Seeking Route Information - Balls

[John]

Please contact me through the site or at john at southernyosemiteclimbing dot com if you have information on any of these routes.

Thank you.

Nightwatch
Old route in face right of Arch-A-Poko/Half Baked and left of Left Ski Track

Tempest
All natural line left of Glee. Old P1 bolted anchor was replaced and integrated into modern route coming in from further left.
Bolted route immediately left of Odyssey ~5.9/10-
Bolted route immediately left of Plate Route ?
Bolted route right of Havana Ball ~5.8

More later.....

[mungeclimber]

having now driven close to these formations. I would love to hear any stories and see any pics for these areas.

I know Aaron is holding. I'm sure cruxluv has pics too.

[NateD]

Many formations with differing character - some sorta on the DL and others not so much - but all in plain site and climbed and guided all over since the 60s and maybe earlier. Love it up there.

It's kinda magical that at an area so close to the road, I have next to never run into other climbers. For this reason, and remarkably little shared online for years, I think the Balls have long maintained a bit of mystique.
Kinda hope that doesn't change too much.

[mungeclimber]

really neat spot. We passed some guys eyeballing the formations. They had some kind of guidebook that I didn't recognize. Figured they might be climbers, so rolled down the window and said hi, but had to keep moving with the caravan since I didn't know where I was driving to.

I might go up there next weekend, now that I think about it. Need to make sure it's kosher with the old lady first.

I have the Spencer guide. That should get me lost enough to have a good time.

[DaveyTree]

Since Shuteye guide is out I would imagine very few would pass Shuteye unless they wanted some FAs

[NateD]

Since Shuteye guide is out I would imagine very few would pass Shuteye unless they wanted some FAs

My opinion is that at this point, there are pretty slim pickings for FAs at the Balls. Much has been done in the last decade. A plethora of routes exist, old and newer, that seldom see ascents.

[mungeclimber]

Nate, can you post up the updates on routes or forward them?

[NateD]

John is your man. He's likely got a much better compilation and list for the majority of formations. I have a smattering of topos and notes by different folks, not yet compiled in any organized manner.

But you'll take a lot of the fun and adventure out of it by going there with a lot of info in hand instead of just looking at what appeals to your eye and climbing it.

[mungeclimber]

there are pretty slim pickings for FAs at the Balls

 

[jeff]

Or not

[mungeclimber]

Hahaha

[DaveyTree]

My precious.....(in my shmeagle voice)

[susan]

That's funny. Smeagle. And it makes another good eagle name for a route.

[mungeclimber]

no more Eagle names!!! 

[NateD]

 

Just one teeny tiny opinion....

from a cave deep under the mountain.

"Wicked, tricksy, false!"