Soyo for the 4th of July Weekend?

[John]

Serious mutiny this weekend due to heat. Lots of swimming.

We have only like a dozen climbing photos and the rest are of swimming and drinking!

[mike a]

one of the places amy and i checked out was dreamscape domes, to check out slaters so called "best 5.8 at shuteye, dreaming in colors," ok first think it's not the best 5.8 at shuteye, and if you do not access it from the top, you will not be psyched, no trail to the base, and looking at the old write up in rock&ice on shuteye july 1990, while the valley boys sleep, the route had all ready been done, and they call it a 5.7, with no name, so strike 2 on slater, so i hope he does not think he got the fa on that, but holy cow he had that climb and the afternoon nap route as well plasted in 2 mags in the summer of 2010, like they were the best thing this side of slice bread, i have been to dreamscape a couple times before, and still a bit tuff to find the best way to get there with out bush whacking, i think even when grahm's book comes out next month, climbers are not going to go to places like dreamscape, because unless you have been there before it's super hard to find it, just the way i like it! :-), it was a hot week at southern yosemite, but we did more hiking and climbing then partying and drinking, cheers mike a.

[John]

.....climbers are not going to go to places like dreamscape, because unless you have been there before it's super hard to find it, just the way i like it! :-)

I am curious where you think people will go, Mike. As you know it is a very current topic by the campfires lately.

[mike a]

morning, i think they will go to the easiest place to get to the climbs, like high eagle, shangir-la, chiquito dome, chilkoot, the big sleep, crocodile rock, places like that where it's not as tuff to find and get there, but still, most of the newer climbers want someone to hold there hand and show them the way to the climbs first before they go up there thats what i think, i am psyched in some ways to see what grahmy's got to say about what he has been doing the past 6 years up there, but on the other hand, amy and i love hearing about new stuff and going and finding it on our own, i am a little choked on slater for not shareing info with me, and never getting back with me on e-mail i sent him, but last year when he wanted info from me to help with the new book, he had no problem e-mailing me then :-(, and in his 2 write ups on shuteye in the summer of 2010, he made no mention that i had a guide book to shuteye, i think with the new book some people will come out and check it out, one or two times, but after that, they will think, that it's a lot of work to find the routes,a nd that t-meadows and the valley is much easyer to find stuff, and the climbing is better, people always seem to want to go where they see other other people, i am sure you have seen it before, you are the only ones at a crag and every thing is wide open to climb, but they will come up where you climbing, and start climbing right next to you :-(, so i think all and all, shuteye will remain it's sleep old self, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

I guess the next debate is the definition of "easy to get to" for most folks.

[susan]

Hi Mike, Do you have that article still? Would love to see a readable photo posted of it sometime. Maybe I'll be able to dig it up though.
Good info to access that climb from the top. Good on ya for all the climbing you guys got in despite the heat. 

[YETI]

Slater is really good at bringing attention to the forgotten gems of Soyo..

I like your attitude Mike, and feel the same.  I am a wanker, but like the easy stuff, and the hikes to find them.

[mungeclimber]

This article?

 http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/


Pictures aren't loading for me currently.

[mike a]

good afternoon, i sure do, amy and i
were looking at it last night, i showed her that dreaming in colors was done at least 24 years ago, it shows that some of the routes out there were already put up years ago, like all those fun sport routes on high eagle went with natural pro, before the mac divet's put them up as sport climbs, i was thinking of putting up some bolted routes back in the day on that wall at high eagle, but i could see from the write up in the rock & ice mag someone was already there so i went to the aerie to slap up a route, but thats the way it goes at the southern yosemite area, a ton of california fa's :-) lol, no one want to tell anyone, because they think they are the only ones out there :-) it's all a big secret!!!, amy and i were talking about scanning them and putting them on st, so some time this week i will hook you up with them, only if you keep it a secret lol :-) happy climbing mike a.

[mike a]

hi all, yes that is one of them, but he did one in the sierra mag as well, with some stuff grahm did as well. cheers arechiga.

[NateD]

amy and i were talking about scanning them and putting them on st, so some time this week i will hook you up with them, only if you keep it a secret lol

Mike,
If you've got original topos of trad climbs done on High Eagle, Dreamscape, or wherever, that weren't covered by Vernon back in the day, sure, we'd love to seem 'em here on this forum.

[YETI]

Yeah, save those Bombs for supertopo when the guidebook comes out, they will do more damage that way.

[mike a]

good afternoon, sure i can do that, i think the write up was by greg vernon, for sure who did the write up was one of the 3 people who wrote the old kings canyon/sequoia guide book 1993, i will scan it so youall can have a look see, cheers mike a.

[NateD]

Cool, thanks. Many of us have it, but others may not. I believe you are referring to Vernon's article "While the Valley Boys Slept".
Fun stuff, climbing history... and the frequent lack thereof when it comes to obscurities...

[mike a]

hi josh, gosh i did not think you were so cynical lol :-), ok youall, it's not chiseling, it's enhansing the hold lol :-), cheers mike a.