Pics of the Balls

[John]

Nice, Lars! Thanks for sharing.

Nate

Spencer shows one bolt on Sven and Yorgie, but I never saw it. I wouldn't say I made any mistake either, John, when what I climbed had pro and the topo is indeed vague. If you can climb a bunch of different ways and not get into trouble, how is it a mistake?  i don't recall poor rock quality either, but it has been awhile.

Climbs where there are several lines you can take are normally fun unless there is a "wrong" line, and when I say wrong I mean dangerous for any number of possible reasons. I felt that I found a wrong line with poor gear and a really crappy patch of rock that was like crumbly chalk, right above the tree and threatening to break off and hit people below from passing it. Several of the gear placements there and above were cracks in the extreme ends of what I would describe as "fins" that are sometimes long enough that they can flex or break if a cam levers them apart if placed near their ends.

The reason that I am bringing this up is that there is more than likely a perfectly fine version that people will enjoy but the "correct" path would need to be describable and that is kinda tricky at this point. We may each be describing our own lines we took or even the same one, hard to tell. I normally don't think much about these issues other than a friendly warning here and there but the rating of the climb and others in the area are attractive to the new leader and may be better served with a warning.

[NateD]

I see your point, John. I don't recall crossing any marginal rock like you experienced, and it seems like if I did, combined with the lack of good pro, it would have been etched into my memory due to fear. It's unfortunate IMO, but I reckon most of us remember more the times when we were sketched/worried on a climb than when we were cruising along having a great time. Hence, the strange love/hate relationship with runouts...

[susan]

This photo will straighten up when it feels like it. All I can do is orient for portrait in Photobucket, which I did, then wait for it to catchup here.

This shot shows John at the top of pitch 1 when looking for Sven & Jorgie. It shows the veg at the right where there is a long tree root to some scrappy foilage where the rock turns most sketch. Tapping away though I did, I suddenly found all my fours in contact with a large patch of rock that could cut loose. Not difficult to avoid this patch, but also too easy not to pay it any mind. 

The next pitch was much cleaner and also fun. Here's a shot of the beginning of it.

[larsj]

Looks familiar Sue.  I don't remember any loose stuff though.

lars

[NateD]

Roger made a keen observation that in this light, from this angle, The Golden Toad right side and Tempest Dome sure look like Gnome Domes. Methinks they even have a little baby between them.

[mungeclimber]

[Dingus]

Jerry and Rob


DMT