Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: John on July 01, 2013, 02:29:56 pm
-
Just checking if anyone is planning on being out there and braving the heat and potential storms this weekend. We have some default climbing spots for hot weather but always interested in new suggestions.
We made it happen this last weekend but it was pretty uncomfortable at times. I would personally be OK if it was similar as far as weather but who knows.
I have had some of my favorite times in Soyo from spontaneous parties started due to bad weather, both hot and cold, so it could be fun.
Contact us on or off the site at john at southernyosemiteclimbing dot com and lets compare notes.
-
Looking not so good for a ShutEye trip for us. Need to be high elevation, cool temps, and no bugs. Almost impossible right now. Bugs were irritating up at Burst this weekend. Plus not sure if she has Friday off yet, so limited time might be a factor for us.
-
Man, no Friday off would be a bummer. If you change your mind, you know how to reach us.
-
Hi John,
Dan can't climb this weekend and Sarah's on the DL as of today, so I'm looking for partners this weekend. I would perfer to go someplace 10K feet up so it won't be so friggin hot- perhaps TM area. We were thinking GC of the Tuolumne. I can leave Gilroy Wed at 11AM.
Bob
-
Hi Bob
I saw that Tstorms are more likely North of Bishop through Saturday so the cooler temps of Tuolumne may get cancelled out. Pretty hard to find cooler temps except somewhere further Southeast like Whitney Portal.
Hopefully someone will see that you are looking for a partner. We will keep an eye out for a partner for you too.
-
OK thanks.
Yes, my only weekend to climb and I have a choice of rain or heat!
I'll take either, I suppose, to get back on the rock.
-
Somebody go climbing with Bob so I don't suffer guilt for abandoning him. I can give him a bag of drill holders and bits to take so everybody can play with them.
-
Hahaha - nice way to sweeten the deal there!
Bob, I may have a few suggestions for possible partners if no one pipes up here. I really don't know if they are still at loose ends or not, but you never know. Someone else in our small group might show up interested in partnering, too. We are all discussing where exactly to camp and climb still, anyway, imagining shade chasing and not sure what we'll find til we get there, but would include you in the emails or keep you posted if interested.
-
Aww Munge, too bad. The skeetos were a bit bad last weekend at Bowler camp at the Balls. Mostly at dusk and dawn really. It will be roughing it without a campfire which was the one thing that helped. But we are not yet sure where we'll camp this coming weekend esp since we won't know what's still available til there... hopefully somewhere breezy and not swampy. Bowler is great though. Love the tables and the fact there is a stream even if its a little buggy.
-
thx for the bug confirm. I figured it was a safer bet avoiding SE for a bit longer. Got the day for her, so may go hog wild and do something nutty like drink margaritas near the pool.
-
morning, amy and i are packed and ready to go, tomorrow morning we are going to fresno dome, thur thinking of going to the balls, fri, maybe hook up with some locals and go back to the eagle beaks, sat lost eagle, sun was thinking of going to dream scape dome, mon ???, i think the weather will be good, i have very good luck with the weather , hope to run in to some of you guy's have an fun holiday week, happy climbing mike a.
-
Sounds like quite a fun itinerary, Mike. We have some similar objectives in no particular order though. I can safely say that there will be some Lost Eagle time in there! We should follow you if you are such a good luck charm for the weather. Probably see you in a couple of those spots.
-
Here is the Mammoth forecast Wednesday-Sunday. This forecast is from the NWS in Reno which is WAY better than NWS Hanford which does Yosemite.
Don't really know of any places to escape the heat in SoYo. Usually South Park at Chilkoot is the coolest place I know. Short north facing crack climbs good for a day but needs some anchors. John and Sue let me know where you will be and I will try and come Saturday but at least visit Sat. evening and may have time Sunday.
Wednesday
Partly cloudy with thunderstorms and rain showers. High of 90F. Winds from the NNE at 5 to 10 mph shifting to the NW in the afternoon. Chance of rain 50%.
Wednesday Night
Partly cloudy with thunderstorms and rain showers. Low of 57F. Winds from the NW at 5 to 10 mph. Chance of rain 50%.
Thursday
Partly cloudy with thunderstorms and rain showers. High of 88F. Winds from the West at 5 to 15 mph. Chance of rain 30%.
Thursday Night
Partly cloudy in the evening, then clear. Low of 54F. Winds from the West at 5 to 10 mph.
Friday
Clear. High of 86F. Winds from the SW at 5 to 15 mph.
Friday Night
Clear. Low of 52F. Winds from the WSW at 5 to 10 mph.
Saturday
Clear. High of 86F. Winds from the SSW at 5 to 10 mph.
Saturday Night
Clear. Low of 48F. Winds from the WSW at 5 to 10 mph.
