Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Balls Area => Topic started by: John on June 04, 2013, 08:31:24 am
-
Finally climbed there. Fun, featured rock.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000525_zps7091d404.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000525_zps7091d404.jpg.html)
Wanted to do Left Ski Track but saw the crack start and figured we didn't have the rack..or correct shoes...etc.
Once we saw it we really, really wanted to do Arch-A-Poko but it wasn't very inviting to get to the base from where we were so we did what we thought was Kev's route,"Two Wounded Soldiers". It turned out to be "Get Into The Groove". Fun route. Two really long, mellow pitches on great rock and a leisurely and scenic walk off.
Crux bulge:
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000554_zpseaff65b8.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000554_zpseaff65b8.jpg.html)
Old piton on the route(not on the topo)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000563_zps41202ceb.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000563_zps41202ceb.jpg.html)
Nice descent
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000607_zps38469a02.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000607_zps38469a02.jpg.html)
-
Very good! I have driven by that thing a thousand times and never set foot on it. I need to do so.
-
Cool. Where on the route was the old pin?
-
About 50' below the bolted anchor, to the right of the groove. Old Chouinard KB.
-
Those Ski Tracks do look inviting but I tend to shy away from routes put up by Higgins. What crack gear were you lacking John?
I have a note in my book, Planet Granite 5.7 300' rt of Left Ski Track, 5 pitches up water groves.
Didn't Matt S put a couple of routes up on that face?
-
Hi Jeff - I know you asked John, but he might be a while responding bc of work. We brought mostly small single cams, except a #4 I snuck along. Not sure which size cams he eyeballed needing but more than 1 of same size would be better. We were looking for something more mellow anyway bc I had a freshly tweaked chest/lat muscle from the day before (getting better already).
-
Also, there's an anchor at the top of another climb nearby that, unless I'm mistaken, could be used for this crack if a climber rather not continue to the ski track and just wants to climb that lower crack.
-
Glad to hear your getting better already, must have been pulling hard the day before???
-
Jeff,
Spencer's Planet Granite is quite a bit right of Get in the Groove. It's pretty much a solo, with only anchors, and was used for guiding, if I'm not mistaken. Two Wounded Soldiers is likely closer to Get in the Groove, and Jerry has a route starting right of Planet Granite, and possibly shares the last few pitches. He would have to chime in and verify, as I haven't been up there. Kev could speak to the vicinity as well.
Matt has done quite a few routes all over the dome.
Here are Spencer's notes on routes he did after the guidebook was published.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MrexIYN2lwk/Ua5ADyZAOuI/AAAAAAAAAIE/sl0DrKM6Tns/s912/Nightwatch_MarkSpencer.jpg)
-
We were looking for something more mellow anyway bc I had a freshly tweaked chest/lat muscle from the day before
Doesn't the crux of Get in the Groove have a .11d/.12a move, or did you do the alternate easy way that skirts around that part?
-
We were looking for something more mellow anyway bc I had a freshly tweaked chest/lat muscle from the day before
Doesn't the crux of Get in the Groove have a .11d/.12a move, or did you do the alternate easy way that skirts around that part?
We did the direct way and had a different experience with the difficulty than Matt did.
-
11d/12a=mellow????
-
11d/12a=mellow????
We did the direct way and had a different experience with the difficulty than Matt did.
-
We did the direct way and had a different experience with the difficulty than Matt did.
:) Well that's about as political as it gets. So... what would you rate it? No answer is fine too. I reckon you have a different experience with the difficulty of many routes, most esp. mine. ;D
Rope soloing with a power drill in tow can be pretty hairball I reckon. Matt gets after it.
-
I know, I know....5.9
standard
-
Good one Jeffe!
Everything is casual 5.9, from behind a cold brew.
-
No one ever agrees with my ratings anyhow.
-
Don't want to give away the farm (edit - i mean post unwanted beta).... So all I'll say is the way I went, while it was tricky to set up for, seemed the clearest way to me do the route. I wouldn't have called that way easy. As far as ratings, who knows...
