Big Sleep

[daniel banquo merrick]

I thought I'd start a general Big Sleep topic since I didn't see one.

Does anybody know anything about the memorial plaque at the camping slab? It's under a tree at the far end of the slab.

[John]

I saw that plaque too. Cemented on the slab.

Dan-Did you ever finish your routes?

Seems painfully hot these days yet that doesn't appear to slow down the traffic.

[squiddo]

I saw that plaque too. Cemented on the slab.

Dan-Did you ever finish your routes?

Seems painfully hot these days yet that doesn't appear to slow down the traffic.

Nice memory- way better than being 6 ft under in a dirt lot in Sonora.

[mungeclimber]

Sonora slander?

Why not Bakersfield?


 

[squiddo]

Sonora slander?

Why not Bakersfield?


 

LOL J/K.....I always see that sad HOT looking dirt cemetery on the hillside in sonora on the way through town.

[daniel banquo merrick]

I did go back this year and top out on the first route left of Drench Warfare which is called Good Sleep. Belayed 5 pitches but the last two are very easy. The first three are 5.6, 5.4, 5.2 although I actually don't know what 5.2 is. The first pitch is good although my friend Jay thought it a bit runout. I added two bolts to the second pitch since people thought 200' was a bit far for one bolt and no gear. I would say climb the first three and rap back down.

P1, 5.6R, 190', three cams and 3 bolts, two bolt anchor above last cam
P2, 5.4R, 190', 3 bolts, two bolt anchor
P3, 5.2R, 200', no gear, two bolt anchor at huge pocket
(3rd class exit is possible from here to left and up small gully. Possibly use for descent as no rap anchors above.)
P4, easy, 108', no gear, 180' gear anchor
P5, easy, 180', no gear, gear anchor

The next route left was started by Bob and my son Ford. They did one short 90' pitch on gear with a bolted anchor. Nobody has been back to it that I know of although I'd like to go finish it up this year.

First pitch of Good Sleep:

[mungeclimber]

Sonora slander?

Why not Bakersfield?


 

LOL J/K.....I always see that sad HOT looking dirt cemetery on the hillside in sonora on the way through town.

I recall one in Jamestown on the right side. That's ok to slander Jamestown. But don't tell Lance I said that.

[susan]

Looks good Dan!

Who is that in the picture? You & ?

[daniel banquo merrick]

I think I took the picture. I believe it is Ford Merrick and Erin Takagishi.

[YETI]

Cool Dan!

I have never seen that plaque, have to check it out next time.

Saw your route over the last year or so, fun looking romp indeed.

have to check it out.

[John]

Dan-
I saw gear fixed on what must be your leftmost line, like 50' up. Was that you?

[daniel banquo merrick]

Bob and Ford did a 90' pitch on gear leaving a two bolt anchor. I don't know of anybody else who has climbed the next line to the left. Bob called it The Sandman 5.7. We plan to go back someday and see where it goes. If it is the same line, it seems odd that somebody would bail leaving gear when there is a rappel station at 90'. Somebody on a single 50m rope?

[John]

the gear was really low and in fact we considered bouldering up to grab it yet figured it was yours so we left it there.

[Climberdude]

Banquero,

Today I did your climb "Good Sleep".  It was an excellent climb.  However, unless I did some other route on the upper section, I think you mixed up the lengths of Pitches 4 and 5 as described earlier in this thread.  I found Pitch 4 to be at least 190 feet and Pitch 5 to be about 120 feet (this depends upon where you stop climbing roped up).  You listed the rating of Pitch 4 as "easy", but I would give it about 5.4, particularly the moves up the steeper section getting to the overlap where you can get gear in.  This pitch is very runout and does not have protection at the crux of the pitch.  I would agree that Pitch 5 deserves the rating  of "easy" as I thought it was about 5.1-5.2.  I was able to get in some gear on Pitch 3 in a crack on the left.  I used Black Diamond old style cams 0.5 through 3.5 and a set of Black Diamond X4 cams.

Mark Fletcher

[Climberdude]

I agree with Banquero's recommendation to do the first three pitches of "Good Sleep" and then rappel down.  I went to the top on the Pitches 4 and 5 which do not allow rappelling due to gear anchors.  The bushwack down the left side of the formation is pretty bad.  I would grade Pitch 4 as 5.4 R+ and Pitch 5 as 5.1-5.2.