First Ascent Photos

[VM]

That route looks fun! Well done!


Future projects!

[jeff]

Nice job you guys!  I keep missing out.

[susan]

Tx all! 

 

[John]

Hey Jeff
What is your official rating for Of Wisdom and War? We are rating the new route in comparison to yours so it would help. I thought you said 10d but I have c/d in my notes for some reason. Thanks.

You shoulda been there. You need to get out there dammit!!!

[jeff]

Oh man, I wanna get out there, been way to long. So many unfinished projects. So many others I want to climb. So many I want to repeat. Just don't know how to make it happen.

Who has done Of Wisdom and War? You and Sue. Sean? What is the consensus?

Where is your new route on Minerva? Sounds fun. Nice job.

[jeff]

The photo of Sue on the dike, awesome, looks so far to the next bolt. Nice job. How hard is it to the next bolt? Who drilled that one?  Would love to hear the full story play by play.

[John]

I have led OWAW and remember your rating felt right on at the time, I just don't remember what rating that was! It has been a couple of years since I last led it. The thing is, we (at least I) think of the difficulty as very similar to our new one so we may as well rate it like the routes in the same area. Our new one is just to the right of OWAW.

[susan]

I'm in no hurry to rate this. More opinions soon could get a worse average before it gets better anyway. 10+/11- gives nice warning. The spacing of the bolts as you turn the bulge there as pictured is probably deceiving and not bad. Let's see, maybe we should wait til you climb it to ask you which bolt you think was placed by who?   Sure would be nice to hang with you guys out there at least once before the year is up.

But you know what really messes me up for ratings is the first pitch of your 'Chad' climb at Parkline, Jeff. Have you settled on a grade for it? Following that I remember thinking it much higher than expected.

[sneville]

I thought wisdom and war was 10d especially stepping out of that scoop down low.  Similar to Orange Slice which I think is more sustained.  I think the new route would rate the same.  The upper dike in that picture is sweet and goes at a moderate grade.  Sue earned the redpoint pushing the limits on lead.  Such a good weekend.  I am planning to head back up there November 8-9th. 

Sean

[jeff]

Again you guys, awesome job, it looks beautiful!

John, I have 10+ in my notes for OWAW.

Sue, I am not clear on you thoughts on the rating for Dangling Chads? Harder than 10+ or easier? What rating would you give. And yes it would be great to hook up with all you guys out there.  I have to say I am jealous and a bit sad I was not there but happy for you all. I love the group shot.

[John]

10 c/d it is. Thanks for clarifying.

[susan]

Seems a while ago when in reality it was only a handful of years since we climbed it. But as I recall, DC felt .11+  to me, long and sustained. I remember little chips peeling away, which happens on some of the best of rock faces, not knocking it. Doesn't make it unclean in my mind, just new. Still, that messed with me too, and I felt very doubtful when imagining leading it. I got a bad case of what I call "second head" on it, where I imagine the challenge of leading so clearly that I freak myself out on TR. LOL. I was impressed by how challenging it seemed.

Anyhoo, that is sweet Jeff. What you said. Really sweet.

[susan]

[mungeclimber]

[jeff]

Sue, my original rating for DC p1 was 11a. Then a friend who wasn't climbing much did it on tr without falling so I down rated it to 10d. Then I took another friend on it and he called me a sandbagger. Then my buddy Austin lead it clean and he thought 11a was good. Then Flanders led it and he said 10b. I followed Flanders on a bunch of runout stuff on Middle Cathedral rated 5.9-10c and every pitch felt harder than DC. So it's probably 5.9, right John.

Now you got me thinking of that route. I love the first 2 pitches. The second pitch is so good. Sad it has only had a couple of ascents. Not sure if anyone else has done the whole thing to the top that I didn't do it with them?