Sportz ClimbZ

[mungeclimber]

Need me zome sportz climbz in the Ballz area.

Any recommendz?

Nothing harder than 10d/eazy 11a mozt likely.

clip upz to challengez myself

tankz

[John]

NE corner of Nightwatch probably has the most sport climbs.

[mungeclimber]

Groovy. I seem to recall that not being too far to hump up the hill.

[NateD]

Anything in the 5.8-5.9 range up there, John, or mostly 5.10 and up?

[John]

There is a little bit of everything from 5.7 up.

[mike a]

Hi all, so you must be talking about the sport routes to the left of Nightwatch Dome, I have been there and looks like the work of Grahm saw his haul bag hanging in a cave full of his gear so I am sure he is coming some day, I sure Matt S was helping Grahm as well, the routes there look like the same climbers who put up the routes on the back side of Golden Toad Dome, the smoke up at the Balls today was super bad but the burger at the Jones Store was super yummy :-) Happy climbing Mike A.

[mungeclimber]

I never did get to the back side.

Not looking forward to the smoke this weekend, though I'm hoping SPH is the least smokey.

cheers 

[John]

Mike, I was talking about the right/upper side of Nightwatch, sounds like you are talking about the Iguana. The Nightwatch crag is really fun and props to their thorough camouflaging of hardware. Some of that stuff has like three shades of paint and is almost invisible from the ground.

[mike a]

Morning, thanks for the info John, I will check out the the upper right side of Nightwatch, have you climbed at the Iguana? if so what did you thing of that area? happy climbing Mike A.

[susan]

Not been there yet. Some friends whose opinions are usually right down the middle of the whole bolting controversy, and whose judgements in general I highly value, complained it looks grid bolted. I've not seen it yet tho.


What do you think about it?


Hey Mike A., have you been climbing with Mike again, who we all climbed with at Chiquito last spring? Just wondering as we enjoyed the company that weekend..

[mike a]

Morning, what John calls Iguana has to be a Grahmy project bolts all over the place like I said Iguana area looks like the same climbers who bolted the back side of Golden Toad Dome, bolts all over the place, so I am sure its the work Jerry A, Grahm D, and Matt S, what do I think about all those bolts, its hard say I think its lam because i have climbed a lot of Grahm and crews over bolted areas and I have thought some of the routes were fun, so I would be a hypocrite I hate it. I think Grahm is a bit reckless with the style he does things, I know lots of climbers do not like the things he does, I think Grahm is a glory hug and its about him and all about putting up new routes more then just the pure love of climbing!!!, its funny he puts all that work and money on an area and then never goes back to climb at the area. I think he was super influenced by people like Louie Anderson and we have seen how he does things. Unfortunately Grahm will not change the way he does things, its hard for me to get mad at him because he always plays the (nice guy card). My self I have been thinking hard about my impact on the land up there, and have been thinking twice if there really a need to put in bolts or not, so thats what I think about that, Yes climbed with Michel last week took him up to the back side of Golden Toad Dome, he is coming back up here in a couple weeks from now to climb with me some more, Michel is a great guy be a friend of mind for 25 years, happy climbing Mike A.

[mike a]

Morning you guys, great hanging out with you this weekend, thanks again for hooking me up with some info, hope to run in to you two soon and climb, happy climbing Mike A.

[mike a]

morning happy friday, have checked out and climbed at both iguana and the sport climbing area at night watch, I think iguana is way more fun then night watch, and after seeing John and Sue on that unbolted route at upper jackass dome I climbed it on tr and it was pretty hard and pumpy and would be scary on lead with pro, but its a real good route with 2 crux's for short people like me, maybe goes at 5.11b/c. this season with all the roads closed and smoke and fires, the balls was a great place to climb and hang out, for me its like the new shuteye lol :-), it snowed a bit there on wednesday night and yesterday but today its nice out and the next 10 days perfect climbing temps up there, also i really love the little bouldering circuit i got going on up there. with all the road closures the area is packed with hunters , hunting season with a gun opened last saturday and gosh their were hunters everywhere so heads up on that, but i still have not seen any other climbers up there this season but good old John and Sue. early this week decided to go to climb at the east side and do a little hot tubing as well, it took me 2.5 hours just to drive through the park, gosh the park is such a zoo!!!, and when i was setting by myself in the hot/cold tub i was thinking, and why did i leave the southern yosemite area??? lol, if their were hot tubs at the southern yosemite area it would the best climbing area in the world :-), happy climbing Mike A.

[mungeclimber]

FACT! If there were hot tubs, we'd all be there every weekend. But LE pools ain't too shabby.

Hoping to get back down there in the next few weeks.

[susan]

Where were you at Mike, green church, Benton or somewhere else?

Has anyone heard of the hot springs on the other side of the San Joaquin across from Shuteye somewhere?


Good to hear that you've got Soyo in your line of sight soon Munge!