Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Beyond Southern Yosemite => Beyond Southern Yosemite => Topic started by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 05:57:46 pm

Title: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 05:57:46 pm
Since things are being catagorized, I feel one for Dinkey Creek Road would be good. This would include Hidden Rocks, Condome, Land of 50' Domes(Doughnut Nation), Bald Mtn., Dinkey Dome, Belly Dome and several others which the names escape me at the present. If there is descention for this thread let John know and he can kill it.

Recently went to Dinkey Dome for the first time. Will put up picks when I have more time. Great place with a ton of potential and new stuff people have put up.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2146687&msg=2147394#msg2147394
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on July 13, 2013, 04:25:05 pm
Is that stuff on the way to Mystery Lake or at Mystery Lake? 

Will be going in to Mystery soon.

Any beta appreciated.

Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on July 13, 2013, 04:33:33 pm
Especially, any beta on climbing or bouldering near the lake itself of just up from it, e.g. at Fingerbowl.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Dinkey+Dome&hl=en&ll=37.152689,-119.07639&spn=0.02538,0.038581&sll=37.151458,-119.074202&sspn=0.02538,0.038581&t=h&hnear=Dinkey+Dome&z=15
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 14, 2013, 06:56:49 pm
Sorry for late response
 I was out of the country for two weeks. Is mystery in the Dinkey lakes wilderness? I haven't hit all of those. All mentioned are on the way. Respond better once home.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on July 15, 2013, 08:39:50 am
no rush, thx!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 15, 2013, 10:27:33 am
Munge, which direction are you going in from? If you approach and go in from Rock Creek Road then you will be driving by Donut Nation(bouldering) and Dinkey Dome. In the revene of Dinkey Dome there are several other formations above and below which have little if any development that I know of. A couple are close to the road as you drive in but are hidden from sight until looking back west from Dinkey Dome. If you go out of Courtright on the east side of Dinkey Lakes Wilderness then you will pass Cliff Lake. Bouldering by lake and a the entire back side is a cliff with a ton of right slanting cracks. Did a few short ones but was with a group of non-climbers so nothing was topped out. You will also be near Dogtooth which does not see too many parties. I have not been in from NW side which is closest to Mystery. I know there is a lot of rock but don't have any beta or topos. That entire area has bouldering to be found around the lakes and small cliffs. The pics I took for Cliff Lake were on an old laptop that crashed about 7 years ago.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on July 15, 2013, 01:21:37 pm
Dinkey Lakes Trailhead, I think. Is that on the NW side? Not really familiar with the trailhead names. Just working off of online maps so far.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 15, 2013, 07:52:37 pm
There are two. One from the NW and another from the east. The east one leaves just passed the camp ground below Trppaer Dome at Courtright. I have only gone from Courtright side and there is plenty of climbing once you hit the lakes. I can't imagine it would be any different from the NW. I will hit up a couple guys to see if I can get a little more betta for you from the NW.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on July 28, 2013, 07:44:23 pm
Lots of smoke back there this weekend.

Saw a climber vehicle White Titan V8 at the trailhead.

Didn't actually climb as I forgot the spare harnesses in the garage and didn't want to make my nephews suffer a bowline on a coil like I had to. lol

In any event, there are some nice craggable lines there in the first mile.

But Dogtooth (which I didn't get to the see the East side of) is the peak to bag.

There is a 2 to 3 pitch sized formation below 2nd Dinkey lake but above South lake. Very obvious formation on sat photos.

The hiking is super mellow. The lakes are gorgeous.

The fishing was grim.

Kind of a busy trailhead despite needing moderately high clearance to reach it.  e.g. Subaru outbacks would be fine so long as you don't race the last couple miles.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 03, 2013, 05:29:01 pm
Looks like a good trip. Thought the fishing would have been better but I guess Dinkey Lakes trail is pretty popular. Spent the week in SOYO and had smoke early daily with the wind blowing it out in the afternoon.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on August 04, 2013, 09:23:09 pm
DaveyTree
Any highlights that you want to share from your entire week in soyo, you lucky bugger?
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on August 04, 2013, 10:54:03 pm
very popular trailhead. 21 cars when we went in.

lots of day hikers.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 06, 2013, 09:45:52 am
Munge, I just talked to a guy who also went the same time and was prob one of the cars you saw. Small world.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on August 06, 2013, 10:18:05 am
was he climbing?

I'd like to hear about any climbs up that way.

I could totally see going back in there.


I so wish my SD card didn't die on me.  :(
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 13, 2013, 07:35:16 pm
He wasn't climbing. He went in with his wife and kids and was fishing.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on September 16, 2013, 08:55:48 am
Had a chance to head up to Con Dome on Friday with Chris Racca. We didn't have a lot of time but we headed up after dropping our kids off at school. Drove up and got to base of dome by 10:30.

