Author Topic: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack  (Read 14938 times)

DaveyTree

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #15 on: July 11, 2016, 06:14:47 pm »
I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where

John

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #16 on: July 11, 2016, 07:26:43 pm »
I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where

That would be a great name if there weren't so many Thunder Domes already.

NateD

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2016, 09:28:24 pm »
I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where

Yes, that is what Mark Spencer called it. Now if I could just recall if Royal and the Rockcraft guides gave it a name, as they guided there a bit. I don't believe they recorded any of their climbs on it, however.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2016, 09:30:09 pm by NateD »

daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2016, 08:38:23 am »
Don't forget you can access BOR from the north by simply continuing up the trail.


I thought I saw it referred to as School Rock someplace but now I don't know. There is a School Rock at Donner of course. I guess I call it that because of all the guided groups I see there and Jackass Lakes Trailhead Dome is a crappy name. It seems kinda puny to be called Thunder Dome. Anyway, I think JLT Dome is the most common reference these days.

splitclimber

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2016, 10:02:53 am »
thanks ya'll for all the lines on pics.  still need to get up there.  maybe this weekend if I can get on the road fri eve.

Sooooo, what would be the consensus on the approach?  John's green line.  If so, I'd be willing and happy to spend a little time with clippers/loppers if that would help.


John

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #20 on: July 12, 2016, 11:22:47 am »
thanks ya'll for all the lines on pics.  still need to get up there.  maybe this weekend if I can get on the road fri eve.

Sooooo, what would be the consensus on the approach?  John's green line.  If so, I'd be willing and happy to spend a little time with clippers/loppers if that would help.


Thats a generous offer Splitclimber butI would not cut a trail at all, I am probably part of a very short list of people that like the Wilderness to the left totally wild. Do the approach a couple of times and make a few cairns at key points. That green path is very reasonable as is.

susan

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #21 on: July 12, 2016, 04:03:02 pm »
Hi Splitclimber. Thanks too for the kind offer. The way we descended may need some more figuring yet for fine-tuning getting through the woods and shrubs. I wonder if Nate's Red line approach is the most mellow overall - maybe the least steep and least bushy? We went the way we did w/the green line bc it was closest to where we parked which overall does seem closest but maybe steeper.

splitclimber

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #22 on: July 14, 2016, 12:32:22 pm »
Agreed John and nothing a pair of jeans won't conquer.  :P

John

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #23 on: July 14, 2016, 12:41:52 pm »
Agreed John and nothing a pair of jeans won't conquer.  :P


Ha! I hear yah! I didn't want to sound preachy about trail trimming, actually I thought the approach was really in true Wilderness since you pass one of those Wilderness signs and I believe we should not look bad to "official types", you know. I looked it up and it turns out the approach is not in Wilderness but about half of the formation is. I just didn't want someone to cut out a trail based on my suggestion since there are often better paths found as a rough trail gets used more often. Just saying test drive it a few times first.

splitclimber

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2016, 10:57:41 am »
Well, we went on a test drive this weekend.  some stop and go traffic on the approach :) but we did get to our destination.

Lone Pine Crack was awesome and well worth the effort to get there.  We did most of the extension finish, but not the final buldge mostly because we weren't sure where to go, it looked intimidating and it was an obviously walk off to the right.

Had 3 great days at the Balls.  Really great to meet you John and Susan. 


daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #25 on: August 09, 2016, 09:43:40 pm »
Quote
we weren't sure where to go

Go up, of course. I have always said that up is the best way to go.

Kidding aside, this brings up the topo dilemma. Bob and I did the direct finish and drew a topo and I even have photos - but should such things be published? Why or why not? Half the people on this forum probably have the topo so what does it matter? I think maybe do not publish because it is so much fun to adventure into the unknown and I want people to adventure. But, I also want people to enjoy and have fun so maybe topos should be shared.

Do nothing is the default option.

Perhaps it doesn't matter at all either way.

"An adventure is interesting enough in retrospect, especially to the person that didn't have it; at the time it happens it usually constitutes an exceedingly disagreeable experience." Vilhjalmur Stefansson

I would be disappointed to deprive anybody of any opportunity for adventure.

splitclimber

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #26 on: August 10, 2016, 12:01:41 pm »
yeah, going up would have been the icing on the cake.  Is it the steep, almost overhanging juggy start from the ledge? 

We were also on a time crunch - we walked off the back, stashed gear and hiked to Madera Peak, which is an awesome class 2 hike.

the pic topo is plenty info for these climbs on BOR.  I'd agree with you about plastering topos and info online.

But I'll admit, I was starting to drool when John whipped out all these printout when we met because I like guidebooks and to know what is out there, but I'm happy exploring, figuring it out myself and only asking for stuff if I feel I really need it.

For my local crags, the saying is "let it trickle out".  :)





John

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #27 on: August 10, 2016, 02:15:03 pm »
The final steep pitch we did was maybe 30-50'(?) left of the tree hidden behind a big block and you kinda should aim towards the big final notch on the previous pitch to belay below it. Kinda lousy gear on the steepest part but not that scary since it isn't that tall, like 15'. I wanted to have a picnic on that little grassy nook next to the tree, we really loved the setting.

We couldn't figure out exactly where Dan and Bob went up on their variation final pitch but there are several points you could head up but they looked really intimidating if I guessed right. Super knobby all around there.

It's funny how few people just wing it and try to figure climbs out as they go. We run into quite a few folks that tell us they wouldn't attempt a climb without pretty thorough information in hand. I appreciate the adventure you get with vague information like from the Spencer Guide. Most of those climbs in there are merely a suggestion as to where they go and you get that first ascent feeling.

Heck, look at the Roper Guide, now there is some minuscule info to go by and some of those routes are Grade 6 endeavors! Typical description: "Go up East side, hike off. Bring pitons."

mungeclimber

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #28 on: August 10, 2016, 08:36:41 pm »
Trickle sprinkle drip, sounds right

susan

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Re: Book Of Revelations-Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack
« Reply #29 on: August 11, 2016, 08:30:08 am »
Then again I may have steered away from a climb due to a guide description and shouldn't of... I know a very avid climber who does not like to consult guides until after they climb something not only for more of a sense of adventure but seem to me that similarly they don't want any discouraging news...

But if possible I can scour a Supertopo and still have questions preflight hah. Or want to read up on more than one guide...

Anyway makes sense to exit where you did Splitclimber especially moving on to your next objective! It was worth doing another pitch and all, but we had considered exiting right as well after a snack on that luxuriously shady ledge...

So curious about Madera Peak and would love to hear more about how that went! And or see photos... If inclined.

Good meeting you two and a little awry that we didn't just kickback and have a beer with you guys, but we did get something done quickly that needed the cherry on top so to speak. Thought maybe there would be another chance to meet up that weekend. Next time hopefully!






« Last Edit: August 11, 2016, 11:23:57 am by susan »