Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: John on May 31, 2013, 07:47:55 am
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No really, just photos of knobs.
Chickenheads, knobs, fins, etc. There are more names, but I am drawing a blank right now.
Some are so big I am not sure what to call them.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000423_zps5f9aa5f3.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000423_zps5f9aa5f3.jpg.html)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1040160_zps43a162af.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1040160_zps43a162af.jpg.html)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/007_zps382bed57.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/007_zps382bed57.jpg.html)
"happy climbing"
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P10105722_zpsa6bfaa6c.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P10105722_zpsa6bfaa6c.jpg.html)
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Weapons of mass destruction. Don't even think about falling in those mine fields.
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Weapons of mass destruction. Don't even think about falling in those mine fields.
And if yer really unfortunate, weapons of ass destruction. Bada bing!
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If you fall and one of those things gets impaled in your ass is it still free climbing or considered aid/hooking???
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Platebarnacles
god, that's a good name for a route!
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/8758510438_20b137870c_c.jpg)
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This thread cracked me up. That would definitely be aid.
Coolest thing is being able to cam place between solid knobs.
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Ah, this is an alluring thread - and surprisingly started by someone who I recall saying something to the effect of how he despised all those &#@% knob fields everywhere at Shuteye, as they make the steep climbing too easy. ;D
Well that's exactly why a mediocre climber like me likes 'em so much! Not to mention the added bonus that they minimize the need for laborious bolting!
Some are so big I am not sure what to call them.
Gargoyles?
Here's Jerry on a big fin:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oaJN4DKLewM/UajX8pw4aLI/AAAAAAAAAHg/HB5TBjG7kAw/s912/0360158194028_R.jpg)
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John,
Where are the vicious looking knobs in the obligatory "happy climbing" shot? Upper right side of Grey?
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Nate
Without looking it up, I think it is either Rainbow Connection or Escher's. There are some "knobs" on the North end of Gray that are like totally like giant gargoyles.
You could play hide and seek amongst them.
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exaggeration? hide and seek? dang
plateacles?
knobacles?
Interesting thought on the geology... it seems that the knobs are mostly on the lower angle terrain. Not that there isn't steep knobs, cuz there is, but most of the really good knobs (incut) are on the low angle space, it seems. This makes me think the corrosive/eroding aspect is a product of snow and the solidity of the rock, more than mere run off playing against the solidity of the rock.
any geologists have theories on this?
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Been trying to get you to come out to places where there are lots of steep knobs. Lost Eagle is just one example.
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The knobs seem to become more plate-like on steeper terrain, and more ribbed, rounded, horn-like, and just plain strange on the lower angle rock.
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Lovin this site and all the current input and not randon BS, Just climbing.
I have to say I like knobs and holes. Natural pro you can sling. Probably because I need more to hang on to or because most of my climbing is up 168 and horns like those arre far and few between. All this rock porn has me re-thinking my plans and projects.
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DaveyTree
We all look forward to hearing and seeing what you do on your Soyo adventures too. Glad you are enjoying the site.
The absolute best thing about Soyo are the climbs protected by only using the features.
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Probably the best known knobs-only crag, Melting Wall of Lost Eagle.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000820_zps7b5be8ac.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1000820_zps7b5be8ac.jpg.html)
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What a zoo.
Ger nutting in the knob clusters
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kiTmPqgmS84/UajYoqV6AjI/AAAAAAAAAHo/dEXNyb4Kpw4/s1152/Setting%2520A%2520Nut.jpg)
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most of my climbing is up 168 and horns like those arre far and few between.
Davey - isn't there some knobs up at Bald Mtn. and vicinity? Maybe not slingable (new word).
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There are a few here and there at diff rocks. Some good ones on a project dome been working but not near the extent of entire walls like SOYO.
Bald Mtn is the only Dome up 168 I haven't been to. I always thought it was face. Might have to tick that.
I actually use 'slingable'. Haha.
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Maybe I'm mistaking Bald Mtn. for some pics I recall seeing somewhere online of Condome. Never been to either, so what do I know...
I'm sure slingable is in some sort of climbers's dictionary - I know I didn't invent it.
Hmmm, but it's also the urban dictionary: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=slingable
I prefer lassoing knobs, myself...
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Lassoing is a good one. Makes it sound more desparate....
Condome is cool. There are a couple sporty routes up an area of gold colored rock that has some small nobs which remind me of the small wall on the east side of Nightwatch on the decent. Most of the Condome ones I remember are more water runnel areas with have created more side pulling flake/nob holds. Condome was my very first FA, 'Beginner's Play' with bolts that Dwight Kroll loaned me by hiding them in the weeds at his front gate off 168.
I have a pic and will post once I figure out how.
Sort of figured it out;
(http://mob1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/PicsArt_1369116066775.jpg?t=1370479744)
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With so much climber jargon, I don't even realize when using it much... til a non-climber I'm talking with gets that glazed-eye look. I remember a group of us going to a Mexican restaurant after climbing Chingando - got a lot of hard stares discussing climbing that night.
Here's a fun field of knobs
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/elfdelk.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/elfdelk.jpg.html)
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I remember using a nut on a small knob like a bolo tie somewhere. You slide the nut part down, put the loop over said knob, then cinch the nut snug against the knob. It is the same technique you use for rivets or old bolts with the hanger missing.
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Nice, John. But would you have taken a whipper on the little thing? ;D
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Looks like some fun ribs there, Susan. FA photo? I think I spy a hammer.
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Yes, it is Elf Boot above the boot.
Was looking for a photo of cammed knobs which this photo has a few of, but they aren't really visible. Actually, one of the cams, john later told me came out... The others were good though, and the rock solid.
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Nice, John. But would you have taken a whipper on the little thing? ;D
Ya know, there is no reason that wouldn't be bomber but I picture doing that on something like a sandstone knob and might re-think about falling on that rig.
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Does all of that gear make my butt look big?
And all I really needed were a few nuts and some tie-off slings for this pitch. But when you are headed into the unknown, best to be prepared I say.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GVxvLQkjHGQ/UbAQYvXMogI/AAAAAAAAAIg/nOXsKzg357k/s1280/DSC04238_2.JPG)
pic by Leo
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Good thing you got rid of those pesky slings. They seemed to be weighing you down.
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That IS quite an array of gear! Nice shot, Nate! I guess the big bros will fit over the knobs, and if you run out of slings you can string the gear together... :)
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Bomber and somehow equalized too.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1050140_zpsebe46d98.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1050140_zpsebe46d98.jpg.html)
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Nate, can't say I noticed your butt. But damn brother, you gots some nice legs.
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Golly, thanks Jeff (blushing). Some friends just call 'em toothpicks...
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/P1100246.jpg)
Holes near knobs good for gear
Though many knobs are bomber, it's good to test especially the softer/larger grained rock type and have seen some with not obvious fracture lines.