Decided to climb the first thing we came to, All Bards Hard 5.9. It is on the far left of the dome and just right of a right facing book.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_101202.jpg)

The climb felt a little sand bagged with thin face moves. Topped out and belayed Chris up to the mid ledge and had a look around and enjoyed the great view of the area and Shaver Lake.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_122554.jpg)

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_122533.jpg)

Some featured rock toward the top of the climbs to climbers right of ours.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_114035.jpg)

We talked about rapping down and climbing another route when Chris and I spotted a nice crack about 3o'-50' going up from the ledge. We decided to climb it to see where it lead.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_124728.jpg)

It was dirty and had to clean the crack with my nut tool to get pro in but was a fun 5.7 top out. Took a look around on top trying to find the registry but never found it.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_123457.jpg)

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_123427.jpg)

We walked down the left side and traversed back to our top out ledge and rapped down.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130913_130628.jpg)

Time got the best of us and we had to bail. Had enough time to stop on the road out to grab some elderberries to snack on while driving. Little sour....still need a week or two.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: NateD on September 16, 2013, 10:45:52 am
Cool stuff - thanks for sharing!
BTW, is that the top of Bald Mtn. that you can see in the view of Shaver?
Still haven't been to these places.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on September 16, 2013, 10:59:06 am
No. Bald Mtn is almost due south of where the pic was taken. That dome is what I call Belly Dome. No routes on it yet...... Most of it is a walk up but the east side has a nice splitter 5"-6" wide and some face routes that would go.

Belly Dome is what I named it after my buddy, his son and I scouted it on motorcycles. His son was on a small bike and hit a sugar pine cone and slid about 20' on his stomach and face. He was fine since he had chest gear and helmet on. Good laughs....
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: YETI on September 16, 2013, 11:03:51 am
Very cool Dave.

Nice to see those domes not often visited.

Cheers.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on September 16, 2013, 05:42:58 pm
Nice! Looks like a lot of fun to be found out there along that road.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 15, 2015, 12:32:32 pm
Got a chance to work on a project area this last Friday and Saturday. Left Thursday night for some beer and a camp fire. Up before sunrise and hit the 20 minute approach. Showed Fred Vermote around the area a bit and gave Athena (my pooch) a well deserved water break with a large ziplock and my climbing helmet, since I forgot her bowl.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_081518.jpg)

We got on a line I have been anxious to send. Started a direct route up an arete only to be shut down. Found a crack system to the right which got me up on the top of the arete via a traverse left, using a good nut placement, onto a meat grinder of chickenheads. Worked up to the top on easy climbing to top out. Fred followed to make our 1st FA of the day. All gear and a walk off. Cat's Traverse 5.7, 110'.

We then moved to the other side that looked kinda of like another arete but ended up being a crack leading to another meat grinder. Some of the biggest chickenheads I have ever seen. A few were the size of a car door! The crack was 5.9 to easier meat grinder climbing with a little bit of hail while it was still sunny. All Fun! Fred followed to top out our second FA on all gear, Hail Chickenhead 5.9, 130'.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_124834.jpg)

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_124814.jpg)

After a break and some eats we haeded to another wall. Fred imediately saw a left slanting crack and wanted a go. He led up to a shelf for p1 and then up a short book and over/side stepped the roof/book to top put. I followed for our 3rd FA of the day. We scouted on top some cool formations and bouldering as a light sprinkle started and lighting was hitting in the area. I was counting the distance of strikes and could tell it was getting closer. The next hit was really close and Fred's hair started standing up. Time to rap! We got to the bottom as lighting was echoing through our chests.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_140326.jpg)

Major down poor in seconds and we saw the water runnels turn into water falls. We ran for cover in the rocks and hung out until it became a drizzels and were starting to shiver. Fred, who is a Belgian and loves mayonaise (They eat French Fries with mayo in Belgium) named the FA Belgian Rain Dance with Mayo, 5.5 & 5.6. 150'. We were done for the day and hiked out wet. We left all our wet gear and ropes free hanging in a cave via cams since we were returning in the morning.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_153536.jpg)

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_152946.jpg)

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_155106.jpg)

We got back to camp and a cold beer was too sweet with dry clothes. Fred was introduced to the Fritto Boat which goes great with beer when it's cold. Since he was still getting over jet lag he went to bed early. I slept in my chair under the clearing skies and stars.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_183359.jpg)

I decided to take a differrent approach to see if it would be easier the next morning. It might have been had we not over shot the turn. Found some great new formations and finally got to our spot and beatuiful flowers.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150612_185359.jpg)

We were both excited to get on lines we had seen the day before. I went first and headed up friction face that met a grove with some solution pockets. Placed one bolt to save a ground fall. Pockets were a little flaring but a purple BD worked. Up to chicken heads and ledge for p1. Decided to do the head wall behind it which was thin crimps to a roof and took 2x. Suprisingly it was a fun 5.8 move over the roof with a huge side pull on a runnel. Topped out and Fred followed for our first route of the day. The pitches can go in one. Ty it Together 5.8 150'.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150613_112944.jpg)

Fred had an eye for black runnel that turned white on top. He headed up and found it was a lot of fristion and stemming with palms down. Fun climb which took 3x to the ledge. Stemming for Stella 5.7 150'.

