Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information

[DaveyTree]

The blue line is the one I was referring to. Have not done the chimney.

[susan]

It's a really short little chim

[John]

Any guesses on the locations of these two? The location of Torn and Frayed sounds a lot like South Pillar but the description seems like a different path or climb. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Torn and Frayed-5.8
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
“This short, four-pitch climb was done by Jack Forsythe and me in June. It lies on the right side of a prominent pillar a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Stuart route. Three obvious pitches lead to a huge ledge from where easy face-climbing leads right, then up to the unroping spot.” NCCS II, F8.
Simon King, Unaffliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2

Blue Connection-5.8-
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
“This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in June.” NCCS I, F8.
Simon King, Unaffiliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2

[John]

Updated the mystery route and missing information list in the first post of this thread. If I missed something give me a heads up.
Contact me directly at john@southernyosemiteclimbing.com or publicly here.

 Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks!!

[DaveyTree]

Which route is the Beckey-Stuart route it refers to?

[John]

Buzzard Book

[DaveyTree]

Sounds pretty similar to South Pillar and first pitch of Whiskey Bill which starts on that ramp.

[John]

Sounds pretty similar to South Pillar and first pitch of Whiskey Bill which starts on that ramp.

I agree, but it's just too darned vague to really know for sure. The "prominent pillar" matches South Pillar for sure but the "Beckey Route" is actually the left side of South Pillar so it is well within a "few hundred feet". The next "pillar" would suggest the Watership Down area. If that was the case then Fresno Flats may actually be "Blue Connection" since it doesn't have a name attached to it and may had been a single pitch route originally. Maybe Mike A. could comment on that since he saw it in it's original state.

[John]

Re-reading it makes me think it really really matches Watership Down and Fresno Flats.

"short"-sure, why not, check
"four pitch"-check"
"huge ledge"-check
"face climbing right"-check

[DaveyTree]

That does sound a bit like Watership Down but Watership is 250 yards from Buzzard Book. Hmmmmm

[Doug Robinson]

Since there's been general interest in early history of the Hnterlands, as Royal called them, here is a new article of mine recalling a bit about it:

http://adventuresportsjournal.com/royal-robbins-2/

Note to Susan and John: I surfed around the site and couldn't find a "general interest" thread so I posted it here. Please move it if I missed a better place for it to land.

Thanks,
Doug

[susan]

Very nice. A number of us have that feeling don't we? That climbing may have saved us. Even if in the end it could be our undoing.

I like that Royal tried to save it, climbing, right back, and give back, though I always love the stories of Harding too. I wonder if at the time it really felt they were at such odds as history paints. It sure seems so but also as if that opposition relaxed in the end?

[John]

Thanks for sharing, Doug I enjoyed that very much. We hope you write more about those Rockcraft days. I think you enjoyed the kid in a candy store feeling back then as many of us do now.

You can start a topic in the General Category if what you wish to share is not area-specific.

[DaveyTree]

Good read. Thanks Doug. Hard to beat Wamello. Love the place. Hope you can make Lunesta Fiesta this year. Should be a great time.

[DaveyTree]

In reading those descriptions again, Torn and Frayed really sounds like S.P.  Could Blue Connection be up that area between SP. and WB that is always hard to draw on topos? It seems about that far from SP.