Author Topic: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome  (Read 5372 times)

NateD

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New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« on: November 19, 2013, 12:38:35 pm »
You all are likely already aware of this one, but I didn't take notice of it until now, from the online AAJ, 2011, incorrectly categorized under Yosemite Valley:



"By Urmas Franosch

Disappearing Dome, Disappearing in Plain Sight.

In July Hunter Sibbald and I climbed a new route on Disappearing Dome in the Southern Yosemite area overlooking the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River. We called it Disappearing in Plain Sight (IV 5.11b). We climbed ground up, placing 18 bolts—including belay anchors—from natural stances, and completed the route in one day. The second pitch required aid (A1) to surmount a small roof. The next day we returned to climb a free variation that joins the original start at the top of the second pitch.

The climb starts on a dark gray exfoliation slab split down the middle by an “S” shaped chimney. This slab is located near the north end of the main east face, just south of the gully that defines the northeast face—home of Do It, Don’t Spew It (AAJ 2009). The slab is just to the right of a series of prominent right-facing, right-slanting corners.

The free variation starts with an awkward move (5.10a) left into the crack leading to the chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney, then climb right-facing corners to a sloping ledge on the left. The aid variation climbs the left edge of the slab, over a roof, to a bolted belay on the sloping ledge. From here the route goes up and slightly left (5.11b near the start of the third pitch) following shallow corners and amazing knobs to the top of the previously mentioned prominent corners. Two more pitches straight up, protected by a few bolts and some gear, lead to a line of bolts coming in from the left, which is followed two more pitches to the top. We climbed five new pitches before joining an existing route for another two. The climbing is spicy in places, but well protected in the hard sections. The rock quality is excellent."


Anyone know which route this links up with for the last few pitches?
« Last Edit: November 19, 2013, 12:45:40 pm by NateD »

YETI

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2013, 01:21:48 pm »
Hmmm, Cool find.

I wonder who did another big route over there and left it out of the AAJ?


Quote
lead to a line of bolts coming in from the left, which is followed two more pitches to the top

Shouldn't be that hard to find out, with 2 pitches of bolts somebody did some work up there.

Nothing like obscure route easter egg hunts.

wingnut

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2020, 11:36:11 am »
A couple of weeks ago my partner and I put up a new route on Disappearing Dome "Penny Perfect", 4 pitches, 5.10-.  We also climbed Jerry Anderson's route "Do it Don't Spew it".
Very nice climbing in a spectacular setting.

Here is the mountainproject link to our climb, hopefully someone else enjoys it as much as we did!

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118979448/penny-perfect

John

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2020, 01:45:19 pm »
Nice job!

susan

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2020, 08:23:28 pm »
Wow you guys I love it! This sounds and looks really beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

sneville

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2020, 04:23:36 pm »
wow!  Nice route.  I am surprised that splitter was never climbed! 

Sean

wingnut

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2020, 07:13:38 pm »
I'm surprised as well. I suspect people ignored it because it's not on the major big face of the dome.  The crack had some serious plants and root systems that needed to be removed in the lower part, but once it was cleaned up was perfect.

larsj

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2020, 07:51:04 am »
Splitter looks beautiful. Good job! -lars

splitclimber

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #8 on: September 02, 2020, 06:22:33 pm »

John

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2020, 06:17:52 am »
There is already a route through what is essentially that same line. I haven't done it myself but it must share most of the same pitches and it looks like they took a different P5 path. I am surprised that someone thought that was unclimbed, or perhaps they did suspect it (?), at least they didn't bolt it.

Peregrine Song - 5.9 FA: Pete Cassam, Steve Canavero 7/1993

Here are some simple photo overlays from Cassam:



« Last Edit: September 03, 2020, 09:47:14 am by John »

aerocooper

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2020, 02:36:03 pm »
Hi John, thanks for the pics of Peregrine Song. I'm the one who climbed/posted that new route. We thought it seemed very obvious and probably had been climbed as we approached, but couldn't find any history of the route after searching after the fact. Confirmed that we didn't bolt anything because we couldn't be sure what was new and what had been climbed.

Definitely a great example of Cunningham's Law though! "The best way to get the right answer on the internet is not to ask a question; it's to post the wrong answer." I'll modify the posting on MP to show Peregrine Song instead, and maybe just keep Pitch 2 and Pitch 5 as variations.
« Last Edit: September 03, 2020, 02:43:09 pm by aerocooper »

John

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2020, 06:31:18 am »
Hi aerocooper
Way to just go for it, that line looks like an adventure climb from the base. I really appreciate that you didn't feel the need to mark it with unnecessary bolts and anchors like so many people do these days. Nice job!

mungeclimber

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Re: New Route(s) on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #12 on: September 06, 2020, 09:43:07 pm »
looks cool