Author Topic: Re: Book of Revelation Routes  (Read 1863 times)

NateD

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Re: Book of Revelation Routes
« on: February 24, 2015, 01:21:39 pm »
Here are some additions to Dan's BofR topo. Sorry, couldn't fit the FA attributions and dates, (when known). Will have to type those up eventually, (although maybe I shared 'em with topo master John already).

Dan, the purple line is one that Jerry and Sigrid climbed and didn't name, but which was very likely climbed years before along a similar path or with some variation by Lars and his friend Rainer, naming it Dirt Doctors, as shared on this site:

"Rainer Lambretch and I did a route in '9.6.'92 that follows a line through the big roof that caps the wall. Five pitches the last being 5.7.  Not sure if this was a Spencer route or a FA.  I guess it really doesn't matter much.  It's all an adventure out there."

He posted pics here, http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=27.msg1398#msg1398
so someone should eventually go up with the pics and climb around to figure it all out. :) Or Lars just might chime in again, fingers crossed.

NOTE: not all bolts are indicated on this topo, although there are generally very few up there on the routes noted (although there could be more now, who knows). Fun stuff.



EDIT: Good idea to make this it's own thread, John. Thanks goes to Dan for starting this photo topo years ago based on his findings and explorations up there.
I imagine similar easy undocumented climbs (not in Spencer) have been done all over the south face of The Golden Toad as well.

I'll add some further tidbits to this thread.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2015, 10:12:57 am by NateD »

daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Book of Revelation Routes
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2015, 04:10:12 pm »
I've been looking at larsj's pictures of the route Dirt Doctors. In this photo I see two trees.



His photo looking up shows a distinctive roof.



I took a photo from the base that shows the roof.



Looking at Google Earth, I believe I see the same two trees.



This suggests that the route starts at Lone Pine Crack or on the face to the left of LPC.


John

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Re: Book of Revelation Routes
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2015, 05:21:03 pm »
Nice detective work Dan!!

I think Dan has posted this topo overlay here before (recently too) and should definitely get credit for creating it. I just get excited when these topos progress and get updated and really want to encourage that.

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in and added their info to the process. Looking good!

NateD

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Re: Book of Revelation Routes
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2015, 01:06:15 pm »
Yes, fine research there, Dan. The first photo of Rainer low on the route does resemble the start of Lone Pine crack, in my questionable memory. Lots of features for the second half of the pitch, with the crack/flake which leads up to the tree being to the climbers right at that point.