(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20150613_134727.jpg)

It was my turn and I spotted a cool looking flake that looked easy with an interesting start and two head walls higher up. The opening moves were an off balance hug of a bulge on the flake. Easy up the flake ending in a couple face moves to the ledge. Mantles on chickeheads got me to 2nd ledge and then up over second head wall to another meat grinder to top out. Ran out of rope as I reached the top. Fred followed to finish our 6th climb, Hugging Zed 5.8, 180' all gear.

We enjoyed the sights on top and decided we had our fill, not to mention sore feet and blisters on couple of my toes. While scouting and scrambling on top one of my slings caught a chicken head and snapped my left front gear loop which I found has a stamped rating of 0 kn. I was just able to catch the gear before it trundled down.

The hike out we took a different route and found more amazing climbs for future visits. We over shot our return by just a bit and added some return steps. That beer never tasted so good.

Couldn't ask for a better couple of days in the hills.

Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on June 15, 2015, 02:14:00 pm
Great TR - what a full value couple of days - I get overly amped with the approaching buzz of lightening and resonate with what you write, "We got to the bottom as lighting was echoing through our chests." Whew! You guys sound like a fun productive team, and I love the route names! 
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: NateD on June 15, 2015, 02:18:35 pm
Sheesh, what a horrible few days you experienced! Sorry it was such a drag. Hope you don't give up on this climbing game after all that.




 ;D Thanks for sharing! Good looking finds! Finger-licking good chickenheads.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on June 15, 2015, 02:23:59 pm
Dang, and chicken heads the size of a car door?!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on June 15, 2015, 02:31:02 pm
fricking magic right there! That flower shot is real nice. Sounds perfect!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: larsj on June 15, 2015, 03:58:12 pm
Love those pics Daveytree! Haven't been back there in a long time, TFPU-lars
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun on June 15, 2015, 04:28:09 pm
Good work Davey!
Looks like a cool area.
See ya at the gym.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on June 15, 2015, 05:58:42 pm
Looks like you guys were kids in a candy store! A little crappy weather here and there surely adds to the adventure and makes for a better story later on, eh? (only after you are dried and defrosted and got over how much it sucked)

Thanks for sharing the TR!!

Sorry to hear you were attacked by a chickenhead.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 15, 2015, 11:46:01 pm
Nothing about it sucked. It was a great time in the hills. Kinda boring if it just sunny all the time. Don't think I could have wanted much else for a two day trip.

Lars, I doubt you have ever been to this place. Found it by chance with Matty when the gate to another project spot was locked. Figure I have atleast a couple years of FAs at this spot before I let it out of the bag. Def shuteye-esque with clean solid featured granite.

I should have taken more pics. With all the sudden showers of late there was a huge variety of flowers.

Here is a question off subject. Fred saw what he described as a small duck from the back waddling up hill, brown in color. He couldn't see the bill but claimed it had a long neck like a duck and was brown. He was sure it was a bird. The only thing I could Imagine was a small baby Merium turkey or the Lesser North American Chupacabra. Anyone else have an idea?
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on June 16, 2015, 07:25:09 am
Chupacabra for sure, I saw one up at the Beaks so they're around. Perhaps they are mating with ducks now and we will have some crazy looking platypus/dog type creature. I am scaring myself.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: larsj on June 16, 2015, 08:08:10 am
Maybe not DaveyTree. I thought from your view of Shaver Lake it was the ridge that also featured Bald Mountain. Lots of rock up there.-lars
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: YETI on June 16, 2015, 08:31:47 am
Very cool trip report.

I love the "leave no trace" Fa days.

Hot damn.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 16, 2015, 01:57:53 pm
The pics with Shaver is from Condone which is north of Bald on a more western road. Last weekend was a different spot.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: Climberdude on September 29, 2015, 06:11:06 pm
I am glad that there is a forum for this area.  Has anyone here done the climb "Dinkey Classic" (5.5) on Dinkey Dome?  On the second pitch, the photograph on page 56 of the SEKI guide shows it going up a dihedral.  When I did the climb I looked at this dihedral, but it did not look like it was on-route.  Rather, I went up face moves and cracks to the right of this dihedral.  I came to a notch with a vertical crack that did not feel like 5.5 going through it.  I also went another way to the left along this overlap/roof that felt more like 5.5.  Does anyone know if the original route goes up through this notch with a vertical crack or does it traverse left below the overlap/roof and then up?
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: Climberdude on September 29, 2015, 06:36:35 pm
I have done a few new routes on the north face and east face of Dinkey Dome.  If someone has done these before, then let me know.  On the far left side of the north face of Dinkey Dome, I did an easy but potentially scary climb called "Rolling The Dice For (Your) Life" (about 5.6).  This climb starts at a pine tree on the far left side about 14" diameter.  The climb is directly across the canyon from where the brown rock band starts from the granite.  The climbing up to the top is one pitch and is fairly easy with many natural protection locations, but it felt like many of the flakes and blocks are loose or loosely perched on the top, hence the name of the climb.  If you look closely, all of the blocks at the top are perched on slanting slabs.  Who knows when one of these will decide to move?  Climbed on October 12, 2014.

