I finally ventured out to Nightwatch and climbed a number of routes on the main steeper face. I climbed what I thought I was Left Ski track, (the left water runnel of the 2 obvious runnels on the rightish side of the steeper main face). The climb has been fully bolted and is a full on sport climb for 2 pitches. Climbing into the water runnel off the ledge was tough, I though maybe 5.11- for about 15 feet and then somewhat sustained 5.10 climbing for several more bolts before the difficulties eased.
Its honestly mind boggling to imagine doing that pitch with no bolts as Tom Higgins must have. He also described it as having one 5.9 or 5.10 move, My question for the SoY sages is
1) Was Tom Higgins just that big of a bad ass that he described 5.11R as one move of 5.9 and did that thing with no pro?
or
2) Is left ski track actually the solitary water runnel in the center of the face which looks more moderate?
or
3) Is the move actually 5.9 and I am just way more out of shape than I thought?