Southeast Face

[Climberdude]

Yesterday I did the "Southeast Face" route (5.5) rope solo.  This is a very fun route.  If you start the cross country travel up to the saddle between the south peak and center peak from the trail at the west side of the creek, you will minimize the travel through thick brush.  I added rope to the lower two rappel anchors.  You can rappel down this route with three rappels with a single 70 m rope.  I saw Brad Young's recent summit journal entry for the "Nuts And Bolts" and "Northeast Face" routes.  I hope I can complete the "Northeast Face" route (I did the first pitch two weeks ago, but had the wrong topo and a too short rope) this year.

[mungeclimber]

Cool. I've wanted to get in there for awhile. What's the total hiking time and mileage?

[daniel banquo merrick]

I've gone up and down both the SE and NE routes. NE is more fun but they are both good. I've never done a day trip but it is certainly possible. I'd like to go back so let me know if you need a partner.

[Climberdude]

Munge,

The mileage is somewhere between 5 to 6 miles one way, including the cross country sections.  I timed going to both the "Northeast Face" route start and the "Southeast Face" start and both take me around 3 hours and 15 minutes.  I am a fast hiker.

[mungeclimber]

Gracias!

[Climberdude]

The approach is almost all downhill until you reach Illiloutte Creek, but is then uphill from there.  Clint's information on Supertopo is really helpful to avoid the thick bush.  If you are going to the West Face or Northeast Face, aim for the West Face and then work you way up close to the face.  If you do not stay close to the face as you go up, there is horrible thick and thorny bushes.

[splitclimber]

need to share many pics from the last couple months.  here are some teasers from our backpack trip the first of the month. 

We went in to climb Mt. Clark but punted after realizing the west approach is a real bitch.  So we moved camp out to Upper Merced Pass Lake and hiked Merced Peak, which was stupendous, then moved camp back to Clark/Grey Creek camp and climbed the southeast saddle on Starr King.  Fun and more interesting than I thought it would be but still way too short.  We summited the other Starr King peaks too and also Dome 7.  We got 4 domes in a day.

looking deep into SoYo backcountry walking off Merced Peak.  Banner/Ritter on far right


Approach along the east side.  pretty straight forward and you get to see a lot of rock this way


making the approach to the saddle a lot more interesting on "Starr Queen".  Merced Peak in the far background which we summited the day before in a 19 mile day


starting up the southeast saddle.  still got to actually rock climb on this one


looking at Starr King from Dome 7.  super cool hike to the top of this.  We stared at Dome 7 from camp, but didn't scope out any of Addison's routes because he told me they are all run-out 11's.   


I can't recommend a trip out here enough.  Beautiful area, great views and good rock.

[daniel banquo merrick]

I started a route on Dome 9 a few years ago, Got about 1 pitch up and two bolts in but have never been back.

[splitclimber]

Hey Dan,
I remember a little discussion and some of your pics of Dome 9.  That one is a ways out there.

I just edited my post because we were actually on Dome 7 , based on a numbered dome topo that I think you had made.  I knew when I wrote Dome 9, that is was probably the wrong dome number.

We did get good looks at Dome 9 through.  Dome 8 looked to have some potential too and a slab to the east of it.

[mungeclimber]

DOMES!!!

[splitclimber]

with route potential 

I was talking with Harrison Hood about routes on what I'm calling Starr Queen and Starr Knight.  He said Roper mentions some routes, but the High Sierra guide I have (green) doesn't list any. Or maybe he meant a Yosemite guidebook. Anyone know anything? 

I have lots o beta pics and would be stoked to go out with someone who has a bolt kit next season. 

[mungeclimber]

There's some real interest from the folks right here.

Got a time frame in mind?

[daniel banquo merrick]

First off, this is the kind of place I love to go. I'd tag along with anybody and I am always willing to carry a load.

Second, once for a discussion of the area on ST I made a map with all the domes with climbing potential numbered. Dome 9 seems to have stuck which is fun I think. Eric Gabel has asked me about Dome 9 and says he will put what he knows about it in the guidebook.

The map for reference:

[mungeclimber]

There's some real interest from the folks right here.

Got a time frame in mind?

vvv see what I mean

[splitclimber]

I've gone two times in October and would really like to go back in the summer with more daylight and water at the upper westside camp.