Author Topic: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome  (Read 25621 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #30 on: June 02, 2013, 10:58:01 pm »
Nate, true words.

Even when routes get into a print publication, some stuff is wildly unobvious.

Sometimes it's the photos that draw attention.

Sometimes the merest suggestion of a brushthwack will leave some at the crags close to the road.

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #31 on: June 03, 2013, 02:14:08 pm »
Aaron, Thanks!

Though what happens at Disappearing stays at Disappearing. Quid pro quo?
Ahh, just kid'n. :)

It IS a bit of a hike out to the base if you park where you maybe parked for Balloon, but also very do-able. One to 1-1/2 hours??? Depending... John?

Ouch!  OK I deserved that! I will post up on Balloon and Courtright.

susan

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #32 on: June 03, 2013, 02:47:24 pm »
Aaron, I really was just play'n, vollying one back at you. There's no tit-for-tat. Please don't feel pressured to divulge anything you or your partners rather not.

Am curious how was it at Courtright?

YETI

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #33 on: June 03, 2013, 10:33:51 pm »
HOT DAMN!

this thread has leggs up to the armpits...

Bravo on the adventure J + S!  That route looks stellar, yet a touch out of my zone.

Stephen, great to hear your stories about your new routing, that is what I like the most in climbing....


The History.

New to drilling and putting up Memphis on stance....Whoa!

Hope to meet up with everybody soon!

Stephen M

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #34 on: June 07, 2013, 09:29:19 pm »
I found the original Easy Wind topo and it has the Zephyr topo with it. I couldn't decide if Easy Wind was 5.8 or 5.9, probably 5.9.
For Zephyr, my wife went on the long, tiring, hot hike to the base. Then she sat patiently in the sun belaying me placing bolts and on the 3 foot wide, weird undercling. Eventually, as I was feeling sorry for her, said she was too hot to climb and to just leave her there to eat fried marmots...
I figured it wouldn't be too hard at the end of the undercling, but I was tired and the climbing was awkward. If I'd had a #4 or #5 friend, it would have been fine. I finally wormed my way into a place I could place some protection and finished the climb.

NateD

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #35 on: June 07, 2013, 10:00:18 pm »
Fried marmot, eh?
Love it!! It really can get excruciating on hot rock in the sun.
Can you scan and share the topo?

Stephen M

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #36 on: June 07, 2013, 10:28:20 pm »
What is the best way to post photos or a photo of the topo? I attached it and that's how it came out.

Stephen

daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #37 on: June 08, 2013, 11:57:32 am »
John discusses posting photos here:
http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=26.0

The topo you posted is pretty small and hard to read even when I download the original. A bigger image would be much appreciated.


Stephen M

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #38 on: June 08, 2013, 02:07:16 pm »


I loved the Marmot cookbook image. Let's see if my pasting in from photobucket with a larger image works.

Stephen

Stephen M

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #39 on: June 10, 2013, 01:18:23 am »

Easy Wind is on the flake on the upper tier in the center. My topo shows the 5.8 after getting out of the chimney and thus there is some pro. The topo copied into the Spencer guide might make you think the 5.8 is in the chimney. Zephyr is to the left. To the fairly far right is a two pitch unnamed route that Jacob Miller and I did about 2 years ago. It follows thin cracks to the little bush at the far right of the yellow and grey roof. Unnamed is ok, but Zephyr and Easy Wind are better.

John

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #40 on: June 10, 2013, 09:28:02 pm »
Many of those trees look more like bushes in that photo and alters the scale of it all. That is a lot of rock right there.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2013, 09:29:49 pm by John »

Stephen M

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #41 on: June 11, 2013, 01:36:05 am »
Knockin' on Heaven's Door topos are on the Disappearing Dome pics thread.

susan

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Re: Memphis Blues on Disappearing Dome
« Reply #42 on: June 11, 2013, 12:35:33 pm »
"Fried marmot" and the marmot cookbook photo keep cracking me up.