Sunday
Clear. High of 82F
-
Gonna be HOT!
Get sum
-
Thanks Jerry!
Here's a forecast from NOAA's clickable map at 6k around Minarets. The Balls are more extreme for temps and chance of thunderstorms.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.324577533510364&lon=-119.38319206237793#.UdO6CpyDmSo
-
Serious mutiny this weekend due to heat. Lots of swimming.
We have only like a dozen climbing photos and the rest are of swimming and drinking!
-
one of the places amy and i checked out was dreamscape domes, to check out slaters so called "best 5.8 at shuteye, dreaming in colors," ok first think it's not the best 5.8 at shuteye, and if you do not access it from the top, you will not be psyched, no trail to the base, and looking at the old write up in rock&ice on shuteye july 1990, while the valley boys sleep, the route had all ready been done, and they call it a 5.7, with no name, so strike 2 on slater, so i hope he does not think he got the fa on that, but holy cow he had that climb and the afternoon nap route as well plasted in 2 mags in the summer of 2010, like they were the best thing this side of slice bread, i have been to dreamscape a couple times before, and still a bit tuff to find the best way to get there with out bush whacking, i think even when grahm's book comes out next month, climbers are not going to go to places like dreamscape, because unless you have been there before it's super hard to find it, just the way i like it! :-), it was a hot week at southern yosemite, but we did more hiking and climbing then partying and drinking, cheers mike a.
-
.....climbers are not going to go to places like dreamscape, because unless you have been there before it's super hard to find it, just the way i like it! :-)
I am curious where you think people will go, Mike. As you know it is a very current topic by the campfires lately.
-
morning, i think they will go to the easiest place to get to the climbs, like high eagle, shangir-la, chiquito dome, chilkoot, the big sleep, crocodile rock, places like that where it's not as tuff to find and get there, but still, most of the newer climbers want someone to hold there hand and show them the way to the climbs first before they go up there thats what i think, i am psyched in some ways to see what grahmy's got to say about what he has been doing the past 6 years up there, but on the other hand, amy and i love hearing about new stuff and going and finding it on our own, i am a little choked on slater for not shareing info with me, and never getting back with me on e-mail i sent him, but last year when he wanted info from me to help with the new book, he had no problem e-mailing me then :-(, and in his 2 write ups on shuteye in the summer of 2010, he made no mention that i had a guide book to shuteye, i think with the new book some people will come out and check it out, one or two times, but after that, they will think, that it's a lot of work to find the routes,a nd that t-meadows and the valley is much easyer to find stuff, and the climbing is better, people always seem to want to go where they see other other people, i am sure you have seen it before, you are the only ones at a crag and every thing is wide open to climb, but they will come up where you climbing, and start climbing right next to you :-(, so i think all and all, shuteye will remain it's sleep old self, happy climbing mike a.
-
I guess the next debate is the definition of "easy to get to" for most folks.
-
Hi Mike, Do you have that article still? Would love to see a readable photo posted of it sometime. Maybe I'll be able to dig it up though.
Good info to access that climb from the top. Good on ya for all the climbing you guys got in despite the heat.
-
Slater is really good at bringing attention to the forgotten gems of Soyo..
I like your attitude Mike, and feel the same. I am a wanker, but like the easy stuff, and the hikes to find them.
-
This article?
http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/
Pictures aren't loading for me currently.
-
good afternoon, i sure do, amy and i
were looking at it last night, i showed her that dreaming in colors was done at least 24 years ago, it shows that some of the routes out there were already put up years ago, like all those fun sport routes on high eagle went with natural pro, before the mac divet's put them up as sport climbs, i was thinking of putting up some bolted routes back in the day on that wall at high eagle, but i could see from the write up in the rock & ice mag someone was already there so i went to the aerie to slap up a route, but thats the way it goes at the southern yosemite area, a ton of california fa's :-) lol, no one want to tell anyone, because they think they are the only ones out there :-) it's all a big secret!!!, amy and i were talking about scanning them and putting them on st, so some time this week i will hook you up with them, only if you keep it a secret lol :-) happy climbing mike a.
-
hi all, yes that is one of them, but he did one in the sierra mag as well, with some stuff grahm did as well. cheers arechiga.
-
amy and i were talking about scanning them and putting them on st, so some time this week i will hook you up with them, only if you keep it a secret lol
Mike,
If you've got original topos of trad climbs done on High Eagle, Dreamscape, or wherever, that weren't covered by Vernon back in the day, sure, we'd love to seem 'em here on this forum.
-
Yeah, save those Bombs for supertopo when the guidebook comes out, they will do more damage that way.
-
good afternoon, sure i can do that, i think the write up was by greg vernon, for sure who did the write up was one of the 3 people who wrote the old kings canyon/sequoia guide book 1993, i will scan it so youall can have a look see, cheers mike a.
