Shaver Lake

[DaveyTree]

This would include Cressman's Bluff, Miwovi Pluton(Shaver Dome), Musick Mtn(Yeti Dome), Dogma Dome, Book of Shadows.

Miwovi or Shaver Dome, as far as I know, was mostly developed by Chambers and Kroll. I am sure others have probably played a part as well. It is the Dome you see on the left while driving on 168 passing over Stevenson Creek coming out of Shaver's Dam with the climbing being on the south side. There are prob about 10-12 routes from 5.7/8 - .10b. If the creek is running hard then you have to approach on the north side of the creek where you scramble to the top and rap in or walk the base around to the south side. Low flow allows a walk in on the south side of the creek and jump across to the ledge. Almost all the climbs start from a ledge system that is directly over the creek or a 100' water fall. At times it can be difficult to communicate due to the noise. On the far climbers left is a route that you rap to a hanging belay over and beside the waterfall. Very airy and unique face climb. I have never seen anyone else there but have talked to a lot of people who climbed there.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Western_Sierra/Shaver_Lake/Wimovi_Pluton/

[NateD]

I stopped to walk around and check out Miwovi many years ago, thinking as it's roadside, somebody HAD to have climbed there. Looked short but fun, and at the time (17 years ago I reckon now), I didn't see any bolts, rap anchors or any evidence of climbers, except I think some chalk on a boulder up top. I've seen some pics of climbers (maybe Dave Daly and Shaver Local Eric? McGee on the belay ledge with the roaring river/waterfall below). Looked unique for sure.

[DaveyTree]

Yah. Not sure when the development started. The boulders on top are pretty good as well.

[DaveyTree]

Headed up to Dogma on 4/23. It has been about 10 yrs since I was there. It is a really nice spot with shaded belays full length 1p climbs. Climb up out of the trees and gain a great view of Musick Mtn to the west and Shake Lake. Fun day ending with a Luponic Distortion.

I was surprised there was no snow....none. I figure we would at least see it on the side of the road but nothing. Creeks were ripping. I believe the gate for Courtright should open within the next week or two.

[susan]

Luponic distortion? Something like a crazy amount of lupine flowers or? 


Yeah the creeks are ripping in Soyo and flowing down some roads... the snow is thick tho still at a certain 6ish elev. & up. Can't believe Courtwright could open soon!

[DaveyTree]

Not sure if the road all the way to Courtright would be open since they had a washout of half the road. Not sure if it has been fixed.

Luponic Distortion is a beer. A yummy one.

[susan]

Hah I could have googled that one but nice to hear it's a yummy beer to try sometime.

[donutnational]

The road is open to Wishon, I can't imagine the road to courtright will open any time soon as PG&E never seems in much of a hurry to get it open.

[DaveyTree]

I heard that today. I heard there is 8' of snow on the Courtright Road so who knows when they plan to plow.

[susan]

That sounds more about right 8' of snow at an elev. of about 8k. We were trudging over some snow last Sunday at about a 5,500k elev, and it was solid most places - only post-holed once. And now we're gonna get some More snow this weekend last i checked. Dang.

[mungeclimber]

Sweet! Wishon is on!

[mungeclimber]

Anyone seen pics of Stevenson Falls? There appears to be a shit ton of granite slabs in that area. Ebike-able to the bridge? 

[daniel banquo merrick]

Bob and I went back there in 2014. Cool place to explore. Also slabs along the river.
https://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/MDR/photos.html

[mungeclimber]

Outstanding! Thx for sharing!  The old pins look cool! Wonder about those now!

I'll probably hit Minarets before I head to Stevenson, but I'll keep it in the back pocket to explore.

[DaveyTree]

Stevenson’s Gorge has a ton of rock. The one time I ventured back there was when they were draining Shaver Lake to work on the dam. There was so much water coming down it almost blew us off the bridge. My buddy and I found a short wall next to one of the vent caves off the road and decided to clean it to try and put up some new routes. We didn’t realize all the vines we were tearing off were old poison oak. I ended up having to take two weeks off work for the poison oak I had from my ears to my ankles. Sucks to suck!

I do know there has been some development on the upper walls which you can not see from the road. You can park above them and rap or hike down from the Wagon Wheel road. Current closed from the fire, last I checked.

Paul Martzen put in a 5.10-11 (if I remember right) about 5-8 years ago that navigates the entire gorge, adventure route. I believe you climb up from the road on the right of the water, cross over to the left where the staring anchors are. It is like 10-14 pitches I believe. He asked me to go on the final push but I wasnt able to. Paul Amico and another guy assisted on the final FA. It goes all the way up the gorge on the left, crosses over toward the upper walls, then traverse to somewhere on the big slab on the right, to rap back down to the road. Def an all day event.