Author Topic: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information  (Read 30340 times)

John

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #60 on: October 09, 2015, 08:28:54 am »
Does anyone know anything about the two crack climbs in the beautiful yellow rock on the true summit of Hawk Dome facing Echo Wall? One is a steep handcrack through a roof (about 10d) and the other is a short offwidth to a handcrack (about 10a). Both have anchors. I remember someone mentioning them somewhere but I can't figure out where. There are more bolts than usual at the top of the roof climb so they might be only topropes? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!

DaveyTree

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #61 on: October 15, 2015, 10:43:06 am »
You may be talking about the ones I sent you pics of. If so, I remember there being atleast one set, possibly two, of anchors. I recall three climbs. They all started in the gully except the OW seems to be a variation of the hand crack once you gain the slanted ledge area about half way up. One is the handcrack, then the off-width which I remembered to share a set of anchors on a flat 4'x4' ledge. The anchors, if I remember right, were on the floor of the ledge and needed webbing to avoid rope rub. The third climb was to the right and followed an arete for to most of the climb. When climbing the arete, your back was facing down the gully. I can't recall if there were anchors for this thrird one  or we used natural pro for the anchors. I remember it being in the 5.7-5.9 range.

I have only climbed them on TR when guiding a high school camp group. We had everyone do Eraser Head routes, moved over to these three and then finished on Echo Wall. To set up for the arete we would climb up from the notch between Hawk and Eraser Head and step over a block to set the anchor. Then I would jump across, 3'-4', to the ledge to set a TR on the anchor for the cracks and wrap down.

There is another route to the left of these in the 5.6-5.8 range, 70'-80' (If memory serves me). I am sure I didn't FA it. It starts in the the brush and heads up a few moves to an easy seam that goes up and left and then goes right toward the top having a book on your right. There are bolts for an anchor which I first found when looking to rap off the top down into the gully. This set of bolts are not on the true summit but the right side of the normal top out for the multi-pitch climbs. Not sure if they were placed as anchors or to rap off. From their position they could be the top of a multi-pitch route on Hawk and nothing to do with the crack/seam since there is serious rope drag when pulling the rope from the gully because you go around a corner. Thought my rope was stuck a few times and had to back way up to Echo to get some movement. It would need a different set of of bolts in order to TR this route because of rope drag.

I have no idea who put in any of these routes.

John

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #62 on: October 15, 2015, 11:15:55 am »
DaveyTree-
I thought it was you who mentioned those climbs but couldn't figure out where it was discussed.

I counted two close-to-each-other anchors consisting of four hangers for the steep climbs and one for the OW to handcrack?

I suspect that the climb you did to the left to be a "lost' route called Harlot-5.6. It was in the Spencer Guide in the FA section only I believe. It was pretty well described in the Robbins Guide. You may want to confirm this since you have actually climbed it. It was a vague description but good enough to confirm I think. The anchors that don't appear to have anything to do with the route I believe are rap anchors for one of JA's routes. I kinda remember a handful of them are rap-in type routes but I am not in front of my info so can't look them up.

Thanks for chiming in. Let me know if you hear any more about these, they are pretty fun, right?
« Last Edit: October 15, 2015, 11:18:45 am by John »

DaveyTree

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #63 on: October 15, 2015, 05:16:18 pm »
When you get the description, post it up. And....yes, those routes are a good time. I will check my books and info to see if I have anythhing when I get a chance.

John

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #64 on: October 16, 2015, 07:15:12 am »
Here is the description from the Robbins Guide:

Harlot 5.6 Erb, Sam, Fred (Clean) -
This route starts just above the steepest part of the gulley on the right side of Hawk Tower.

The 1st pitch climbs straight up towards a bombay chimney passing this on the left. Belay from nobs with sling anchors.
#2. Straight up uprotected 5.6 friction.

DaveyTree

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #65 on: October 18, 2015, 09:23:57 am »
Not sure what a "Bombay" chimney is but it doesn't sound like like the route

John

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #66 on: October 18, 2015, 10:05:29 am »
Frankly, this matches better except for the 5.6 part. Exactly at "the top of the steepest part of the gulley". It is "Freebird-5.8" through here. Hard to tell in this photo but I think it starts in the left-facing flake on the right side of the shot. Obvious where to start when in front of it.


Here is the best photo I have for the line I think you did drawn in blue. The chimney is right in front of the arrow and not very "chimneyish" but more of a wide slot along the base of the tower.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2015, 10:07:36 am by John »

mungeclimber

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #67 on: October 18, 2015, 09:00:21 pm »
Not sure what a "Bombay" chimney is but it doesn't sound like like the route


Well that sounds like a cry for help, if ever I heard one. ;)

Someone needs to take him on a route with a Bombay.


Open the pod bay doors Hal!!!

susan

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #68 on: October 19, 2015, 11:38:27 am »
Sounds like a good question, what's a bombay chimney, and so I searched a second and found an answer I like:

 Calirado on Mountain Project explains:
Oct 23, 2009
"A bomb bay chimney refers to an open-ended bottom that threatens to drop you like a bomb. It derives from old bomber planes where the bomb bay doors open, creating a gaping void."

But if you only meant, what's a bombay chimney at this particular crag at Fresno Dome, I don't for sure see it. We did climb that small triangular shaped chimney which might be what is meant as bombay.

We've called Cage Match a bombay chimney, that's up at Gray Eagle left side of the gully rappel line, as an example.


daniel banquo merrick

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #69 on: October 19, 2015, 11:56:37 am »
I know what a bomb bay chimney is but not a Bombay chimney. It may be the same as a Mumbai chimney.

susan

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #70 on: October 19, 2015, 12:13:37 pm »
Oops. I should have wrote bomb bay chimney. Must have been thinking of lunch. Vindaloo, palek paneer, naan.... Oooh palek paneer could be a good name for a mossy wide climb.

susan

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #71 on: October 19, 2015, 12:20:49 pm »


Example - Jeff starting out on pitch 2 of Cage Match and climbing towards the entry of the bomb bay-ish chimney
« Last Edit: October 22, 2015, 10:06:41 am by susan »

mungeclimber

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #72 on: October 19, 2015, 12:52:25 pm »
Naan naan, that looks delicious!   8)

mike a

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #73 on: October 19, 2015, 04:53:06 pm »
Hi Jonh, if your climbing at Fresno Dome maybe look me up, i am over climbing by myself :-(, happy climbing Mike A.

John

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Re: Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information
« Reply #74 on: October 19, 2015, 07:38:31 pm »
Hi Jonh, if your climbing at Fresno Dome maybe look me up, i am over climbing by myself :-(, happy climbing Mike A.

Sure thing, Mike. We haven't been there in a while but hope to get back soon.