Renewed interest?

[mungeclimber]

Pat B. was in the area. I just saw some pics of his. Holey moley, ton of rock up thar.

[daniel banquo merrick]

I have a route started on a dome. Steep friction.

[mungeclimber]

what you need to finish it?

[daniel banquo merrick]

Somebody who can drill on steep friction with steeper, blanker rock ahead. I have some photos i can post when I get home.

[mungeclimber]

I know a guy. But getting him out of ShutEye will be a difficult proposition.

[daniel banquo merrick]

7 mile hike to camp near base. ~0.4 mile to water from camp. Lots of bears around. Camp is on top of a huge flat topped boulder. 4 or 5 people could probably camp there. Not much flat ground near rock - might be better to camp near the water.

Pitch 1, gear, 2 bolt anchor. Drilling P1 anchors:


Pitch 2 incomplete, two bolts, no gear so far.

First bolt, pitch 2:



Second bolt, pitch 2:

[mungeclimber]

wow! looks high quality!

[John]

That does look really fun.

[mungeclimber]

That does look really fun.

Btw, this is the guy I know.

[daniel banquo merrick]

My 10% rule works like this; of all the people, only 10% ever go to the mountains. Of all the people who go to the mountains, only 10% ever get out of sight of their car. Of all the people who get out of sight of their car, only 10% ever leave the trail. And so on.

Climbers are the same; gym, roadside crag, day hike, over night, etc.

The chance of anybody going there to climb is negligible. That's why this partial route is all there is on the whole crag.

I'm ready to go back but there doesn't really seem to be much of anybody else willing to go.

Besides, I've gotten fat and lazy myself.

All that said, plan a trip and I'll go, and carry a load, and patiently belay.

[mungeclimber]

Spring has good water resources, but bad bugs?  Or is it a wash?  i.e. Spring doesn't get you closer to the climbs with water nearby?  If so Autumn is the time. 

Is late October too risky? Can we shuttle a car to make coming in easier and leaving easy too?

[daniel banquo merrick]

Spring is always buggy - everywhere. Right now, I wouldn't be surprised if the creek was dry. Here is the water supply in July 2012:



I'm not sure what you have in mind about a car shuttle. The 7 mile approach is from Mono Meadows and all on good trail. Cross country approach is about 6 miles but through the forests so probably not an advantage. I can't think of any other way to approach it that makes sense.

When I was there, my friend wanted to do the best line on the wall and I thought it would be a better idea to do something easier as a first route. We ended up on his option. If we want to extend this route, I'd want to let him know. He's taken a real job and moved to Pasadena.

There is plenty of room.

[mungeclimber]

huh, I thought there was a campsite nearer the ridge for Starr, then you could traverse/hike to somewhere near Liberty and down out to the Valley. Maybe that's just extra work.

[NateD]

Did you call this Dome 9, Dan? Where'd it get the name? Thomas Addison and friends climbed many routes on the domes in that region, as you may know. Not sure if they explored that one. Eric Gabel is actually seeking info right now for climbs in this region for the monumental Yosemite guidebook effort. Maybe you've been in touch, and if not, you should.

[daniel banquo merrick]

I called it that but only because I am not aware of anybody calling it anything different. I've referred to it as such since 2011 when I posted a map on the SuperTopo Mt. Starr King thread - a thread you also posted on. I numbered the formations in an effort to sort them out and the name stayed since no other came up.

I walked the base and could find no evidence of climbers but that doesn't mean there hasn't been any. I don't have contact info for Addison.

I have not communicated with Eric Gabel about this although he did contact me recently about Starr King. Maybe I'll send him an email.