Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Southern Yosemite Categories => Fresno Dome Area => Topic started by: DaveyTree on June 07, 2013, 08:28:27 pm

Title: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 07, 2013, 08:28:27 pm

Took my son(back from college) and my sixteen year old daughter on their first multi-pitch climb up South Pillar today. They had done a bit of TR and gym stuff before. Had a blast and we had a lot of laughs. http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_133241.jpg.html?o=5&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_133241.jpg.html?o=5&newest=1)
Top of first pillar

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_140209.jpg.html?o=8&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_140209.jpg.html?o=8&newest=1)
Up 3rd pitch

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_140438.jpg.html?o=14&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_140438.jpg.html?o=14&newest=1)

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_144253.jpg.html?o=22&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_144253.jpg.html?o=22&newest=1)
Lunch time

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_150146.jpg.html?o=29&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_150146.jpg.html?o=29&newest=1)
Hip belaying across the gully on top

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_133241.jpg.html?o=5&newest=1 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_133241.jpg.html?o=5&newest=1)
Chillin in the shade belaying me.

http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_121611-1.jpg.html?o=0 (http://m1119.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Nozukes/20130607_121611-1.jpg.html?o=0)
And just had to use the monkey fist

Thought I had the photo posting down, using my daughter's MacBook Pro, diff from work.

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: NateD on June 07, 2013, 10:08:42 pm

Priceless!
Love the monkey fist pro. I might need to put one of those on my rack. Along with the wide wood wedges I still need to make.

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on June 07, 2013, 10:19:55 pm

The South Pillar at Fresno Dome is, IMHO, one of the the finest climbs on the planet. My friend Doug Robinson seems to think so too. Second place would be South Crack. To me, hard does not equate to good. The South Pillar is interesting with steep knobby face, A huge lunch ledge and a slightly awkward down climb bit for spiciness. The hardest move is the start which is as it should be for all climbs. Doug insists it is Wamello not Fresno Dome.

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 07, 2013, 11:30:41 pm

I love that climb as well. I teach a week long climbing camp each summer and always take kids up it. Today was nuts, tricams and slings only......and the monkey fist!

Never used any wooden wedges. That sounds cool. I need to check one out. Pic?
Got to love a 4-5 pitch climb with so few bolts on good protectable huge chicken heads for lasoing.....

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: John on June 10, 2013, 07:23:39 am

Looks like a really fun day. Thanks for sharing it with us.

That monkey paw is awesome! Do you know how to tie those or do you keep one pre-pawed on your rack?

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: susan on June 10, 2013, 11:37:06 am

Very nice - looks like a blast!

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: NateD on June 10, 2013, 01:33:13 pm

Quote

That monkey paw is awesome! Do you know how to tie those or do you keep one pre-pawed on your rack?

I'm sure he ties them on lead, one handed, from stance only.  ;D

DaveyTree - I never got around to making the wood wedge/cam wheel thingys. Only drew sketches. I was basically looking to use 'em to protect wide shallow runnels that have a slight lip, which can be encountered on some formations. Kinda tricky, but I did get Big Bros to work pretty securely in some grooves.


(http://www.supertopo.com/inc/zoom.php?dpid=PTo0PTo2JiYq)

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 14, 2013, 12:25:57 pm

Monkeys paw on the rack. Have a couple sizes but usually only take that one. Takes me a while to.tie em right and tight.

Nate, I am intrigued. Love rogue gear.

Driving back from week in Reno. Tried to hook up with a partner but no luck. Ended up meeting a gal at a gym who used to live in Yosemite and did FA of Bad to the Bone on El Cap In. '83-84. Cool  hear about her 5 day ascent. She still climbs. Her first wall was Lurking Fear only because the Shield was a water fall every day because of a huge snow year in '83.

Hope to be back on the rock next weekend.

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: mungeclimber on June 14, 2013, 02:19:53 pm

Quote

FA:August 1984. Jay Smith, Lidija Painkiher

For BTTB

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 14, 2013, 11:43:41 pm

Yah that's her. Very cool gal. Peanut of a girl and still climbing hard.

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 10:51:25 pm

And here was first Fresno Dome trip this year

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2116561/Fresno-Dome-Trip

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: NateD on June 24, 2013, 11:03:45 pm

I recall that one. You climbed mostly Jerry's routes at Hawk and Upper Willow. The man sure has a great eye for good lines!

Title: Re: First Multi-Pitch
Post by: DaveyTree on June 25, 2013, 06:44:20 am

I love actually knowing who put up the routes I have climbed. Tks.

Jerry, nice routes. Those are some fun lines! Tks for those. They get a lot more use than advertised.