Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Beyond Southern Yosemite => Beyond Southern Yosemite => Topic started by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 10:57:55 pm
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This is by far the most info in one place for Patterson.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
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VIVA LA POISON OAK!!! ;D
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Very cool info... Surprised how much climbing is there. Have seen a terrible case of p.o. on a friend who caught it climbing there. So I know it's no decoy... Hahaha... Did not sound very avoidable.
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I have climbed there a number of times and only got it on two trips. The keys is knowing where to approach. D/U Dome you rap off your bumper so no PO. One Pitch Wonder is above PO. If your going to climb the actual bluff you REALLY want to rap in. If not, you will most def get it.
Black Rock Road is my favorite road of all time to drive. Cut right into the rock, similar to Million Dollar Mile in Jose Basin at times. Not a soul around. It's another Balls, Shuteye or Courtright. You wonder why it is not buzzing with people.
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If anyone is interested, there is a gathering coming together for Patterson Bluff on Nov 16-17
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2213322/Leversee-Offwidth-near-Balch-Park
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Wow! Love those photos!
Holy.... crack rack... a quantity of eight 6"-8" pieces plus three 8"-10" plus draws. Someone should get an award just standing up with that rack.
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wow, looks like this was amazing!
2nd and 3rd ascents of JCAWWS
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Balch-Fest-2013-Two-Days-in-and-Around-and-On-The-Flake-The-Official-Trip-Report/t12199n.html
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Cool pics.
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This is a cool TR. What an effort and great turnout. I'd be just fool enough to imagine wanting to try that ow sometime bc it looks so cool... Many in between goals to attempt getting through first, though. [Edited: wow, after reading some more on the follow up posts about it, prolly never gonna happen].
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yeah, PO is not my strong suit.
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I'm back after duck season ended on the 2/26.
I talked with Adam and Scott and they have made return trips since the gathering to really clear out the approach. There is a lot of climbing up there other than the He-Man OWs. Lot of stuff untouched.
The main left bluff is 10 pitches and has some epic adventures waiting to happen. Back to training since I have been off climbing for about 3-4 months.
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Welcome back DaveyTree.
10 pitches? Really?
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Sounds like a great job by Scott and Adam - saw something about their clearing poison oak riddled trail there. The area looks to offer several lifetimes of new routing.
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Very much so Susan. And with a 15 pitch big wall to boot. Scott and Adam went back and did more trail work.
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Heading to Patterson this Saturday after work to climb Sunday. Shooting for an FA or two at Road Gold or Down Under Dome. Should be a good time regardless.
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take pics or it didn't happen! :)
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I second the photo request....
have a great weekend!
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Had a great time at Patterson. Always amazed at the amount of rock up there.
Had to work Saturday and got on the road about 4:45pm. Had enough time to drive around and scout. All the creeks and falls are getting after it. Since we only had about half a day we decided on Down Under Dome. Scored my favorite camp spot and had good drinks with salad and some venison. After morning coffee and breakfast we parked above the dome and rapped off the bumper to the top anchors of No Oaky I helped put up in 13'.
Rapped down 90' to a pillar to climbers right of No Oakey and found a nice ledge. Paul rapped down as well and we pulled the rope. I had planned to rap down to the ground and climb up to the ledge but it was beyond dirty with wet moss, DG and trees. (I actually thought of you Munge when I saw it, haha) Prob will go back and clean it when it is not wet.
Only option was up off the ledge. Headed up and left slightly then up a white streak and eventually placed some anchors. Placed 3 bolts on the lead and had 2 cam placements. Called it Sunday Funday 5.7; 105'.
We rapped back down because Paul wanted to climb another line. He is new to FAs but has caught the bug. He TRd the line and I did also. We talked and discussed the best places for bolts and I bolted it on rap. It went 5.8 with 4 bolts and a slung knob for 105'. Paul lead it out and called it Tickle My Tick Head for the tick I had to dig out of his leg with a knife that morning.
Sun had heated the rock and us. It was time for beer and snacks so we head up and out. Scouted more on the drive back and took plenty of pics (which will post later). Great time with perfect weather.
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Noyce! Munge telepathic choss control is working!!!
MUNGIE THE WORLD!
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Sounds like a proper adventure. Nice job!.
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Here is where I posted the pics.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2106135&tn=40#msg2785603
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Hey enjoying your post and photos DaveyTree: Pretty shot of DU Dome, Easter pants ha ha, & anchoring off the truck! Awesome! Wouldn't that be something for advertising purposes!
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it's a fun place with no approach to several areas along that road. Never gets snow so a spot for all winter.