Tips and Tricks

[DaveyTree]

I love learning new tricks of the trade from knots to trick placements to carrying drill on lead. Figured some of you will have some cool new things to teach.

here are a couple new to me.

1. Rams Horns. I had never seen these before a guy down south posted on FB asked what people thought about them. I guess they are popular in some areas. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111573076/rams-horn-rappel-anchor-on-vegetarierkante

2. I spent the last few climbing trips up at the Boneyard. A couple locals FA royalty Kroll and Chambers had found the area and put in some routes last year. On one of the anchors they had placed plated quick links on stainless hangers. I have always tried to avoid this for the fear of the rust factor of two metals by using stainle$$ or rap hangers. On their anchor they had threaded the quick link through a short piece of tubular webbing which acted as an insulator between the plated and stainless metals. GENIUS! I for one will be using this.

[mungeclimber]

Not a fan of the ram horns. It's like a set of cold shuts. They'll wear out eventually and need to be replaced. It's easier to replace screw gates than it is to replace an expensive piece of stainless like that.

I've been partial to the quality of the Metolius screw gate links. Machining is good on them.


Nice idea on the webbing. I probably won't since I'm using Fixe Hangers which are really thick and the minimal contact between the hanger and screw gates seems to create only nominal corrosion. But I could be wrong over a longer horizon of time?

[DaveyTree]

Started using a plastic ice screw biner for my drill. I can slide it behind my rear gear loop and added a rap ring where the tether attaches to the drill to clip to the biner. Keeps it out of the way, rides higher up and adds next to no weight than usual.

Tried it out on Friday and worked like a charm.

[Defalco]

Started using these affordable male enhancement pills and a plastic ice screw biner for my drill. I can slide it behind my rear gear loop and added a rap ring where the tether attaches to the drill to clip to the biner. Keeps it out of the way, rides higher up and adds next to no weight than usual.

Tried it out on Friday and worked like a charm.

Sounds great. I'm going to try the plastic ice screw biner the first chance I get too if it's that much more practical. Cheers!

[DaveyTree]

https://northeastalpinestart.com/2016/05/23/petzl-connect-adjust-review/

Anyone use this or tried it? Swanson had one at Lunesta Fiesta and really liked it. Seems like it would be great if all the anchors were bolted. I usually just use the rope but also have a sling with a knot in the middle as a PAS and to extend my ATC if needed.

It seems it would be quite useful when FA'ing and needed to hook something to drill. The adjustment pull is near the end and would quickly allow you to place a hook and tighten.

[mungeclimber]

Kev has used them. Maybe he’ll chime in here.

You have to unload the weight to adjust it. Just different from say Yates adjustable daisy.