but I wonder if that was the guy that was at the Soda campground when I first climbed at Chiquito. Didn't get to talk to him, but either Matt S or his brother and maybe Ger were.

Hope he posts up and confirms.

That was totally where Ger met him and got him to sign his Spencer Guide!

If I saw Jack Delk at Soda Spring Campground I would totally start shrieking like a little girl at a Justin Bieber concert.

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #16 on: April 18, 2013, 07:45:24 pm »

Quote

That was totally where Ger met him and got him to sign his Spencer Guide!

If I saw Jack Delk at Soda Spring Campground I would totally start shrieking like a little girl at a Justin Bieber concert.


LOL!

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #17 on: April 28, 2013, 10:49:26 pm »


I do believe this is Mr. Delk, from that trip.

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2013, 10:59:21 pm »
Really? Was he OK with the Paperazzi? He must be used to them.

mungeclimber

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2013, 11:50:27 pm »
you know, I have no idea. I just knew there was this reverent conversation happening and I couldn't just walk up on it, so took a pic. In hindsight, glad I did.

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2013, 07:53:32 am »
Chihuahua Chimney on Queens Throne


John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2013, 06:59:47 am »
Sue on P1 of her new climb, "The Elf Boot". This pitch is really enjoyable for a chimney. No really.


susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2013, 02:33:03 pm »
Recognize this one?

daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2013, 06:32:12 pm »
What route did you do?

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #24 on: May 20, 2013, 07:31:57 pm »
That is Her Majesty's Crack in the photo. We also did the first three pitches of Macduff. Fun stuff.

susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #25 on: May 20, 2013, 08:10:52 pm »
A very fun spot - at the Queen's feet. I like the Macbeth references very much btw.

John

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2013, 07:01:44 pm »
Fistful of Doghairs on the Aerie:


YETI

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #27 on: June 05, 2013, 01:23:00 pm »
Dan-

I did that Crack line /Ow to hands route to the left of the wyde in the photo at QT.  Finishes with a bustamove out right on slab to the same anchor.

Really good, and deceptively hard looking from below.

That is one of your crew's additions correct?  Really good, 5.7 or so?

The upper pitches and that big ass left facing corner pitcher up high look stellar.


susan

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #28 on: June 05, 2013, 03:37:53 pm »
We sure maxed the cragging there that afternoon.  The 2nd pitch slab climb was really good too. 

daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Shuteye Ridge Wide Climbing
« Reply #29 on: June 06, 2013, 08:02:24 am »
We tried three starts at the middle base of Queen's Throne. The original on the left which Bob led and I simul-climbed with the pack which never makes me happy. We later put in anchors so you don't have to simul climb. The middle one we did on toprope. I though it was fun fingertips, went first without trouble and I think Bob weighted the rope - the first time I ever had less trouble on something than Bob. We did the wide thing too.


I have always thought the swooping corner up above was a striking feature. Two lines there: Banquo 10a and Fleance 10b. I am a weak, lazy, old, occasional climber and Bob has to lead anything beyond 5.9. I think the best thing we did in this area was figure out a descent from the top - down the gully and rap stations. (scroll the image right)


We tried the orange corner below Orange Bang but couldn't levitate over the bulge to do the start. Somebody might manage it but we couldn't get our feet off the ground. Orange Bang is the wide thing in the center, the corner bulge is just visible left of it.


That was all in July 2012. I had climbed there in 2009 with my friend Jay Kumar but don't recall where we started, probably the one marked original. 2009 is when I decided the Banquo line looked too cool to pass up. 2009:
« Last Edit: June 06, 2013, 08:11:18 am by danmerrick »