On the east face, I have done several routes.  I have named this area which did not have any previous published climbs the Greendale area.  The bolted route on a low angle slab that goes up, goes left, and then goes up is called "Be The Rain" (about 5.4-5.5).  This climb has nine or ten bolts.  Climbed on May 17, 2015.  The bolted route that goes straight up is called "Sun Green" (about 5.4-5.5).  This climb has seven bolts and an optional cam around 1".  This was climbed on March 21, 2015.  Both climbs start and end at the same location.  You can rappel down with two ropes or walk off to the right.

I also top roped two climbs to the right of "Sun Green", but chose not to bolt them.  I did not assign the routes any particular name, but someone can chose other songs from Neil Young's Greendale album for the names.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on October 08, 2015, 01:21:31 pm
Noice climberdude. Don't think I climbed those lines. You have any pics? I can't recall how far right I climbed. One of those lines might have been FA'd by Athena.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: Climberdude on November 22, 2015, 10:21:20 am
Daveytree,

Sorry for the late reply.  Are you referring to my climb on the North Face of Dinkey Dome or my climbs on the East Face of Dinkey Dome?  My climb on the North Face on the far left end was entirely trad, so it is possible someone did it before.  The climbs on the East Face are slab without really any protection except for the bolts I put in.  If someone did it before, then they would have been doing essentially a free solo.

I am really fascinated by Dinkey Dome.  It looks like some more climbs could go up on the North Face to right of my climb not counting the climbs on the right listed in the SEKI guidebook.  However, a lot of the rock does not look like it is firmly attached (look at the huge talus field below).  The east face has very limited climbing since the section I climbed is the only section steep enough for technical climbing.

Mark
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on February 25, 2016, 08:12:09 pm
Back from duck season and trying to catch up. We climbed the NW area on Dinkey. Definitely some more lines to be had.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on March 01, 2016, 01:45:42 pm
You climbed there in Feb?

DaveyTree, how many ways do you serve duck? Maybe I am looking for a Bubba Gump litany. Real curious your favorite ways. You must have it for days and days and for camping.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on March 02, 2016, 09:11:31 am
NO, Just late responding to climbdude.

A favorite for many is a sliver of cream cheese with a jalapeño folded into some duck wrapped in bacon on the BBQ. hard to mess that up.

Some times I will brine it with sprite for a day and then use different marinades before putting it on the BBQ.

I have some breasted with the skin still on. Salt and pepper and lay in hot pan skin up for a short time then flip and allow the duck fat under the skin to cook it and it makes the skin into almost duck bacon. Slice thinly so every piece has a little duck bacon crust on the edge. Too good.

Simpler ways are just to season it and BBQ which when cooked right is pretty darn good. This year I am planning to get a lot of it processed into jerky sticks, salami and summer sausage that I can just throw in my pack and eat on the wall.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on March 02, 2016, 07:57:10 pm
I'm hungry now. And I already had a chicken meal baked with orange glaze, green beans, brocoli, rolls and a salad.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on March 02, 2016, 09:48:13 pm
Very nice. Does sound real yummy even tho I too am full.

Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on March 16, 2016, 01:19:28 pm
Gate at Dinkey Creek is scheduled to be opened on May 1st for Courtright and Wishon.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on March 16, 2016, 04:50:39 pm
thx!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 22, 2017, 04:46:58 pm
Such a bummer. Went up to Boneyard on Saturday. we towed 4 trees out of the way and had to deal with a little snow that eventually stopped our progress to the normal parking spot. It took longer than we wanted to get there because of conditions and decided to just climb instead of trying to FA something. Went to Sugar Pine Wall, a 120' jewel with 11 routes all good. Arrived at the wall to find the giant Sugar Pine, the wall was named for, had been taken by the winter storms. It was a mighty tree that shaded most of the wall the entire day. It took out 3 other trees when it fell so the sun rules now.

The routes were still awesome! Miss my shade though.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on May 23, 2017, 06:03:10 am
It was a living tree that fell? Sounds like it made a mess. Chainsaw has been on our standard rack this year!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 23, 2017, 09:14:15 am
Very much alive last year. The only good thing about it will be the big flat sitting and gearing up rock will no longer be covered with pine needles and duff once I clear it. Curious to know what else has fallen in the area now.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on May 23, 2017, 10:23:09 am
Yup! I feel ya on the shade woes. Sounds familiar. Going to be this way now. 

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_1978_resized.jpg)
Shot a year or two ago

If it's not trees, it's streams and muck in the roads or all these things.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on May 25, 2017, 10:12:49 am
Davey when are you going to reveal the location of the mysterious "Boneyard"?.   How about at least a hint?
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 25, 2017, 10:50:51 pm
Hmmmm. Well there are prob 4-5 formations that I want to get some routes up on first. Currently there are about 75 routes and prob the same amount worth to do. It is pretty much a cragging area with 30'-200'+ Formations. Most likely just a locals spot since it won't be anyone's destination spot but great camping and seeing no one. Been a blast for me and doing a guide book was on my bucket list even if it is my one little self published thing.

