Tollhouse

[splitclimber]

Any snow down there at Tollhouse?

[DaveyTree]

Full moon last night......what else...go climb. Worked all day after a long week. Got off at 9pm and called Paul and met at his house. Little more wind than expected but protected on the route, Tollhouse Traverse. Had some great night critters on the hike in and the biggest wolf spider I have ever seen on pitch 2 with a foot print between 3"-3.5" in diameter. Had to use the headlamp more than I wanted since the crack was shaded from the moon by the angle of the rock but still an awesome night climb.

[susan]

Cool.... Such good memories of the few night climbs i've done, including the spectacular Lunesta Fiesta climb. I should do more. Sounds like a very good time DT. Except the creepy crawlies really do come out at night, remembering your friend exclaiming on the Whisky Bill night climb that night about a black scorpion sting.  Would have freaked me out.

[DaveyTree]

Hahaha. That was Pat. He was following Adam who was doing his first outside lead, at night, on Whiskey Bill. Then Pat gets stung by a scorpion on the first pitch. They rapped down off the first anchors and went for more beer. Another group on WB had the leaders headlamp go out. He had never done the route so he was trying to keep up to make sure he knew the general area of the belay stations. Too funny... good times.

[susan]

Wow what a first lead for a first lead. Haha... Even with that many people around and waiting our turn to climb, and even having climbed South Pillar before, it was an adventure.  Probably so for almost all of us there that night. Everytime I think back on that night one scene in particular stands out - climbing up to the top of the first half or so of the pillar and catching an eyeful of the next half lit up by the moonlight in all its glory, with the climbers ahead who seemed small on that stretch of rock, their headlamp lights cast here and there as if dancing up along with them. Right then no matter what late hour that beautiful view of the route was so worth it. All the same I think next time I'd rather try and go earlier on. Another highlight was at the end at the top, tipping back the Hu'mung moonshine raffle winnings with teammates John, Mark and Mike.

[DaveyTree]

That Hmongshine is no joke. Glad you guys enjoyed it. Hope to have more this year. We had beers in our packs and tipped IPAs at the top. Going earlier is always an option but it is usually later that the moon is overhead to light up the entire route. This year the full moon will be on a Friday night. Friday night climb, sleep in, climb all day Saturday then have the party. Should be a good time. Paul is planning the homebrew menu already. Plus we plan on camping at the trailhead which will be way better. I am wanting to try and go up Weds night, get the spot, then try for a FA somewhere on Thursday and Friday and obviously name it Lunesta Fiesta.....hahhaa

[susan]

Serial!

Yeah no doubt a climb named Lunesta Fiesta is overdue.

[DaveyTree]

Donut,  Can you revel us with the story behind K.L.AM. route.? I saw it was almost your memorial in the GB I was looking over for this Friday.

Anyone welcome to join us.

Story please

[susan]

Yes here here story please.


 Gosh wish we could get out ther this wkend, first sunny in forever but have city plans. Oye!

[donutnational]

Long ago when I was a climber and not just an old man who occasionally climbs, Andrew Stevens and I went up to climb Astroman. Neither of us knew exactly where it  went and I started up a dirty pitch which lies to the right of the actual 5.11 boulder problem pitch (I was up there a few years ago and it is now a 5.10 variation to the actual route).  After doing some dirty, poorly protected climbing I reached up and put my hand in a good jam. Unfortunately the jam was behind a loose mini fridge size block which detached.  I awoke hanging a little bit below the belay.  I was bleeding from my head and leg and my shin bone was visible inside a large gaping wound.  Andrew looked at me and said "oh my god look at your head, and your leg!"  I said " calm down I'm supposed to be freaking out and your supposed to be calm"  He quickly calmed down and we got down without having to be rescued.  Best part for me (dressed in a bloody white t shirt and being helped down the Mirror Lake road on a busy Sunday afternoon) was getting to answer the question "Did you get hurt climbing?" with the answer being some variation of "no I was ok climbing, I got hurt when I fell"  many times.  A few weeks later KLAM was done and a few months later I started climbing again.  At least that's how I remember it.

[DaveyTree]

Yikes. Glad it wasn't more serious but those always make the best stories. Thanks for sharing.

[susan]

Ouch! Good story except sorry you got hurt. Thanks for telling. Great that you kept your good sense of humor through it all!

[John]

Damn, glad you survived. I like the denial of getting hurt climbing/blaming only the falling! Funny. Thanks for the story!!

[looks easy from here]

How do conditions at Tollhouse recover adter exceptionally wet winters like this one's been? I'm hoping to go in April. Will its face be a sheet of runoff, or does the relatively small amount of dirt on top mean it doesn't hold too much moisture and it dries out fairly quickly?