Tks Wingnut
Mike, not sure if you climbed Ger’s route. We TRd it during Lunesta. It is def not a 5.7. It starts with really thin moves off the ground at a black section of rock and another cruxy section higher. I haven’t climbed it since it was bolted but I remember thinking it had .10 cruxes.
Was up at Courtright area this weekend with Paulie and Joe. We were able to put up a 5p route on Locke Rock on the far left that starts beside a group of 3-4 short trees and goes up a layered right facing book at the start. Took the hand drill but luckily went all trad which is a good thing since we didn’t rope up until 1230 from the nights festivities. Night Train 5.6, 880’ gear to 3” with doubles of #2. Woolsey, Fries, Amico 8/22/20. Not my favorite route I have put up but pretty area and the dome is huge. We were looking for something easier on the north side of it hoping for shade and our 880’ was much less than starting from the area you see from the lake. No shade found since we got such a late start.
We were able to get out of smoke and had stars at night. We stayed at 4x4 Voyager Camp ground. Joe brother in-law had a HUGE jeep and dropped us at the Meadow below Locke. Rough drive but amazing what that thing can climb over. Cheating? We didn’t care and was glad not to have to walk out.
Of all the weekends, there was another crew putting up a new line we saw on the wall on the way in. Heard someone yell Brandon during their ascent and it turned out to be Brandon Thau, Vitaliy and another guy. I didn’t get the details of their route other than it is mid 5.11 called Locked and Loaded. Looked like an awesome line.
I am under the belief it is probably the first time that dome has seen two FAs in the same day.
Locke is so much bigger when at the base.
