Author Topic: Hetch Hetchy  (Read 7258 times)

mungeclimber

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Hetch Hetchy
« on: July 09, 2013, 01:41:53 pm »
yes, I know which way is north and which way is south. :)


http://www.climbing.com/route/resurrection-of-the-dammed/

Quote
Hetch Hetchy Be Dammed: Logistics

Season: Early spring through late fall, keeping in mind that the summer months, due to the "photomultiplier" (the reservoir, which reflects intense amounts of light and heat), can be brutally hot.

Camping: Diamond O, Car-camping sites with bathrooms; $16 a night. Visit reserveUSA.com.

Lodging, eats, and drinks: Evergreen Lodge (evergreenlodge.com), near the entrance to the Park, is the Hetch Hetchy’s answer to the Mountain Room Bar in Yosemite. Full bar, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Cabins run from $99 to $259 a night.

Climbing: Despite the similarities and comparisons to Yosemite Valley, climbing in Hetch Hetchy is more backcountry than front country. No guidebook yet exists, and the approaches are long. Also, factor in the hard facts and hassles of the mandatory curfew (9 p.m. in summer, 5 p.m. in winter) and the camping ban.

A Hetch Hetchy sampler, going from left to right around the reservoir as you stand up on the dam.

Hetch Hetchy Beach
After the long tunnel, on the far side of the dam (rainy-day bouldering anyone?), you’ll find a talus slope that leads down to the beach. (That is, if the water is low, which is usually in the spring or fall.)  Here, you’ll find short, one-pitch warm-up routes created by Tim Tuomey and Nick Simon. The best are Arrrgh (5.7), Clown Mobile (5.10), Buried Treasure (5.11d), and the appropriately named A Day at the Beach (5.9). Not to mention the longer, overhanging 5.10 hand crack Atlantis, in the dam’s direction.

Wapama Rock
Wapama Mama (VI 5.10 A3-), 12 pitches. FA: Charles "Footie" Field, Forrest Rade, 1986. (See supertopo.com for topo.)

Photomultiplier (VI, 5.9, A3), 12 pitches. FA: Clint Cummins, Joel Ager, Tim Tuomey, Chris Chan. So named for the famed reflection of reservoir water that bounces onto the walls from below, heating up the routes like a solar panel.

Nose (VI 5.13a project).

Zöe Temple Area
Zöe Temple (5.10c), two pitches. FA: Sean Jones. Splitter so clean and obvious that it looks like it was picked up and shipped from Indian Creek.

Hetch Hetchy Dome
South Face (VI 5.9 A2 or 5.12c). FA: (lower half, aka Inclement Buttress) Joe Faint, Chris Jones, Galen Rowell, 1970; FA (entire route): Galen Rowell, Chris Jones, 1970.

Zeus (V 5.10+ C4/A3), 9 pitches. FA: Tim Tuomey and Clint Cummins.

Resurrection (V 5.12c), 18 pitches. FA: Sean Jones and Brian Ketron

In Memoriam (V 5.11d), 14 pitches. FA: Sean Jones and Jake Jones.

The Shire (east of Hetchy Hetchy Dome)
Two Guys From Sacramento TR Area. Great for warm-ups; five single routes,
 all to one anchor (5.7 to 5.10d).

Echoes (5.11c). Slab. FFA: Tim Tuomey and Nick Simon.

Lunar Landscape (5.11d). Hetchy Hetchy’s answer to Oz, in Tuolumne Meadows.
 FA: Tim Tuomey

Keverne and the Phoenix (5.10c), 7 pitches. FFA: Tim Tuomey and Clint
 Cummins.

Blood and Fire (5.10+). FFA: Tim Tuomey.

Kolona Rock
North Face of Kolona (V 5.9 A3). On their third try, Harding and Rowell
 climbed the 1,800-foot face of Kolona. Of the 16 pitches only, half were
 freed. FA: Galen Rowell and Warren Harding, 1971.

West Face of Kolona (III 5.8), 7 pitches. Runs up the huge right-facing
 dihedral splitting the center of the west face. FA: John Liebeskind and
 partner, 1984.

 Route information provided by Tim Tuomey and Sean Jones.

susan

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2013, 04:32:57 pm »
Cool. Great article. What's the date of it? At least a few years ago...

mungeclimber

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2013, 06:54:18 pm »
no idea. I have a printed version, IIRC, somewhere.


John

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2013, 08:00:10 pm »
Hetch Hetchy? Hmm. I am going to buy you a compass Munge.

mungeclimber

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2013, 08:18:34 pm »
Well, it is south of the northern border of yosemite, ergo, it is still soyo.

John

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2013, 08:22:09 pm »
Open a window, there is obviously a gas leak in your home.

susan

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2013, 08:30:58 pm »
Beyond Soyo can be north, south, east or west. Anyway, it's a good read, written by Doug Robinson, who mentions SoYo, and pertains in spirit to this place... It's good, read it.

mungeclimber

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2013, 10:39:18 pm »
Open a window, there is obviously a gas leak in your home.

lol

I did have a big burrito for lunch.

mungeclimber

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2013, 10:40:05 pm »
Beyond Soyo can be north, south, east or west. Anyway, it's a good read, written by Doug Robinson, who mentions SoYo, and pertains in spirit to this place... It's good, read it.

YEAH!! TAKE THAT!!

buahahaha

DaveyTree

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2013, 10:26:09 pm »
Here is another link: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1006107&tn=0

I just found out an electrician buddy will be working in Hetchy for about 6 months and will have a cabin 4 days of the week. Anyone have any topos?

YETI

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #10 on: August 16, 2013, 08:01:02 pm »
Todd Skinner Memorial Handcrack....4x green camelots would be nice 5.9b

I will see if I can find some info. 

I started a route, and after repeated whips, left a nut and bail biner about 120 up, gunning for a large pillar. NO idea where I was, HAH!

Man, I gotta go back.

DaveyTree

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #11 on: August 18, 2013, 11:51:01 am »
Tks Yeti. Looking forward to getting up there. It has always been on the bucket list but never made the time. My buddy working up there doesn't climb so if my regulars can't go I may recruit you or munge or anyone willing. I can be you belay bitch. Hahah
« Last Edit: August 18, 2013, 11:52:45 am by DaveyTree »

VM

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2014, 03:30:58 pm »
Kolona RocK!!! hOLY Shit! That is one big rock with just 2 routes, only one of which is freed. I wonder how many ascents Rowell/Harding route had. Likely not many.




mungeclimber

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2014, 03:33:50 pm »
Miwok may have more beta.

John

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Re: Hetch Hetchy
« Reply #14 on: October 06, 2014, 06:17:50 pm »
Miwok may have more beta.

True true true. He sure knows HH better than anyone and has one of the wildest climbing stories I have ever heard. Not too many people can say they survived a 150' unroped fall.

Maybe he would be interested in sharing some tidbits here?