I will show anyone who wants to go up and climb but will prob wait before putting it out there until I get the lines done I want. Going up Saturday for some FAs!!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on May 26, 2017, 06:13:56 am
 I'd like to take you up on that offer Davey.  Give me a call five 5 Nine four one seven 2 five 8 three.  I live near Prather, have an older toy 4x4 and I'm fat, weak, old and incompetent.  I work in a school so I'll free be most days from this weekend until early August.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 28, 2017, 06:52:11 am
Got your number in my phone. I will call next time I head up.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 30, 2017, 08:08:39 am
I did end up making it to Boneyard on Saturday (sorry donut, saw your message late) after a late start. We went to a formation that did not have any climbs. We chose one of several walls. Did a 35m GU 5.6 on a shoulder of some steeper stuff and Paul followed (Manzanita Mantle). Set up a TR off a boulder for some steeper stuff. Had a ball on 3 different lines @ 30m. .10a trad, .10b & a 5.8 that has a trash can size boulder ready to come off that needs cleaning. Fun short day.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 30, 2017, 09:15:28 am
The pic looked like good stone. Send!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on May 31, 2017, 07:45:48 am
Thanks Davey, I hope to get to see your new area.  Is it actually accessed from Dinkey Creek Road?  I have some guesses as to where it might be.  I wonder if Barry C has ever been there.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 31, 2017, 02:02:43 pm
I will show you with a blood oath
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 31, 2017, 09:53:57 pm
That's seems like a cheap deal. I mean, I've had to pay in beer, food, and belays for the goods before. Pretty sure you could get a good deal out of it DaveyTree!  ;)
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 02, 2017, 06:49:24 pm
Aha. True
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on August 16, 2017, 06:35:29 am
I am about 99% sure I climbed at the Sugar Pine Wall Sunday.  My compliments to Davey and the other developers.  We did 3 pitches all of which were excellent.  Good job Davey and friends!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 16, 2017, 12:30:41 pm
Love to hear that. If it had a large flat bolder covered with pine needles toward the base and several downed trees laying down away from the base then you were there. Glad you liked the routes. Fun Stuff.

Going up there Friday if you or anyone is interested. Planning on hitting up EOD Rock which only has a couple 5.lame free solos I did when scouting it but good potential.

Did you by chance do the route to the left of the crack? It takes a couple cams before the first bolt and has a really fun left traverse move toward the top with stacked feet on a chicken rail and no hands to clip the last bolt. We call it Funny Face because the base looks like a face profile.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on August 17, 2017, 01:40:50 pm
Gosh that must be nice to get such great feedback on climbs you put up. One day, maybe, .... someone would climb something out in the gray hood that we've done. I feel like putting up a list of recommendations, but keep neglecting to get around to it.

Anyway, good on ya! There's so much out that way it seems. Very pretty area. 
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 27, 2017, 09:36:28 am
Good time at EOD Rock at Boneyard on Friday. Pat, Ryan and Matt had a blast working some new routes. Great rock with 100' climbs. Got in a 5.8. Almost finished a .10b with a cool roof finish and did a 5.9 OW which Doughnutnation will prob think is 5.7 but my fatass made it feel harder. Can't wait to finish some of the lines we spied.

Pat is pretty new to climbing. His first lead climb last year was an FA on a rap bolted climb I put up that had like 3 bolts and the rest nuts. Fast forward a year and now at the Boneyard on Friday. Pat was able to do his first trad lead on an FA at EOD Rock, all gear. Pretty stoked for him. He really wanted to get a route up at EOD Rock. He named it in honor of a fellow EOD Tech Lawrence David Ezell (Aka: Easy or EZ) with a call sign of Hellraiser 3-7, who died trying to make safe an IED in Baghdad.

EZ Does It (Hellraiser 3-7): 5.4, 100', gear to 4". FA: Wolfe/Fries 8/25/17

I need to go back and put in rap anchors. I had to lower Pat while down climbing and then I followed.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on August 27, 2017, 09:11:17 pm
Good name.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on August 28, 2017, 11:17:20 pm
Hey way to go Pat!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: splitclimber on September 08, 2017, 05:19:00 pm
Sounds like Dave and crew have been busy out there.

All the talk of the stuff out Dinkey Lakes Road has me intrigued and I remember seeing this thread and the photos before the broken photobucket links. :(
I'll have to go out there someday to check out that stuff.

95 percent sure I'll be going into Dinkey Lakes Wilderness from Courtright next Friday.  Backpacking in with the wife and her backpack newbie friend.  Not bringing climbing gear in. :( 

Hope the fishing is better than what Munge reported and hope to find boulders and easy solo's and we'll probably bag Three Sister Peak and Dogtooth.

plan is go to in at cliff lake TH mostly so when we come out on Monday, we are right at trapper so I can get a proper climb or two in before going home on Tuesday.



