Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Beyond Southern Yosemite => Beyond Southern Yosemite => Topic started by: Aaron McDonald on May 15, 2013, 04:12:42 pm

Title: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 15, 2013, 04:12:42 pm

Wondering if anyone has information on camping at Courtright.  I have taken a look at the forest service site and it states that PG&E runs the camp grounds. I called the ranger station and was told that they open up on memorial day.  I am putting a weekend together with some friends and want another option if the campground is closed.  Any suggestions?

Thanks

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on May 15, 2013, 04:45:37 pm

We've camped on the side where they don't charge fees which is to the right when you arrive at the reservoir, instead of leftward to the pay camp. It's nice... but appears the nice spots can fill fast.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on May 15, 2013, 04:56:42 pm

At the res:

Across the dam is free-for-all. The rest is regulated. Across dam is way gooder.

Or camp a little bit before the reservoir which I believe is free forest service free-for-all too. Also gooder.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on May 15, 2013, 06:15:23 pm

rumor control was that the Forest Service posted some signs for no camping over by Power Dome (across the dam).

that is the best place and fills fast in the good season, since you can walk to Power Dome from there.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on May 16, 2013, 06:45:04 am

There is parking exclusively for a day use geological exhibit behind Power Dome but a 10 second drive further you can camp for free but there are really limited options in the peak season. The campgrounds are, well, campgrounds. RV's, etc.

Seriously, just camp before you get to the main res area where it is unregulated. There are some hillbillies around but don't dress too purdy they will not find you attractive and leave you alone.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 20, 2013, 10:11:17 am

Thanks for the beta!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on May 20, 2013, 10:21:43 am

pics Aaron?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on May 20, 2013, 05:20:45 pm

Courtright is this weekend and I will be sure to post.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on May 20, 2013, 06:28:35 pm

sorry got my dates mixed up when I saw yer post

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 13, 2013, 12:57:19 pm

Hoping to see some posts on Courtright. Anyone have some most recommended areas and climbs?

I found a couple from a trip we took one stormy weekend last year.

(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1010430.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1010430.jpg.html)
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1010263.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1010263.jpg.html)
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1010246.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1010246.jpg.html)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 13, 2013, 01:58:43 pm

hi, it looks like you found nosferatu, amazing climb 5 stars for sure, i start from the ledge have the belayer   belay from the ledge, either way still awesome climb, hope you had fun and my book was helpful, happy climbing arechiga.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 13, 2013, 02:03:54 pm

O sorry, thought that was aaron's pix from his trip last month, there is a new 3 pitch route to the right of power dome looks great, it's called swiss cheese, the dude who put it up post some stuff on it on rockclimbing.com he said it goes at 5.9, i am psyched on checking it out this season, cheers.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 13, 2013, 02:12:06 pm

Thanks Mike. Sounds good! I had forgotten the name of the climb Nosferatu. It is a really good one. Have yet to climb on Power Dome. What a massive dome. Got there just in time for thunder and lightening. It was very cool just being there anyway.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 14, 2013, 12:39:05 pm

I saw pics.of Swiss Cheese. I believe Kroll or Chambers put that up. Kroll working on new guide for Courtright and Wishon. Down and right from Power is Not Power Dome. I think it's 3 pitches.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on June 14, 2013, 02:34:38 pm

Is Not Power Dome worth the approach?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 14, 2013, 11:47:50 pm

I haven't been there. Only saw pics on another of the sites. Looked worth the approach. Flydude on the taco, Kroll, would prob give more beta.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on June 20, 2013, 07:11:23 am

Ran into a photo of the right end of Power Dome and further.

