South Pillar TR

[DG]

A little late on this TR. Went to Fresno Dome for the first time on May 2nd and had a blast!
Many thanks to John for info on the area!
Went up South Pillar. An absolute pleasure to romp up!

At the base:


Top of 1st pitch:


Start of 2nd pitch:


Pitches 3 & 4 (great fun on these!) :


Down climb across the notch to the start of pitch 3 (although it doesn't look like a down climb in this photo) :


Looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch (The views just kept getting better) :


Top of pitch 4! :


Can't wait to go back and check out more climbs there!
DG

[DaveyTree]

Tks for sharing. Love that climb. Such an under-appreciated dome.

From the looks of the pics it looks like you belayed the top of 1st pitch at the solo bolt in the giant dish. Were you on a 60m? I usually belay 30'40' below that on the little ledge made from the boulder outcropping.

[daniel banquo merrick]

Finest route in the western Sierra.

[susan]

I love the rock photos! Fresno Dome is a special place. Haven't seen it crowded there yet and really love looking back at the expanse of forest views as you climb higher. Glad you had a great time on South Pillar!

[mungeclimber]

I need to go there soon.

[mike a]

hi all, i will be that this weekend, and shuteye as will, if anyone wants to climb or check out the new fresno dome i will be there, happy climbing mike a.

[DG]

Hey DaveyTree,

Yep, belayed from the dish with the single bolt (using a 70m). The info I gathered described the first pitch as ending there. Pretty sure I remember the ledge you're talking about. Has a short vertical crack on the wall in front of it, that will take 1"-3" pieces? Definitely will be belaying from there instead, next time!

Anyone have route recommendations for next time? I'm thinking Whiskey Bill will be one of em.

DG

[John]

Stoked you got out there and better yet chose this as your first climb there. Can't lose on SP, its awesome.

Daveytree- I am curious why would you belay lower on P1?

[DaveyTree]

I usually belay above that crack your talking about. If you stay right of that crack there is an invisible right hand rail as you reach around onto the vertical face. Epic side pull with awesome exposure on that edge. It goes up to some large chickenheads where there is a ledge below some boulders. Move up about 8' to a smaller ledge/srance. This is where I usually belay. Sling the big wedged boulder to left and a red tricam in a pocket to the right.

I usually do this to avoid rope drag that starts to build about there. Second pitch goes to big ledge with the bolt as the first and usually only piece although I sometimes will place the monkeys fist between the bolt and the ledge because I love that thing.... I have taken a lot of people up it and like this spot because it gives me better communication with noobs when there is a good breeze.

Whiskey Bill is a great climb. Toward the end of the p3 you can stay against the book on left or veer out right taking cracks to anchors. Both are cool. You can stay left or right for the next pitch to anchors on big ledge. Last pitch you can go up by book on left, up the middle on a thin crack or layback the right side flake. There is a deep dish toward the top with anchors but many head up and sling the boulder on the flats with the rope to belay. Any way you go is fun stuff.

I really like Looking Glass which is the big left facing book you pass walking in. It is has a little bit of book, face, crack and an awesome bouldery top out on an over hanging short crack that takes a yellow BD cam that feels really hard until you figure out the moves and then is easy. There is also a cool spot to fish a nut in wire first after the lieback leaving lunch ledge. Great climb.

Watership Down is the first right book you come to and is two long pitches. Most people lieback it from what I read after but I climbed the p1 like a chimney. In that fashion it was brutal on me but the shaded belay cave on p1 was cool. The second pitch was easier but had to runout the last 70 or 80 feet because there was water and moss in the book that kept me out on the face.

Everything there is super fun. For steeper chickenheads routes head to Hawk Done which is like climbing in the gym. There are anchors for TR laps but you need to lead up to them. Think 5.8 is the easy way up. The upper two pitches are just as fun though.

I plan on doing Onyx next time I go since I have yet to climb that one and also hit up some more Mike A. routes to left of that. Hope to see you ya'll at Lunesta Fiesta and hit up South Pillar by full moon. It is too cool.

[mungeclimber]

Red Tricam John! You hear that?

[susan]

Great recommendations DT! LF sounds like a lot of fun!