Haven't even been to SOYO or Southern Sierra this season. :( 

Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on December 12, 2017, 06:39:29 am
SNF lists McKinley Grove Rd as having closed for the season on Dec. 1, anyone know if this is true?  If it is it's definitely not due to snow.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on December 19, 2017, 10:38:24 am
Well, I don't know but you got me curious enough to check a forecast, and would be beautiful even if freezing:

Today                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumsctpng.png)                                                                        44° - 26°                                                                                              Wed                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumsn50png.png)                                                                        30° - 17°                                                                                              Thu                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumfewpng.png)                                                                        34° - 26°                                                                                              Fri                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumfewpng.png)                                                                        41° - 30°                                                                                              Sat                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumsctpng.png)                                                                        39° - 27°                                                                                              Sun                             (https://cdn.apstatic.com/photos/weather/httpforecastweathergovnewimagesmediumsctpng.png)                                                                        37° - 27°                                                                                             
 
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on December 20, 2017, 06:20:51 am
McKinley Grove road closed, tamarack gate closed, bald mountain jeep trail open from Dinkey Creek side, Con dome gate was open as of last week.  I went to Kaiser Peak yesterday and didn't touch snow until around 9500' and not much there.  I wish they'd close gates based on conditions not at some random date.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on December 21, 2017, 12:17:33 pm
I'm feeling "local envy" now. Thanks. Really. One day we may relocate closer to the mts. And good to hear what's up. :)

Here, we have shopping frenzy. Freeways are crowded all day long. Bumper carts around the aisles and long lines where folks behind hit your heels, parking lots are chaos and we may be a little locked-in to holiday shop on weekends for not wanting to during the work week.



Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on February 14, 2018, 11:14:37 am
Donut, Is Condome gate still open? That is a great day spot. Ever been to the Wall on Old Railroad Grade Rd? It has Kenny routes from what I believe. No idea the name.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on February 15, 2018, 07:46:57 am
Davey,
Con Dome gate was closed as of 2 weekends ago.  Bald mountain was open from Dinkey side but beyond the abilities of me and my truck not very far from the start but near enough to good bouldering to be worth a trip even if you can't make it to the top.  Not sure how much snow came last Sunday, but probably not much.  I climbed at Tollhouse last weekend and it was perfect with nobody around while we were there.  I think I have visited the Railroad Wall and if I have I wasn't super impressed.  I've been bouldering on the northside of Millerton after work and there are a handful of good problems widely scattered out there, so if I get to climb with you again I'll be ready to go.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on February 15, 2018, 11:35:59 am
Thanks for the update. I never understood why they close the Condome gate. It has limited penetration into woods and just curls back toward Shaver Lake.

I started back into the gym last week since duck/goose season came to a close. Celebrated with Whitefront Goose Tacos and a Lagunitas Sumpin Easy IPA, Soo good. Plenty more in the freezer for dinners in the hills all summer. I am dealing with another knee tweaking when I fell off this little bridge, in waders, in the dark into freezing ass water. Yelling 'Ouch' while laughing under water at the whole thing was pretty comical and lame.

Good to know your training. I have some stuff you will enjoy at the Boneyard and many to put up. Definitely will send out the invite. 

Is the gate to Dinkey Dome closed on Rock Creek Rd? I would love to head back in there a bit this year.



Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: donutnational on February 16, 2018, 09:28:42 am
The gate on rock creek is closed just passed turnoff to Bald Mountain (from Dinkey side).  I hope you can hook me up with a duck or goose taco this summer. 
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on February 19, 2018, 01:00:13 pm
Heck yah. I have got the recipe down now. It's quick and easy and soo good.

Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on February 20, 2018, 08:38:41 am
Yumm sounds fun!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on April 26, 2018, 10:19:33 am
McKinley Grove Rd @ Dinkey opens tomorrow per the Auberry Ranger Station. Wishon and other areas will be accessible.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on April 26, 2018, 09:54:22 pm
That's good news Tx!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on April 26, 2018, 10:24:58 pm
Quote from: DaveyTree on April 26, 2018, 10:19:33 am
McKinley Grove Rd @ Dinkey opens tomorrow per the Auberry Ranger Station. Wishon and other areas will be accessible.

thx!!

Options are opening!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 12, 2018, 01:15:04 pm
Made it to the Boneyard yesterday with Fred. We were able to FA a 5.8 (Fred) Midevil Fire Cat and a .10b’ish I named 4 Blow since 4 holds broke during the FA. One sent me for a nice whip. Both fun and around 100’.

Punched a sidewall from a stick on the way out but a quick tire change and we were back on road. Felt good to be home again.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 13, 2018, 08:16:02 pm
productive.

Missing soyo.

Made up for missing it with a really good bouldering session and yard work.  :o
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on May 14, 2018, 08:49:26 am
Your route sounds terrifying with all the holds breaking off. Leave some for the rest of us dern it!! Nice job!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 14, 2018, 01:33:30 pm
I think the rest are solid. hahaha
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on May 16, 2018, 11:33:43 pm
Sounds like fun. Productive fun. Hey to Fred!


Munge the only real cure for missing Soyo is high tailingi it there. Been having a hard time making it ourselves... Projecting about projecting...
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 17, 2018, 07:16:46 am
June target time frame.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 25, 2018, 01:21:05 am
Made the Boneyard for a half day with Joe and Mark Reed on Friday. Went to Dogbone since the approach is a total of 3 min. Didn’t get a chance to repeat the .10a or .10c Paul and I put up about 3 weeks ago since Joe trad FA’d a sweet .10a crack I offered up into a corner of all hand locks into a book. Tops out at about 90’. It has a hand crack in a corner up to a roof made by a giant flake leaning into the corner. You can sling the spot with a long sling before mounting it and going up another corner to a book. Turned out to be a Super fun line he named Deez Nuts.