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1010325_resized.jpg)

Trapper

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1010283_resized.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 20, 2013, 08:27:49 am

going to courtright on july 19th to go check out that new climb, swiss cheese on not power dome, looks fun, that flydude posted on rock climbing.com, e-mailed him along time ago for some beta on like the easy way to get there, and maybe a topo on the climb, but he never did get back with me on that, anyway i am sure i can find it, if any of you are going to courtright this season check out a route i put up years ago, it's called water pipe, 5.10c, 10 clips, 100' to the anchors, great route with 3 cruxs, it's down the p.g.&e road where you park to go to tiger wall, go all the way down the raod to where it flattens out a small pond to the left, and you will see a big water pipe, and just before the pipe look to the wall on the right, and you will see my route, cheers mike a. ps yes i did it ground up :-)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on June 20, 2013, 08:50:21 am

Thanks Mike
Must be to the right of this big pipe?

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1010312_resized.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 20, 2013, 09:01:14 am

wow, super cool pix, a little bit before that tree in that pix, can't miss it, it will be the only bolts you see to the right.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 20, 2013, 08:24:32 pm

I will email flydude and see if I can get some beta on Swiss Cheese

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 21, 2013, 05:19:16 am

cool thanks :-)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 21, 2013, 10:12:55 am

You ever climb Nozukes on Penstiman Dome. I remember it being .10b. Good climb and I cried while belaying.

The first pitch goes up a crack system past a ledge. I wasn't sure which direction to go so I belayed my buddy to the ledge. He decided to to keep going. He went right up an OW instead of left. He moved further right out of the OW onto this nose. He bear hugged with legs and arms and dry humped the thing like an inch worm to get by it. He was so tired when he got to a place for pro he looked like he was having a spasm and it took forever to get the cam even close to the horizontal placement. I was laughing so hard from him dry humping and making noises that should never come fom anyone climbing that I fell to my knees. I could barely see through my tears to belay. I still laugh about it.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 21, 2013, 10:56:44 am

Hah, love it.
That formation does look really good...

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 21, 2013, 12:16:21 pm

penstiman dome is great for doing alot of climbing in a short amount of time, couple years ago, amy and i headed up to climb rope-a-dope 5.8, classic!!!, and on the way up, we past, shake the flake, 5.9, so we did that on the way to do rope-a-dope, awesome route, and when you are on the top of rope-a-dope you are on top of the dome, so when you are rapping down you can climb a bunch of the other routes on the left and right of you, i think we did at least 10 pitches in a little more then a 1/2 of a days time, left plenty of time to hang out at the lake for a swim and a cold beer, i have been to penstiman dome a bunch of times, and every time i have been there, never saw another person nor climbers there, amy and i really like that dome, psyched on going to courtright next month, it's the place on amy's b-day weekend we became a couple, we climbed little nukey on her b-day, so courtright is a very special place to us :-), it's a lot like shuteye, amazing and beautiful place to climb, but hardly any climbers go there!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on June 21, 2013, 01:30:41 pm

Quote from: mike a on June 21, 2013, 12:16:21 pm

...it's the place on amy's b-day weekend we became a couple, we climbed little nukey on her b-day, so courtright is a very special place to us :-)

Romance at the res!Nice Mike.

Speaking of climbing romance, we have a friend that proposed on "Commitment" in the Valley. That was supposed to be part of their grand climbing romance story to tell their grand kids, but it unfortunately didn't work out. Bummer.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: NateD on June 21, 2013, 01:36:57 pm

wow.  :(

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 21, 2013, 02:21:47 pm

O that was a long time ago and they are all better off now.

Wow, Penstiman comes highly recommended. Very sweet story.   

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on June 24, 2013, 07:36:50 am

I just moved this thread to it's own category under "Beyond Southern Yosemite"

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on June 27, 2013, 04:08:22 pm

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2374/2360626942_5064e240c6_b.jpg)

uber on Power Dome a few years ago

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 27, 2013, 04:51:11 pm

Great pic Munge. I like the pics showing the creek below. Very cool.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 01, 2013, 06:27:31 am

I think we may need to make a trip out there soon. All this talk of Courtright has gotten it on my mind.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on July 01, 2013, 07:07:05 pm

Yeah Munge, that is a great shot. What route?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on July 01, 2013, 10:54:19 pm

I want to say Little Nukey, but to be honest it's Chriz' foto. Forgot to credit.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Stephen M on July 16, 2013, 01:27:59 am

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/Gerrioncrookedneck_zpsd68acb45.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/Gerrioncrookedneck_zpsd68acb45.jpg.html)

Gerri on the first ascent of Crooked Neck, one of three in the squash series, No Zukes and Cool as a Cuke were the other routes.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/crookednecktopo_zpscf9d7409.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/crookednecktopo_zpscf9d7409.jpg.html)

Note Pine Tree in photo and on topo. I think there have been bolts added by others since the first ascent.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 16, 2013, 07:04:56 am

The Squash Series, I like it.

