Chilkoot

[mungeclimber]

It looks like Chilkoot access is subject to Beasore Rd access, and that if we get a good snow, Beasore will be impassable.

So, e.g. this weekend Chilkoot looks accessible, but come President's weekend, we might not be able to get in there.

Sound right?


-sorry for dumb questions. Still learning all the ins and outs of which roads are which and when. thx!

[EWalden]

Hey newbie to the site here. Born and raised in the area and currently live in cedar valley. 
Anyways, I drove up Skyranch up to Cold about a week and a half ago. Very accessible. You could probably even make it with two wheel drive and maybe chains.   There was lots of traffic coming up from Beasore as well.  \
We're gonna try and make it up to Queens Throne on Sat. and maybe Chilkoot Sunday.
Hope this helps,

E

[mungeclimber]

cool

[central] Camp gate was locked this last weekend

[John]

Welcome  to the site, EWalden! Thanks for the update. I am most interested in if you get to Queens Throne. Central Camp rd. was closed on the Rd 274 end last weekend but didn't have the time to check the Beasore side.

We would love to hear about if you break through. The roads are soooooo dry it is wrong to have the gates locked! I bet Chilkoot is a sure thing from what we have seen. I am pretty sure one could get to Minarets via Beasore but not interested in another dead-end recon mission.

[NateD]

Welcome, EWalden. Climb much in the region years ago?

Chilkoot has a cool vibe, with all the small crags and boulders scattered about semi-hidden in the trees. Astonishing it's still open this time of year.

[Dave]

More of a question for Nate and Jerry A.... 

After going to Hidden Eagle with Ger a few months back, we had the pleasure of getting on 'Requisite Blindfold' (needs a bolt or two to drop the "X" factor , we scampered off from the top and over to the right of Hidden to a small formation we ended up calling The  Chewbacca Wall. Ended up TRing 3 lines (l to r: 'Han Can't Solo' .10b, 'Wandering Wookie' 5.8, and 'Chewy' 5.7). We intend on coming back a putting in some fixed pro. It wasn't until I took a look at Grahm's book did it appear that the wall was ID'd as Black Recluse Wall (Pg 79). But the photo topo (Pg 84) he put on the very next page doesn't match up. As far as I can remember, Black Recluse Wall is further right past the gully, right of Hidden Eagle. Jerry? Nate?

[Dave]

Also soloed a route on the left side of the wall. Starts on top of the large feature separated from the wall and climbs an obvious Runnel with positive features to the top (50') called 'Wookie Pedia' (5.6).

[NateD]

Yes, Dave, Black Recluse I recall is not marked correctly in the sat. image in the guide. It is further right and kinda below where I gather you guys climbed. It drops just at the margin of the trees.

Requisite Blindfold was one of those routes where Rog. sent me up without a drill (which I certainly prefer), and I also reasoned it had possibly been climbed before. Get's kinda blank up there for a long ways, despite the easier climbing. Seems we need to revisit it, but kinda glad we all had a shared experience, nobody died, and there's hopefully no ill will. 

Get any pics of Chewbacca Wall?

[Dave]

Sadly no. Too busy tending to my son since he wasn't all that into bushwhacking. But Tiki can vouche for me on the FA's. Gonna go back in the late fall for round 2.

[Dave]

How did you come up with the possibility that RB was done before?

[NateD]

How did you come up with the possibility that RB was done before?

Due to an obvious trad start. I never rule it out, esp. having heard that other climbers had played in the Chilkoot region for years (old TR anchors on small formations near the lake, stories from Leo about local guys he met who roamed the area, like Kinley Adams who played on the Magic Wall, etc.)

[susan]

What lines has Kinley Adams for sure done? Sure like the name. When was he climbing out there? Any story about him?

[NateD]

Susu - "for sure done" is hard to pin down, but this post from awhile back is about the extent of my knowledge about his activity: http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=113.0

He also climbed the prominent natural line at the dome Slater called Doggy, but is not claiming an FA there either. (this was shared on Tom's TR on ST).

I need to reconnect.