Author Topic: Seeking Route Information - Balls  (Read 11194 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2014, 03:18:55 pm »
lol   ;D

susan

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« Last Edit: July 16, 2014, 10:40:28 pm by susan »

splitclimber

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #17 on: July 01, 2020, 10:11:32 am »
climbed this silly little 5.4 a month ago on our way up to the right side of golden toad looking for the arch route.
photo: NateD


« Last Edit: July 01, 2020, 10:15:03 am by splitclimber »

DaveyTree

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #18 on: July 01, 2020, 11:58:05 am »
Split, was this new? I don't know if I could ID the line from your detailed pic. Ha!

Did you find Arch Route? Looked pretty dirty going up under the arch.

splitclimber

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2020, 02:46:54 pm »
Probably been climbed or solo'ed before.  After this "approach" climb we went over the right side of golden toad looking for the arch route, actually started climbing an unknown line that I'm glad we bailed from as it was slab with no bolts in sight, but looked like a cool line up the formation. 

Then we went farther left and found the arch route.  Didn't climb it as it did look dirty and not a obvious line.

some killer boulders up in that zone.


NateD

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2020, 07:43:03 pm »
That brings back memories of exploring over there 25 years ago with my wife one afternoon. I climbed up protectable stuff left of the arch (maybe around a corner), but backed down after about 60 ft. Never went back to look further. I don't recall boulders though, but I didn't boulder much back then at all, so I had eyes only for bigger rocks I suppose.

susan

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #21 on: July 06, 2020, 10:50:53 pm »
Well as luck would have it, I’d have posted closerup  photos of the area as I took some shots of it last weekend, but the camera”s gone missing! So bummed! Anyway, There’s this whole sort of cratered-out, triangular recess  on the south southeast face of GT which has discontinuous cracks, large and sometimes very steep plated blocks full of chicken heads. I wonder if this is the area of your climb drawn on that photo of Nate’s? Or are you referring more to the southernmost face? We did Eye of the Needle ( name?) once and I enjoyed it though entailed mostly lower angle slab hiking while not eating up the gear (mellow still), after the area of the ‘eye’ climbing which I liked best. Anyway just curious what you did...
« Last Edit: July 06, 2020, 10:54:06 pm by susan »

splitclimber

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2020, 11:40:28 am »
this route is on a separate side flank of the toad.  If my wife took a pic of the route, i'll post it.

You top out near these boulders


and look left over to the right flank of the toad


here is the start of the arch route, which is more towards the left side of west face.

DaveyTree

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #23 on: July 07, 2020, 02:33:27 pm »
That is definitely the arch...dirty. That right flank picture looks awesome not to mention those boulders.

The ledge just left, like 10', of the arch is pretty big, you could camp up there. On the far left side of the ledge is where 1,000' of Hangerover starts. Goes up and protects in some short crack features before moving left to a book of sorts with some brush in it before topping out on to the big ramp. Then it is mostly long easy slab stuff to eventually finding a hand crack where it steepens again going up right of the arch and left of the gold face. Crack ends into a sea of chicken heads for easy climbing. It is all trad for 5P and a cruiser 5.6 I believe. Paulie and I did it after we got to the base of the arch and didn't like how dirty it looked, last year I think.

larsj

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Re: Seeking Route Information - Balls
« Reply #24 on: July 10, 2020, 08:49:44 am »
I climbed all over that area many years ago. I have a photo of my wife following somewhere in my pile of photos at my studio. I remember her having trouble following a bomb bay chimney that went under the 'arch' . Dirty...probably 5.5 or 5.6-lars