Quote from: Stephen M on July 16, 2013, 01:27:59 am

Note Pine Tree in photo and on topo. I think there have been bolts added by others since the first ascent.

Man, now they are bolting trees. There is no hope.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Stephen M on July 16, 2013, 12:53:54 pm

Ha Ha. Good one. Poor editing on my part. A bolt in the ROCK on the 3rd pitch for protection and instead of a sling belay at the top of the crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, a double bolt belay above the crack. Maybe they didn't know they weren't on a first ascent.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on July 16, 2013, 09:24:46 pm

Nice Topo. Tks for the post up.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on July 22, 2013, 07:18:45 pm

Amac needs to post up

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 22, 2013, 07:46:34 pm

Quote from: mungeclimber on July 22, 2013, 07:18:45 pm

Amac needs to post up

Yeah. Totally. Or Munge will get all crazy eyed and and and he will clinch his fists and and and maybe kick something over. Yeah.

Go get em Munge.

He must have pretty pictures or sumpin.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on July 23, 2013, 10:09:46 am

I have inside information that an ascent of Welcome to Courtright was performed.

 :-X

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 23, 2013, 01:05:23 pm

I won't believe it without pictures.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on July 23, 2013, 01:15:15 pm

There was thunder and lightening in the region. No one was harmed in Amacs group.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on July 24, 2013, 10:59:58 am

Quote

I have inside information that an ascent of Welcome to Courtright was performed.

Scandalous! Photos please.

Stephen,
Nice photo and TFPU. I do like the squash names as well. Prefer that to the word crush. :D 
Interested in hearing more about the possibly added bolts if you like to say more on that at some point.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on July 24, 2013, 11:31:38 am

Quote from: susan on July 24, 2013, 10:59:58 am

Quote

I have inside information that an ascent of Welcome to Courtright was performed.

Scandalous! Photos please.

OK!  Now I know I am in trouble. I have done two trips to courtright and have not posted photos. The first trip was over Memorial day weekend. We had a blast and did not make it past Spring Dome and Trapper Dome.  All kinds of moderate routes and perfect for my wife who has only been climbing hand full of times. I recommend Trapper Springs camp group if you can get the site right by the camp ground host, you can almost belay Spring Dome from your campsite!  We had a group of 8 and had a blast.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sf_r_MyJJWk/UaYqpiHIyjI/AAAAAAAAEEc/2CF34pjQYJA/w1145-h859-no/DSC03221.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3IUdlkcq514/UaYqrYCb8RI/AAAAAAAAEE4/tzadUT98GbY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03224.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3IUdlkcq514/UaYqrYCb8RI/AAAAAAAAEE4/tzadUT98GbY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03224.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-73MH1qKEs8k/UaYqsGWkKyI/AAAAAAAAEFM/B_jsGa3-hzo/w1145-h859-no/DSC03226.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d-kxTSFd020/UaYqsye51TI/AAAAAAAAEFU/bDxkWp8XIpM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03227.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7MV9Ep3K-Q4/UaYquFZCZlI/AAAAAAAAEFo/mmXv6_zb7dw/w1145-h859-no/DSC03230.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_-5AxkxJRPE/UaYqwCWPvYI/AAAAAAAAEGE/VDI_tSBL8lQ/w1145-h859-no/DSC03234.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7MV9Ep3K-Q4/UaYquFZCZlI/AAAAAAAAEFo/mmXv6_zb7dw/w1145-h859-no/DSC03230.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iye_cfBI3tg/UaYqybv925I/AAAAAAAAEGs/u6ou3TORopM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03238.JPG])