-
Cool, thanks. Many of us have it, but others may not. I believe you are referring to Vernon's article "While the Valley Boys Slept".
Fun stuff, climbing history... and the frequent lack thereof when it comes to obscurities...
-
hi josh, gosh i did not think you were so cynical lol :-), ok youall, it's not chiseling, it's enhansing the hold lol :-), cheers mike a.
-
Ha@! Yeah, just keepin up with the jones'es..
Bit of history. Greg V. was a wide receiver for Penn State Football. I asked if he got diddled, he said "no, I was way too fast"
Of course this is coming from my hardman mentor, Chuck who lives with him in ridgecrest.
Classic.
-
Tx Munge. I mean the one from 90, tho.
Bombs, well, please don't bring down the McD's. They are some of the coolest and kindest of people, and I don't think they would act merely unapologetic if ever confronted with any specific case. Seems best to deal with these sorts of issues first directly if at all possible.
-
Nate-
Researching articles in old climbing magazines is really hard. There are some indexes out there though.
Clint (far out of date)
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/magindex/index.htm
More
http://www.vcrux.com/eGuides/
Some I have (linked by Clint)
http://danielmerrick.com/ClimbingIndexes/
I have copies of Climbing 140 to 207 (Oct 93 to Nov 01). I quit getting it then and haven't looked at it since.
I have copies of Rock and Ice 62 to 119 (July 94 Nov 02). Quit that too.
I have copies of Summit from fall 92 to winter 96 when it died.
Used to keep photo copies of soyo articles from the mags and had a small pile of them but can't find it.
-
morning all, i have that july 1990 rock & ice write up on shuteye on my pix i put on the fresno dome part of this web site, check it out, if you can blow up the pix you will see old routes on high eagle as well as on dreamscapre area, hope this was helpful, happy climbing mike a.
-
Hi Mike, thanks for posting that article.
BTW, the climb "Dreaming In Color" that you mentioned on Dreamscape is most likely a Jack Holmgren/Mike Bosco route called "Hawk Tower Buttress -5.7 and they used no bolts since they were not required on such featured rock. Jack described it as being on the left side of the formation and trended to the right. He even has a crude topo that matches quite well. That particular formation was also named "Hawk Tower Buttress", not "REM Tower" as you will probably see in the new guide.
There is another route there on the central formation of the Dreamscape area now called "Dream Weaver" that is clearly the route in that R&I article called "Prince of Darkness". When you start climbing POD, which I doubt the author of DW did, you immediately run into DW. There is even an original bolt that was totally ignored and is still there. I encourage people to check it out themselves.
Actually, all of Dreamscape was originally named Gavilan Cliffs by Holmgren and partner(s) but that article in R&I probably influenced it's change. The name seems to have stuck.
-
morning, yes thats what grahm told me last on my fb as well, so i am sure tom and grahm both have seen this article in r&i as well, so if they know adout the old info, why did tom call it the r.e.m. tower???, i guess it's like the aerie dome, i first heard it called ierie dome, but when the article was being put together it was misprinted to aerie dome and it's stuck ever since, but aerie makes more since anyway with most of the domes having a eagle theme, and i heard cat nap dome was first called kansas dome or something like that, but not cat nap, anyway, hope you liked what i posted, cheers arechhiga.
-
How it is all portrayed in the final guide is what I am most interested in.
-
Thanks for posting that article Mike. Can't really make out the route detail on the High Eagle Dome photo but the original will probably be clear.
Like a wish we could keep, Vernon captured something often echoed about the place where he states: "Dreams are made of places like Shuteye Ridge, where the rock and forest and the eagle blend with the pure blue California sky; where climbing is as it should be: peaceful and untouched by the braying of the over-competitive."
-
Mike,
In case you hadn't seen it, the crude original topo Jack Holmgren made for Dreamscape is here in the downloads section of the site: http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=45.0 (http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=45.0)
I hadn't tracked Jack down until after Slater had been active out at Dreamscape and broadcasted the climbs he did out there. In truth, all of us are "guilty" of advertising the "secrets" of the area in one way or another. :)
-
We have to share info now a days. Can't escape it. Guilty if you do, guilty if you don't.
-
hi all, not me!!! not mike the mouth :-), i only had totalclimbingonline web site that mega spray all the new stuff on gold/electric eagle back in 2003/2004, and the topos of the place i posted on my site, and O yah my books to shuteye and fresno dome, bysides that, i have been pretty much hush hush about southern yosemite lol :-)
-
Ha! I still have your mega spray shuteye topos from totalclimbingonline taped into my Spencer guide, Mike!
Shhh, don't tell anyone...