Author Topic: List of first lead routes  (Read 5533 times)

daniel banquo merrick

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 516
List of first lead routes
« on: February 19, 2015, 07:41:34 am »
A good first lead route is of course easy. It should also be a trad route with plenty of good gear placements.

The first time I put my son on lead was on Golden Toad in June 2007. The Spencer topos of the toad are not clear to me but we went up the ridge between the northwest face and the south face. I'd say it is 5-easy which is easier than 5-fun. This might be Spencer's Southwest Ridge 5.6. This route loves cams.

Can you think of any other first lead routes? I know lots of young gym climbers and need to get them out there on the sharp end.

« Last Edit: February 19, 2015, 07:44:56 am by daniel banquo merrick »

mungeclimber

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2015, 09:52:22 am »
The cracks at the base of Chiquito. I know a couple folks where that was their first trad lead thx to SYMG.

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2015, 10:41:34 am »
Yes, some of the Apron routes at Chiquito and the far left slab offer good early lead routes, as do some places at the Balls. But most these climbs are bolted.

I need to reference guides I don't have right now to name climb names. Plus, I need to not be working to really answer.

I can't help but mention that I actually did think while climbing this line last weekend that we may have found the answer to this question on the steep crack far right at Jackass (photo repost below). I'd have called it Southern Yosemite's version of the Valley's Jam Crack... UNTIL the section above the crack that gets chossy for a move or two before getting back to the goods. There's a moment of slippery grit to commit to where the only crack seems to flare. For the most part, though, the rest of it is some mandatory jamming between otherwise abundant face climbing features. Could be 5.7 or 8.

I'd climb it again to be sure before recommending it for early leads. John did have to lob off a loose block. Could have some strays. Needs long slings for the beginning and for traversing at the end. Don't miss tying off the perfect knob moving left to the anchor. Most folks would probably rather replace/update the anchor, me included before recommending for early leads. It is restrung with new sling - two pitons and two nuts.

The climb just left of it that lands at the same anchor is probably 5.9+. Not recommending it for early leads, but it would be fun to TR after doing the one mentioned above. It's got some iffy rock - but is otherwise really cool. Would be curious to hear others opinion of the quality. There's a large pillar that is questionable to pro for fear it levers some day..., but there's a thin crack nearby that is great for gear.

Also, Melting Wall at Lost Eagle which is steep.

For all of this, it would be good to review slinging knobs, camming btw knobs, camming and nutting plates, and reviewing the use of best judgment to check out the quality of the rock before bothering to pro... knocking/tapping, sensing how solid or questionable, checking for cracks surrounding potential placements....

Hawk Tower I think it's called up at Dreamscape has a line, or maybe two that are 6-7 or 8 ish if I recall. We lowered in on rappel from above, and found some incredibly featured rock. There's some bolting, but the rock seemed impeccably clean and sufficiently hard to hold gear reliably. There's an old Vernon line up there at Dreamscape above Hawk that pros beautifully like this, though it may be by other bolted fare...

There's much more, mostly I'm thinking of one or two climbs in many areas...., but I need the guides to name route names, and gotta get back to work for now.




P.s. I like the photo of you and Ford, Dan.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2015, 11:22:52 am by susan »

DaveyTree

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 647
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2015, 05:02:23 pm »
Fresno Dome has some nothing but giant holds up South Pillar. Knobs everywhere. I wouldn't recommend sending a first lead on it without trailing first. But after a couple laps it would seem a easy no brainer. 5.7

Out od the area but Tollhouse Traverse has to be mentioned. 5.5 and bomber cam placements with a few nuts thrown in. Easy climbing with multiple pitches.

Below Voodoo there is a short couple routes on a feature triangular wall. The left is all trad with an anchor and the right has one or two bolts on it to the same anchor. The left I believe is 5.7. Easy to put a newbiw on for laps before their first lead.

The area one the left side of Grey. Can't recall the name but has some easy stuff up it that would be good for a first lead.