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5Qkjo_sf4qs/UaYqw1_ipfI/AAAAAAAAEGQ/r5vnvagoAPc/w1145-h859-no/DSC03235.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vavpqb7Ok2c/UaYqy4udgxI/AAAAAAAAEGw/JK5lqB5FkLM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03239.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rR9yQrS8bBw/UaYqzr_s8kI/AAAAAAAAEHA/-wCYqPX-hxw/w644-h859-no/DSC03241.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZtW20w7bFc0/UaYq0UhmNOI/AAAAAAAAEHY/ZXBnyP9kiHI/w1145-h859-no/DSC03243.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3waXAGEEBCw/UaYq0w1fEWI/AAAAAAAAEHU/g7ytmldHn6E/w1145-h859-no/DSC03244.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DEXTbDM12lU/UaYq1eo_GCI/AAAAAAAAEHg/78i88TstAnI/w1145-h859-no/DSC03245.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IuJUV_S-Krk/UaYq2TjXqgI/AAAAAAAAEHw/GZ51CiJmHZg/w1145-h859-no/DSC03247.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sMWO9q_Ho0s/UaYrBKASUnI/AAAAAAAAEK4/ncf2n-BJEEA/w644-h859-no/DSC03272.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C_heOSFyZqQ/UaYrBilZCJI/AAAAAAAAELA/GiteHajtJ08/w1145-h859-no/DSC03273.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8N8Sp_pHYKU/UaYrCuoP4AI/AAAAAAAAELU/PQgayimj-wY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03275.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kn3MdHTzqr8/UaYrDSK11JI/AAAAAAAAELg/oE-zaYCGHLw/w644-h859-no/DSC03277.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v1Mp-1QMoio/UaYrE9yLGJI/AAAAAAAAEMA/nUA_nxR8pa8/w1145-h859-no/DSC03281.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TV35SJQlcJw/UaYrFYuKyLI/AAAAAAAAEMM/8jkwS3_dV3I/w1145-h859-no/DSC03282.JPG)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on July 24, 2013, 11:54:26 am

Quote from: susan on July 24, 2013, 10:59:58 am

Quote

I have inside information that an ascent of Welcome to Courtright was performed.

Scandalous! Photos please.

Last weekend Welcome to Courtright on Power Dome, Tiger Cage Wall, Cracks at the Dam.

Cracks at the Dam
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G1fAVbrZp6M/Ue1kVJ1LOPI/AAAAAAAAFM8/ZyVwz1Wk4Jg/w1145-h859-no/DSC03640.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-37_MSNs94-4/Ue1kVoHnuaI/AAAAAAAAFNE/ioo1D8FZw3k/w1145-h859-no/DSC03641.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d_gsCbvfFSQ/Ue1kWNthbMI/AAAAAAAAFNI/F5mL5YjPWuw/w1145-h859-no/DSC03642.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dRtbGPrDgPk/Ue1kXY0f8yI/AAAAAAAAFNc/msIqS4WGgTI/w644-h859-no/DSC03644.JPG)

Power Dome

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-41ntJN2j62A/Ue1kX3XADNI/AAAAAAAAFNk/g7fxLM06Hn0/w1145-h859-no/DSC03645.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dm439Bj9IpA/Ue1kYeDA-DI/AAAAAAAAFNs/uNL7jsajFqE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03646.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eBbr1zQBbW0/Ue1kawW2-7I/AAAAAAAAFOU/GeHwyjB7arQ/w1145-h859-no/DSC03651.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kg1JYO0FYUY/Ue1kb1atJNI/AAAAAAAAFOk/Fbo26hSKELw/w1145-h859-no/DSC03653.JPG)

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JPj84M6LFXM/Ue1kcCtY05I/AAAAAAAAFOs/FpU4J9WI_RM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03654.JPG)

1st Pitch scary run out traverse before the belay
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3DHuZGn4P80/Ue1keUek2VI/AAAAAAAAFPM/vNwussnk3eM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03658.JPG)

