Author Topic: Mystery Climbs  (Read 2126 times)

John

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Mystery Climbs
« on: May 10, 2013, 07:38:15 am »
A Mystery Climb is a written description, topo, random photo, bar napkin, interpretive dance, cave drawing, etc. that has existed through the years but for some reason, no one can figure out where the hell the climb is. They are frustrating, but are kind of fun to mull over every once in a while and perhaps check one off the list.

They usually lack some key valuable detail like a rating, name, or what formation they are on so if they were deciphered, they aren't that useful to have except for historical reasons and for fun, like how a puzzle is fun.

My take on most of these are: they were at the time worth documenting but not necessarily worth following up on as far as making sure that the world knows about them so they are unlikely to be classics.

Here are some examples for fun......

John

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2013, 07:40:06 am »
"Nice and Easy"- Jack Delk topo.
This one is the best examples of a lot of detailed info but can't quite figure out where the heck it is. I haven't looked too hard either. I figure it is pretty close to Lost Eagle and seems to be on the creek.

BTW, please let me know if you find it.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2013, 07:50:19 am by John »

mungeclimber

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2013, 08:04:58 am »
the description seems pretty straight forward. follow w fork chiquito creek til it basically peeters out, look for dome. find obvious crack and trough.

well that was easy.


;)

John

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2013, 08:09:39 am »
I look forward to your photos and trip report.

John

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2013, 08:14:31 am »
This one was in Royal Robbins' stack of "what the heck are these?" that were handed over to Mark Spencer when he did his guide.

I think it is on Red Eagle.

P1. 5.7 - South of the brushy gulley, and in front of the butt ress is a large boulder. From the notch
between the boulder and the face, undercling and layback left -facing fl akes 50 feet to the ledge.
P2. 5.8 - Climb the face left of the left -most corner off the ledge for 20 feet. Step into the corner,
undercling and layback the left -most fl ake to its top. Climb to the base of a straight-in crack. – 80’
P3. 5.7 - Face climb left and then up and left to a left -facing fl ake forming a chimney. From the top
of the fl ake, move left above the ceiling to an easy crack. Belay on knobs. – 150’
P4/5. Easy 5th class to top.Ben Metzler, Roger Breedlove, Barney Nielson 8/25/75

mungeclimber

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2013, 09:53:57 am »
er, I um, well, uh...   :o

susan

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Re: Mystery Climbs
« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2013, 10:03:15 am »
Does anyone know anything about the one we for now call "Streak of Intrigue" on Big Sleep? There are two bolts in the first pitch and then a small ledge right out of which grows what we and a couple of friends refer to as Mr. Miagi's tree (a small pine weathered into a bonsai).  We followed the left more attractive of the streaks up which had meager but decent protection. No other fixed pro to the top except we did find the one Gumbies bolt we couldn't find when we climbed Gumbies. It was by a huge slightly concave band of quartz high up - the namesake for that climb. This streak involved very enjoyable climbing through a few varied and intriguing features.