Mark wanted a TR on a diff line which liebacks the other side of the huge flake into a mini head wall up patina to another head wall. Prob a 5.8. Since time was thin Joe and I ran laps on an OW that went to a head wall with dicey moves. Prob .10a. Been a while since I climbed a chicken wing OW and had wished I would of had a long sleeve shirt. The OW was only about 8’-10’ long but man it felt like I inched up the thing. Fun but got you breathing hard.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on June 27, 2018, 09:33:39 am
Sounds like a great area!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 28, 2018, 12:44:31 pm
Full moon last night so Paul and I ran up to the Boneyard and got the FFFMA (First Free Full Moon Ascent) of a 2p 5.7 on Hail Wall. Fun little route and the view of the city lights from on top was actually better than expected. Left Fresno at 99 degrees and parked to hike in 64 degrees. Home before midnight. Re-named it Strawberry Moon. Love the impromptu mid week climbs!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 22, 2018, 09:53:57 pm
Adam and I went up to climb at an area I call the Echoes. Scouted it about 5 yrs ago and hadn’t been back. A gate normally locked allowed for a quicker approach. Had to jump on the dike first which has been on the to-do list for this new spot ever since I saw it from afar and thought someone left a rope hanging on the wall. A few 5.5 moves with the rest easier made for a chill FA of Beauty Mark. I followed the dike placing 2x and the rest gear in small cracks and pockets and bolted an anchor at 60m. Adam was quick to follow and I continued following the dike slanting right placing 1x and belayed him up the last 50m. Super easy 2p climb but had to climb the dike.

We scouted around and Adam settled on a 65’ Wall. The climbed ended up going all trad at a surprisingly easier than it looked, 5.8 he named ‘Fuel Pump?’

Love being able to have secret spots.

Got flicker finally so I will work on posting some pics.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 22, 2018, 10:01:50 pm
The start of the dike
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/41773590020_8277973f00_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26DoyWG)Fun new route put up at the Echoes. 350’+ dyke (https://flic.kr/p/26DoyWG) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on August 07, 2018, 04:22:45 pm
And now the above pic won't post.

I thought I had this!?!?!?!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on August 07, 2018, 05:25:06 pm
That dike looks good. I think there are more vertical dikes per climbable surface in the southern sierra than in the remainder of the state.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on April 09, 2019, 08:28:53 am
I called the ranger station. The gate at Dinkey Creek opening McKinley Grove Road to Courtright and Wishon is scheduled for the last weekend in May.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: looks easy from here on April 14, 2019, 01:06:09 pm
?!

Thanks for passing that along. How bad must it be up there? Even with the road washout last year and the massive snowfall the year before it was open by early May both years. Do you think they were just hedging their bets and it may open earlier, or is it a hard open date? I have a big family to-do up there scheduled the 3rd weekend in May. Gonna have to start looking at back-up plans...
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on April 19, 2019, 01:40:52 am
She sounded pretty confident in the date. The number is 559.855.5355 so you can call when it gets closer.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: looks easy from here on April 20, 2019, 08:30:33 am
I'll take your word for it. I'll just keep an eye on the USFS road conditions site, and I'm going up to the area the weekend before anyways to take a look around. I'm not too worried about finding an alternative beautiful, secluded spot up there, especially this early in the season.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: looks easy from here on May 05, 2019, 07:14:08 am
It looks like the ranger might have just been being conservative with expectations; USFS site says McKinley Grove Road is open: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/sierra/home/?cid=stelprdb5399344
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 06, 2019, 12:36:57 pm
I guess thats what happens when you are talking to the front desk.

Thanks for the update.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 14, 2019, 11:42:40 am
Headed up to Boneyard this last Saturday. Had to move 3-4 huge trees with cutting and dragging with truck and about a dozen smaller ones. Ended up getting stopped by a large snow drift before my normal camping area. Paul, Fred and I made the easy hike and got on some climbs Joe and I put up last year. I forgot how hard they were. I am out of shape I guess.

The snow drifts started about 6,500'. This next storm should set us back a bit with snow melt.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on May 14, 2019, 09:40:50 pm
Sounds like  fun. Would be good to check out your climbs out there sometime. And hear ya on feeling out of shape. Actually fending off flu even which is crazy prevalent for this time of year like it’s still March or something.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: sneville on May 16, 2019, 10:51:24 am
Someone posted this picture of Courtright from Saturday on the facebook climbing page.  It will be a while!  I hope we can get in there by the end of June


Why is my picture not showing up?.....Godar this website sucks!  Fix it!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 16, 2019, 01:50:38 pm
Quote from: sneville on May 16, 2019, 10:51:24 am
Someone posted this picture of Courtright from Saturday on the facebook climbing page.  It will be a while!  I hope we can get in there by the end of June


Why is my picture not showing up?.....Godar this website sucks!  Fix it!

here's the text for the photo in the meantime..

