Susan,
Look up this link to the AAJ archives, 2007 to see a better photo topo of the upper northwest corner and to read more about The Crucible.
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2007/pg128-160_L48_aaj2007.pdf#search=%22balloon%20dome%22Here, I'll paste in Brandon Thau's write up (though I may get in copyright trouble):
"Balloon Dome, various ascents.
The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated from the bivy ledge atop pitch five, due to an early winter
storm. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I completed the remaining pitches during the following June in extreme heat. The route follows a natural line from
the San Joaquin River up to the bushy ledge that divides Balloon Dome in half. This line follows a prominent drainage originating from the middle section of the
dome, hence slippery rock from pitch three onward. The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral that is below and right of two parallel, splitter, wide cracks three pitches
up. The route then follows the left parallel crack (5.11 fuzzy off-width). Super-slick rock leads up to the base of a right-facing dihedral, which is on the skyline when viewing the route from the river. This dihedral is a mixture of thin A1 and 5.11a climbing for 180'. One more 200' pitch
ends the technical climbing, and 3rd and 4th class bushwhacking is required to get to the base
of the upper dome.
Northwest Ramp (5.10). This route follows the prominent right-leaning ramp up the
northwest face of upper Balloon Dome. Four 200' pitches reach the end of the ramp, then
two-and-a-half more lead up steep dihedrals to the summit. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder and
I completed this in June.
Beckey’s Leaning Tower Route – Free Dike Variation (IV 5.11+). This follows the excellent
Fred Beckey route to the top of the spire that leans against the east face of upper Balloon
Dome. From the top of the spire, rappel 50' and belay in the notch from two bolts. Instead of
climbing the A3 cracks above the notch, follow the dike that heads left and clip one bolt. Gain
the intersecting dike that heads right and clip seven more bolts to the belay (5.11+). Two more
pitches lead to the top. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I completed this in June."
Sean and Jake Jones likely did the first route from the river to the top, linking Into The Pit and Netherworld. Thau told me he was bummed Sean beat him to it. Don't know why the separate route names, but it sounds like a lot of 3rd and 4th class in between. Here's a link to his write up from 2006:
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2006/148_Lower48_aaj2006.pdf#search=%22balloon%20dome%22Boy, wish I could make it down (and up) there, but it's not looking good for me. Not much left to climb in that canyon.