The main thing I would note is that a snug belay of the follower at the beginning may be advisable since the crux is right off of a ledge... and climbers will be out of eachother's view. Anyway, it is a fun route!
-
Glad to see I'm not the only one to scribble all over my SEKI guide.
I know Matt put up two 5.7ish routes on Nightwatch. One called The Way and can't recall the other. Try to find the Topo he sent me and will post if Matt OKs it(which he will).
I did The Way for my first route at Balls shortly after he put it up. Fun and easy.
-
I have updated topos of the routes that Matt did as well as a couple that we put up on Nightwatch, I'll get them out in the next few days.
-
Thanks Jerry. I will show you my current topo next week and we can compare notes. It is a mess right now but will clean up nicely.
-
Glad to hear new stuff going at Balls. That place is truly special. My buddy Lon and I always talk about going back to put in a few lines. Would.love to check out your routes Jerry.
After we topped out on Nightwatch, I saw this smooth verticle face on the north side as you walk east. It had a crack system that looked like a lightning bolt. Looked thin, hard and and very cool. Anyone tick that thing yet?
-
Heading to the balls this Friday. I have a few I want to do but wonder if ya'll have some better ideas.
-
Cool - I've barely scratched the surface but understand John maybe pm'd you?
-
I have yet to climb on Book of Revelation so going to give it a go. Should be a good time. Can't wait.
-
trying to get out there in two weeks.
cool thread and TR on ST
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=647391&tn=0&mr=0
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Two-Wounded-Soldiers-on-Nightw-tch-Dome-7-24-10/t10776n.html
is this pic posted by B Schmitz the line for Two Wounded Soldiers?
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/4/18/163342_4884_L.jpg)
-
It is drawn a little off in that photo. The upper runnel you can see in the photo is Planet Granite. Two Wounded Soldiers (TWS) runs about 30-40' to the left of PG. I haven't done TWS but have done PG and you can see TWS off to the left. Looks great up there. PM me if you need more info on Nightwatch.
-
John, In that photo of the piton.......I do believe that might be my carabiner also in the photo........looks like my colors....mmm.
-
Walk Off?
-
You can walk off of a point at the far right end of the formation. It requires a little butt-slip down to some bushes to gain the easy terrain. The taller right-end summit that is the end of climbs such as The Way requires more inspection to find the most comfortable path to down climb a move or two. The right summit down climb is on the left side of the summit. There is so much newish activity on that end of nightwatch there may be an anchor by now but the walk off is easy.
There is a trail down the right side of the formation.
-
Thanks John,
Nameless Face to Planet Granite was damn good
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Vacations/SUMMERFUN/General-Climbing/i-srtk4sg/0/87626ca5/X2/20200531_104128-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Vacations/SUMMERFUN/General-Climbing/i-rdwpgH9/0/dbe3558a/X2/20200531_124431-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Vacations/SUMMERFUN/General-Climbing/i-K79VgL4/0/6743d595/X2/20200531_135032-X2.jpg)
-
Thx for pics! Good stuff!
-
I finally ventured out to Nightwatch and climbed a number of routes on the main steeper face. I climbed what I thought I was Left Ski track, (the left water runnel of the 2 obvious runnels on the rightish side of the steeper main face). The climb has been fully bolted and is a full on sport climb for 2 pitches. Climbing into the water runnel off the ledge was tough, I though maybe 5.11- for about 15 feet and then somewhat sustained 5.10 climbing for several more bolts before the difficulties eased.
Its honestly mind boggling to imagine doing that pitch with no bolts as Tom Higgins must have. He also described it as having one 5.9 or 5.10 move, My question for the SoY sages is
1) Was Tom Higgins just that big of a bad ass that he described 5.11R as one move of 5.9 and did that thing with no pro?
or
2) Is left ski track actually the solitary water runnel in the center of the face which looks more moderate?
or
3) Is the move actually 5.9 and I am just way more out of shape than I thought?
-
Grahm Doe clarified my confusion regarding left ski track! I was on a new route to the right of ski track which tackles the water runnel direct, and is indeed 5.11-