Courtright Road (photo) also remains closed, with pavement only to the PG&E switchyard. There are several miles of snow covering the road to the reservoir. No plowing is scheduled only natural melt-off. Projecting sometime in June before the reservoir is accessible.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on May 16, 2019, 03:07:26 pm
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/Courtright_resized.jpg)
Probably shouldn't post w/out permission, but here it is for now in all its glory.

FYI - Once you upload a photo, copy the filepath. To do this, first click the middle gray button called "Photo Album for Use in Soyo Site" located below the window where you compose messages. Then find your uploaded photo and copy it. Next, click the Mona Lisa icon above the compose message window for a pop-up window to open where you paste your photo filepath. BAM!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: mungeclimber on May 16, 2019, 04:29:06 pm
Looks ridable!

Not the pic I saw. The one I saw was of the road from the Sierra NF FB page. Sorry for the confusion.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on May 17, 2019, 06:31:13 am
Quote from: sneville on May 16, 2019, 10:51:24 am
Someone posted this picture of Courtright from Saturday on the facebook climbing page.  It will be a while!  I hope we can get in there by the end of June


Why is my picture not showing up?.....Godar this website sucks!  Fix it!


EABOD Big Sean!

Ask any child to help you with your technical issues
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: sneville on May 17, 2019, 04:06:05 pm
Thanks for the help guys!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on May 17, 2019, 08:08:34 pm
Yup!


I can’t believe this weather. Dagnabbit.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 04, 2019, 10:01:58 am
Was able to get up to the Boneyard this last weekend. Had a good size group camp out and most were pretty new to climbing outside. Was able to get everyone on some climbs between the various spurts of rain and a bit of hail. Not able to work on anything new but still fun to climb. Never saw another soul but those in our group.

Left Sunday afternoon and it was 48 degrees and got back to Fresno's 88.

Can't wait for the weather to let up on the weekends. The thunder clouds every afternoon has kept the mountains wet.

Also heard from a source that the road to Courtright is clear and a vehicle can drive through but they are not opening the gate yet.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: John on June 04, 2019, 10:34:47 am
Quote from: DaveyTree on June 04, 2019, 10:01:58 am
Also heard from a source that the road to Courtright is clear and a vehicle can drive through but they are not opening the gate yet.

Remind me, where is the gate again? It it where you turn off of McKinley Grove Rd?
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 04, 2019, 04:18:45 pm
It is a little further up I believe past the turn for the street for the worker's housing, If my memory serves me. Need a moto.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on June 06, 2019, 12:17:12 pm
I called the USFS and they indicated there is still a lot of snow and would be surprised if the road to Courtright was opened by July 1
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on July 01, 2019, 09:28:52 am
I was able to get up to the Boneyard this last Friday with Joe. I love these long daylight hours. We were able to get on some lines I have been wanting to get at. We each did a 70' approach climb to the base of some 35'-55' aretes and placed an anchor, 5.7 and 5.9. which each took 2x and slings. We placed an anchor and worked the upper wall. A fun left facing book went all trad 5.8 with an optional TR on the face to the left about the same grade. The arete on top of the book went about .10a with a crux top out move with some great exposure, 3x. A hidden arete to the right of it went 5.9, also with good exposure, 3x . We began work on another arete  to the left of the book that is in the 11s. Back to the truck to celebrate with a cold one. Looking forward to the next trip up there. Spied additional lines I had not been able to view before.

Talked to a friend who works at the Wishon store. Courtright is all good for climbing but higher elevations still have 4'-5' of snow in shaded areas.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: susan on July 09, 2019, 10:21:19 pm
Cheers! Sounds like a lot of fun!
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on November 25, 2019, 01:52:30 pm
I have been getting up to the Boneyard a bit the last month. Paul and I went up early yesterday, Sunday, morning to finish a couple projects. Got them done and worked on the trail before bailing back to yard work, home before noon. It was 29 degrees on the drive in but warmed to the high 30's low 40's for the climbs. I am expecting the area will be shut down after this coming storm.

On a side note, went to a showing of Reel Rock 14 in Sanger. Great show/s. Lotta laughs and sweaty hands.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 11, 2020, 08:40:39 am
FYI Gate opened on the 1st for McKinley Grove. Lotta traffic of people trying to flee the covid zombies.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: splitclimber on May 11, 2020, 01:55:30 pm
do ya think courtright will open this week?  too much snow?  thx.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 13, 2020, 01:30:59 pm
I am not sure. If you call the Wishon Store they will have a better idea. Very little snow on the back roads around 7,200’ last weekend. I would imagine it shouldn’t be long.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: splitclimber on May 13, 2020, 01:43:13 pm
thanks dave
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: splitclimber on May 13, 2020, 03:38:30 pm
no answer at Wishon.  I check the SNF website road status and it says courtright is closed.
Title: Re: Dinkey Creek Road
Post by: DaveyTree on May 10, 2021, 09:09:28 am
The gate at Dinkey Creek was opened on May 1. Very little snow to no snow around. A buddies friend has a property at Courtright and a key to the gate. He was able to drive to up all the way to Courtright but had to dig out a few drifts. I imagine the gate to Courtright will open early this year with the lack of snow.