2nd Pitch after a fun lead
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DJOYDJdrutI/Ue1kfBdXHiI/AAAAAAAAFPY/7DthpAZnyQ0/w1145-h859-no/DSC03660.JPG)

Another Party on Little Nukey
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zjESekMPYJY/Ue1khRH7O9I/AAAAAAAAFP8/FtqQQeAQB8s/w1145-h859-no/DSC03664.JPG)

Looking up the 3rd pitch
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HcJoGhFP0P8/Ue1kjC6Qj8I/AAAAAAAAFQU/uTF6PnHH_-k/w1145-h859-no/DSC03667.JPG)

Horrible view
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uc0brheGOPA/Ue1kkLoLtnI/AAAAAAAAFQk/Cy9gajJLRyc/w1145-h859-no/DSC03669.JPG)

Just finished the 4th. I finally used my entire rack of Lowe Tricams!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PiW63M98goU/Ue1kkiGvqwI/AAAAAAAAFQs/hyCUXLjbssQ/w1145-h859-no/DSC03670.JPG)

Thunder started cracking in the middle of the 4th
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cqELNUyWHac/Ue1knK02GuI/AAAAAAAAFRQ/S70S3Q8aJ_o/w1145-h859-no/DSC03675.JPG)

Looking up at the 5th
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UBeHInzFv1k/Ue1klkLR_wI/AAAAAAAAFQ8/ZvYtm-wo31I/w1145-h859-no/DSC03672.JPG)

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uHUAO0j-VkA/Ue1koC-3N8I/AAAAAAAAFRg/RbvDF1BTTXw/w1145-h859-no/DSC03677.JPG)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-50uH5fIQHss/Ue1kqM2Ib6I/AAAAAAAAFR4/vRpk-e2vGno/w1145-h859-no/DSC03680.JPG)

Made it to the top and managed to stay dry.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8x3W45X882Q/Ue1krKv86UI/AAAAAAAAFSM/-dTWrlLFsFk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03682.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EXKX1Fw6Vrc/Ue1krhrRTZI/AAAAAAAAFSU/JeqEx5Jy_w0/w1145-h859-no/DSC03683.JPG)

This Pussy Eats You on The Tiger Cage Wall
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZQVfHBDI-bQ/Ue1kt0c-fZI/AAAAAAAAFS0/W2G4NUJVTuU/w1145-h859-no/DSC03688.JPG)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on July 24, 2013, 12:40:03 pm

Aaron, Tks for the pics. Obviously you had some good days out there. Serious rock porn.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on July 24, 2013, 12:43:43 pm

Thank you for the stoke!  Inspiring shots all of em!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Aaron McDonald on July 24, 2013, 01:52:49 pm

Quote from: susan on July 24, 2013, 12:43:43 pm

Thank you for the stoke!  Inspiring shots all of em!

Does this mean I am not in trouble with you any more?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on July 24, 2013, 03:15:02 pm

You've never been in trouble with me. Sorry if you got that impression. But yes, if there were any trouble at all, I may be easily calmed and distracted by rock porn.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: larsj on July 24, 2013, 06:17:28 pm

TFPU Aaron. 2 of my favorites on Power Dome.  Also like Paraclete.

lars

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 03, 2013, 09:12:40 pm

Trapper for some TR with a newbie. Lot of people fishing and quite a few climbers parked at Tiger and Trapper. Weather was perfect. Perfect air and views. Lake was really low and the island climbs were calling. I will be back for more.

Post a couple pics later when at a computer.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on September 03, 2013, 09:24:36 pm

Ya know, I have been really missing Courtright this year, mostly due to some of these photos so I hope we can make it out there this season. Just hasn't worked out so far. Bring on more photos!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 10, 2013, 08:22:38 am

Panorama from last week end.

The Lake
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130902_104015.jpg)

From the lookout on the road in/out.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k628/Nozukes/20130902_102836.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on September 10, 2013, 08:38:53 am

Awesome shots.

