Pics of the Balls

[John]

Jerry
I see now that the shot seems taken from pretty far away. Oh well, I guessed wrong.

Nate
Yes, Tiki is on the West side of Toad. Have you climbed any routes on the Toad? I could use some input if you have. Turns out that some are hard to decipher without climbing them.

[NateD]

John,
Susu says you might have done Sven and Jorgie (sp?). I too climbed that route, back in 2001 (same trip when I climbed Miranda), and never found the bolt and probably did a left variation on p.2, but no idea. It was nice being close to the exposed edge of the north face. I had no camera, but feel free to email me some pics and I might be able to remember and discern where I went. Haven't climbed any other routes on the formation, but as you know, unlike the others on the west side, the West Face route is the most distinctive and Scott Jett made a real cool video of it with a time lapse segment, here: http://vimeo.com/13816624

[John]

Nate
We tried to do Sven and Yorgie and it sounds like you probably did the same mistake we did. I went straight for the tree shown in the topo assuming that the rest would be clear, but found really mediocre pro for most of my pitch. I was climbing besides some great rock and Tiki actually got to climb it and loved it, but not me. Never saw the bolt either. I believe there was some guesswork about the line in the topo?

I have lots of photos at home I will try and remember to send you to show where you went.

That is a killer video. I like the manpris confessional at the end.

[larsj]

I've done Sven and Yorgie several times.  I always stayed near the left end of the West face where it meets the steeper N face.
Really was able to climb just about anywhere on the W face though.

lars

[John]

Did you ever see the bolt?

[larsj]

It was all natural pro last time I was up there.  I did see a locked strong box on the summit next to N face anchor bolts.  This was at least 5 years ago or more.

lars

[John]

On top, I counted 13 bolts in one area including the giant eye bolt. Nothing for rapping though. We walked off.

[larsj]

Yup, saw old bolts on top.  Not really any use for them.  Bolts on the W face?

lars

[John]

These were all newish, or at least seemed to be all 3/8". Above the North face

[NateD]

Those numerous bolts back from the edge are all put in by Summit Adventures of Bass Lake, for rappelling. The lock box is also theirs. There are other formations with these clusters of bolts.

Spencer shows one bolt on Sven and Yorgie, but I never saw it. I wouldn't say I made any mistake either, John, when what I climbed had pro and the topo is indeed vague. If you can climb a bunch of different ways and not get into trouble, how is it a mistake?  i don't recall poor rock quality either, but it has been awhile.

Would love to hear about some of your favorite climbs over the years at the Balls, Lars. I recall you said you've done Planet Granite.

[larsj]

Climbed most of the easier stuff Nate.  Always figured someone else was there before me.  Really like the Golden Toad and rambled over most of it.  Going up there with my son next week[first trip together in ten years] but now that he is grown he tells me that he isn't in to rock climbing. We'll just roam around some back waters.

lars

[larsj]

Here's some stuff from '91 scanned.  Dirt Doctors 5.7 on BoR:





Rainer Lambretch low on the route.



Rainer again, route goes through notch R of big roof to his L.

[NateD]

Cool stuff! Thanks! 

[susan]

Cool shots!

[YETI]

Great shots LArs!!1