Square Nail

[DaveyTree]

I went and did Mark Fletcher's new route he put up in April at Square Nail. It is climbers left of Elvis Wall across the gully. It is about 450' of 5.5-5.6 face. Rap in 5p of 30m or less. All anchors have rap rings and all bolts are glued in. Great first lead because it is well bolted. Mark had told me about the route at Lunesta Fiesta and left a write up on it at Metal Mark Gym. Did it once in the wee hours of the morning and again with another friend for a quick jaunt after work since the rock goes into the shade at around 5:30pm. I am sure Mark can post up his write up. We climbed it in 2p the first time and 3p the second. Little dirty but with traffic it will clean up nicely. It needs nothing but quick draws and a few long slings to keep the rope straight and drag down.

At the base of the gully when you normally turn toward Elvis Wall, go down another 5' and head west. A little precarious to get to the main rock, avoid the large poison oak bush then head down to a grass ledge. Just west of the grassy ledge is the top anchors you start the rap.

Thanks Mark for all the work. Well done, even though it is the exact line I had planned to scout and climb with Paul. Caught me sleeping. Congrats!

[mungeclimber]

bolts are glued in, or the bolts are 'glue in' type bolts? If the later, wow! Not cheap to do.

[DaveyTree]

Glue-Ins. Originally he did it with removable bolts and went back and replaced them with glue-ins.

[susan]

Nice! Enjoyed reading that. Be sure to hit it if ever go to squarenail.

[Climberdude]

Yes, they are Climb-Tech glue-in bolts.  Except for the belay/rappel bolts, all lead bolts were put in on lead using Fixe Triplex bolts.  You have to rappel in to the base, so the belay/rappel bolts had to be put in on rappel.  The bolts were later pulled, holes drilled out, and then replaced with glue-in bolts.  If doing each pitch, you only need eight quickdraws and set-ups for double bolt anchors.  If linking the pitches, which are all 30 m or less in length, then bring 17 quickdraws.  For good belay locations, I suggest linking P1 & P2 and P4 & P5.

[DaveyTree]

Took some college age students for their first climbing experience at Elvis Wall Saturday morning. Didn't stay long because of the heat but a fun morning.

Mark, had a guy and girl on your new route who said they enjoyed it when they topped out.

[susan]

Good on ya for bringing a group out to climb... Glad to hear it. I'm curious if this is something you do for an organization of some sort or as an extension of family/friends. Anyway, I'm sure you must be great at it.

[DaveyTree]

A lot of people know I climb and every once in a while I get asked to take a group. Luckily I have kept many of the shoes from my kids growing up and have enough buddies to borrow harnesses. This was a college age+ group. Had my daughter Belay me up and set some TR for them.

Good times. Once in a while someone takes to it and is hooked. Paying it forward

[DaveyTree]

Spent Sunday with Joe at Square Nail. Weather was perfect. We got in 14 routes even though we only had one harness between us (Joe left it in his gym bag). We started on Lounge Lizard and worked every route right to Hotter than Georgia Assfault.

There seems to be a couple new bolted routes that are not in the latest Kroll GB.

1.To the left of Mr Wizard is a line running on the top edge of the book. The route to its left (not in GB) has 4 or so bolts to the same anchors and about the same .7/.8 grade.

2. To the right of Mr Wizard 5.8 is a crack system which I always thought was ZigZag but realized ZigZag is the book further right. The crack system is not in the book and is a lot of fun. Prob .6/.7. Between the crack system and ZigZag to the right, is a line with 3 bolts and pro about 5.8 range.

Anyone climb the far right lower wall? I have not been over there but looks like it holds some fun stuff.

[John]

We got in 14 routes even though we only had one harness between us (Joe left it in his gym bag).

Uh, did one of you hip belay?

[DaveyTree]

Did the figure 8 on a bite and a final bite thru like you are starting the bunny ears. Makes a two leg and a waist loops that adjust. Works fine for belaying in a pinch.

[susan]

I’ve tried a harness like that and wouldn’t want to fall or take in it. Uncomfortable but good to know how to make one in a pinch!

[DaveyTree]

Hahaha. True. It is fine for belaying and worked since we were swapping ever 2-4 climbs. There was only one climb which I actually followed Joe up and used a swiss seat which is way more comfy.

[DaveyTree]

Paul and I were able to get a night climb in on Thursday eve up Mark's new route. Makes for a fun night climb and a surprisingly good view of Tollhouse, Clovis and Fresno. We enjoyed a couple cold ones on the rocks above playground ledge after. I was amazed at the number of salamanders on the approach trail, literally saw like 30-40. Not to mention the millipedes, crickets, snails and stink beetles a long with a scorpion and giant Wolf Spider on the route itself. Good time and perfect weather with clear skies.

The next morning I returned with Joe. We planned on trying to put up a route up to the left of Marks but found a single bolt and a set of anchors about 40m from the top. (Anyone have any info on these?) . I couldn't find any other bolts below or above that anchor and one bolt. I could potentially see someone running it out an entire pitch on that easy face but then why the one bolt above the next anchor on even easier climbing. I am confused and Mark Fletcher says they are not his.

I scratched our route plan since I didn't want to screw up anyone's line. Instead we wrapped down 60m from the top ledge, using a nice crack as an anchor that I dug out, further left to a gully of sorts with a small tree/bush atop a grassy area. Were able to make two lines go. Joe scored the first and better line (Beat Around the Bush) going at 5.7 with 3x and pro to #1 BD following the crack/seems. We put in 30m anchor so one 60m rope could be used for it all as Mark did.

I went up another line that start about 15-20' below Joe's. You walk out right onto some dikes rails and then head up. When I first did it I only used 3x for the 35 meters but added a bolt after since the pro was really not great. Off the Rails 5.6, 35+m. Both routes will get better with more activity to clean them a bit.

We finished up and bailed. Summit Adventures passed us on the trail as they were taking in about 25-30 people.

At some point on Friday, Joe and I both touched the same Poison Oak plant. We both got a small patch on our forearm area.

[susan]

Sounds good Dave! Glad to hear you are getting out.

March rains have me sitting climbing out for a bit, so I hope that will do me some good even though it's always tough getting back into it at first after a rest.