When teaching leaders I usually pick a route and have them do a few laps on it until they feel good about it. I then pull the rope but leave the rope through the first bolt or piece of pro. It keeps my sanity so there is no decking.

daniel banquo merrick

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 516
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2015, 07:37:54 pm »
South Pillar is an easy and I think one of the best moderate climbs I know. What a varied and surprisingly easy route. I try to climb it at least once a year and it is easy enough to take most any kind of noob up. However, I would be very hesitant to send a first leader up it just because of route finding. Down climbing to and protecting the notch seems like Like it might be a bit much for a first lead. As you say, on the second or third lap I think it might be fine for a first lead.

susan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2015, 02:59:51 pm »
Escher's pitch 1. Duh. Funny I didn't think of it til now. I'd recommend you climb it first to see if you think it would be a good candidate. First pitch is 5.8. It was our friend Meg' s first lead. She did well and liked it.

NateD

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 514
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2015, 01:42:40 pm »
The cracks at the base of Chiquito. I know a couple folks where that was their first trad lead thx to SYMG.

Agreed these are good ones. Either side of the flake or up the middle, which may be a wee bit less secure for bountiful straightforward pro, if memory serves.

Snake Crack on Squaw comes to mind, although maybe the slab traverse to the first anchor could spook some folks.

If steepness isn't intimidating to gym rats (or less so than slab), and they are well trained on slinging knobs and funky nut and cam placements, I'm partial to Seek and Ye Shall Find on the Melting Wall.

What about the small corner climb you and Bob did on B of Revelation, Dan? I haven't climbed it yet, so dunno about the pro.
Nate


daniel banquo merrick

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 516
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2015, 03:24:53 pm »
Yes, Book of Revelation is great beginner territory. I think the whole main face is 5.7 or easier. The head wall steps it up to 5.8 or possibly 5.9. I sent my son and his girlfriend up Lone Pine Crack A couple years ago and they didn't die. The three routes we did on the right face are perhaps a bit challenging for a beginning climber. The left two take gear but might be a little tricky to protect while the right one is bolted and perhaps a bit far between bolts.

Do any of the Chiquito routes suggested have names?

Book of Revelation topo. It looks like the purple route isn't named or if it has been, I don't recall what it is.



Easy Streaks, me at the second bolt.


mungeclimber

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2015, 06:49:41 pm »
Easy Streaks looks super fun!

mike a

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 383
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #9 on: February 23, 2015, 09:02:45 pm »
hi all, thanks for the topo, couple 4th of july's ago amy and i want to the balls and we climbed a couple fun routes a super short hike off the road, would that be book of revelation? we could never figure out which dome it was, heres a pix of amy on the dome we were on, i would like to check out this b of revelation, looks fu, thanks mike a.

John

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1555
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2015, 09:35:33 pm »
That looks like the Jackass Lake Trailhead crag.

John

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1555
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2015, 06:26:34 am »
Quote
Do any of the Chiquito routes suggested have names?

Not really.

They are the starts for Tootsie and Archline but are really interchangeable since all three lines end at the same anchor. It is hard to tell from these shots but there is a big tombstone-shaped flake with a crack up the center and layback cracks of each side. Good stuff.




daniel banquo merrick

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 516
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2015, 07:42:01 am »
Mike, Looks like the middle of School Dome AKA Jackass Lakes Trailhead Rock like John says.

Somebody check this overview and see if the names are right.

http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BallsPano.jpg

mike a

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 383
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2015, 08:14:23 am »
hi all, thanks a ton for the lay out of the balls area way more helpful then the spencer book, the book does not show jackass dome,and yes that's the one jackass trail dome amy is on, b of revelation looks fun have to chech it out, i will have lots of time to check out more stuff in southern yosemite area since i am moving to oakhurst in a couple months  :) i am super psyched to be a local up there i have been planning this for years, thanks again for the info, happy climbing mike a.

mungeclimber

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1980
Re: List of first lead routes
« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2015, 09:03:02 am »
Congrats on the move! That is going to be nice being close to the crags!