Author Topic: Route Recommendations  (Read 5920 times)

DG

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 13
Route Recommendations
« on: July 06, 2015, 10:17:49 pm »
Hi all!

Hoping to get out and about soon. Thinking I might check out Whiskey Bill and Looking Glass. Anyone have recommendations for routes on Hawk Dome?

DG

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2015, 11:06:54 pm »
Hi DG. Sorry I do not know the names of the routes we did there but if I recall accurately there were a number of fun first pitches for cragging. Faves of mine were one or maybe two of a nice mostly face but mixed route we walked directly to at the top of the trail (.9 & .10ish?). This is on the main face which is to the right of the yellow and green licheny left facing crack system on the far left.. and to the left of a very steep sport (10+/11-?) route. Hopefully someone will get good suggestions for you soon.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2015, 01:09:40 am by susan »

NateD

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 514
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2015, 10:25:52 am »
DG,
On Hawk, I've only done p.1 of Zsofie's Route .10b (2.5 pitches) and Youthful Indiscretions 5.8/9 (3 Pitches), but both were quite fun, on great rock. Chicken Hawk .10a is also a fun short pitch with a Mussy Hook anchor. The latter two start off the upper end of the ramp/ledge before the boulder cave. Zsofie's Route starts at the very toe of Hawk, heading up thru the shortest section of the roof (if memory serves). Don't know if you've been before, but it looks like if you climb solid .10 sport, you can manage almost all of the routes there, even if you don't know what they are. Some gear is required to supplement the bolts on many routes, as you may know.


DaveyTree

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 647
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2015, 05:03:04 pm »
Hi DG. Have you been to Hawk Dome before? If not, the lower approach is much better if you are specifically going to HD. The parking is just past Fresno Dome camp ground, 1/4 mile, on the right side of a sharp left switch back in the road. Cross the dry creek with the huge log following the logging road. As it trends right and down hill, go straight on trail and begin going up. Follow trail to base of hawk. About 20 minutes.

Most of the climbs are in the 10's and are all fun. Bring nuts and slings for knobs, cams not really needed but you will find some places for them. To the right of the toe is a ledge. There are 3 routes from ground to ledge .11a, .10c & 5.9 (L to R). Once on the ledge there is an .11a starting in a short corner with a roof. to the right of the .11a is a .9, .8, .10a, 10a, .10a and .10c that goes up from a cave like area on the ledge that you can squeeze thru the back to more rock and climbs.

There are also climbs to the left of the ledge area. Most people climb the routes from the ledge going up and can be TRd if you chose. They go up 3 pitches to the top. The right side of the second pitch ledge has several variations with a fun trad exit on the right side. You can walk off/scramble on the back side but the walk around is not quick. You can also rap into the gully, climbers right,  between HD and Fresno Dome with one 60m rope. Rapping back down the pitches will tangle you in the chicken heads.

4 more climbs can be found in the gully toward the top just below Eraser Head (small formation for TR on top in the notch between Fresno Dome). Also toward the bottom of the gully as you head back to the hole in the back of the cave you will find more climbs.

PMd you

DG

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 13
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2015, 10:40:00 pm »
Thanks for the info, everyone! Haven't been to Hawk Dome before, so the info on the routes and approach are very much so appreciated! DaveyTree, I PMd you back.

DG

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2015, 08:34:04 am »
Thanks to those kicking down all that spot on info.

DG hope you got out there already or will soon.

DG

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 13
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2015, 12:35:45 am »
Hey all! Thanks again for the info! Was able to get up there on Saturday. Absolutely great area! Got in a few routes above/at the ledge and finished the day with the three below the ledge. Didn't go to the top this trip but planning to next time! Also, hoping to make it to the lunesta fiesta, as climbing SP by moonlight sounds super fun!







DG

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2015, 09:27:00 am »
Glad to hear it, and see it! I just realized why else that view of the forest slays me other than its beauty and you can't see much development.... Harkens back to a view I used to enjoy for hours at a time from my home growing up in the NW. Nice shots!
« Last Edit: July 16, 2015, 09:31:55 am by susan »

NateD

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 514
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2015, 12:18:21 pm »
Excellent, DG!

A few pics from out there:

Maureen and Lynnea




Jerry & Lynnea


Steve on the .11 roof

DaveyTree

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 647
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #9 on: August 05, 2015, 06:33:49 pm »
Great pics.

DG

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 13
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #10 on: August 05, 2015, 07:53:04 pm »
I'll have to try that roof route sometime! Is the beginning/roof the crux of it?

NateD

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 514
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #11 on: August 07, 2015, 10:31:30 am »
I did not climb it, but it looked to me like getting under the roof was possibly a tad harder than exiting the roof. Very cool sequence required.

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #12 on: August 20, 2015, 12:33:10 am »
I do not recall for certain but think I found it cruxiest there DJ.

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2015, 07:01:13 am »
Got a taste of some Whiskey Bill...

This route is fun and goes fast. We did the first 2 pitches in one.

And 3rd and 4th pitch as one.


Only a light rack was used overall and mostly in the 5th pitch when I was glad to have a set of nuts and small cams (green aliens).

DG

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 13
Re: Route Recommendations
« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2015, 01:14:32 pm »
Awesome, Susan! Still need to do that one!