No smoke there.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 10, 2013, 07:15:36 pm

Yeah, Courtwright photos show the truest blue.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Stephen M on September 22, 2013, 01:26:39 am

Two Climbs of a Power Dome Route, once in 1982 and again in 2013. Solar Energy.

Few routes had been done since I had brought Al Swanson out to show him Courtright Reservoir and climb Helm’s Deep. It was 1982 and Gerri Dayharsh and I strolled leisurely around the back side of Power Dome.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/Gerrioncrookedneck_zps03ccda1d.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/Gerrioncrookedneck_zps03ccda1d.jpg.html)

Here’s Gerri Dayharsh, a couple days before, on the first ascent of Crooked Neck.
The heat, even in the morning, convinced us to take a swim in the large granite, bathtub-like pool in the side creek, that later drops into Helm’s Creek.
In 2013, trying to remember the first ascent we did, I thought of the few comments I’d heard after the route, was done, “looks, scary,” “wasn’t sure if I could find it”, and “climbed a route next to it and couldn’t see any pro.” Should we be terrified repeating it or would it be no big deal? I had tried to scare off beginning leaders by mentioning run outs on the first four or five pitches. With little climbing outside over the last several years due to several minor injuries, would I want to repeat the route?
After the 1982 swim, by the time Gerri and I got to the base of the route, following large white dikes in from the right to left, to three or four holes in the dikes, it was late morning.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/IMG_0112_zps243d4b84.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/IMG_0112_zps243d4b84.jpg.html)

White dikes.
Above us we could see maybe 500 feet of face climbing, followed by 200-400 feet of more climbing.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergyfromBottom_zps5cb6c700.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergyfromBottom_zps5cb6c700.jpg.html)


Because one can only hand drill so many holes in solid granite in one day, I can’t imagine I took more than 8-15 bolts. Some people stop for the day after drilling three, two, or only one bolt hole. Aren’t you going to put in a bolt? Gerri asked when I as about 100’ from the belay. “Soon,” I said, and stopped at about 110’ up, just after an interesting move, but before a 5.8 move. From there I ran it out to a ledge where I placed the second and third bolts to make an anchor. Gerri climbed up smoothly and I set out on the second pitch, which started with some 5.6. 5.7, or 5.8 moves…depends on which way you go, I think -  I can’t remember. Much of the granite on the west (Main) face of Power Dome seems featured with horizontal holds as if the face is one wide, but barely eroded into the rock, water streak. My naming it Power Dome (after the power project) was a misnomer as far as the climbing that was needed. It usually requires more delicate than powerful moves.
Continuing on the second pitch, the features were close enough together that the climbing became easier throughout the pitch. I finished the short pitch and placed the fourth and fifth bolts as anchors, then brought Gerri up.
Steep ground lay ahead. Looking up at it in 2013, Jacob said, “What were your thoughts, heading up onto that steep unknown section with only a bolt kit and nobody else around? That was kind of out there.”

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/IMG_0564solarenergy_zps92e66430.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/IMG_0564solarenergy_zps92e66430.jpg.html)

It’s true we didn’t see another soul all day. Gerri had led two pitches of 5.9 and one of 5.10 in her life, but hadn’t had any rescue training. I must have felt ok, because I ascended the steep section for 25’ straight up from the belay, where a fall would mean hitting my belayer half way through a fifty foot fall. I just remember enjoying the climbing. A semi-comfortable stance allowed me to place a bolt and go another 15 feet to where I exclaimed about a hole in the rock. Perfect for a stopper, I saved having to drill; I am stoked. Fifteen feet later, I drill and then run it out 60-80’ to the belay.  I place a very solid piton and three sketchy nuts.
With uncharacteristically no breeze, we are cooking and decide Solar Energy will be the name of the climb. We try to race through the final four pitches to the summit thinking about shade and water.

In 2013, it is time to replace the seven bolts, but Jacob Miller points out that the topo I drew shows runouts on the first four pitches and X ratings on some. And only four or so pieces of protection in 450-500 feet of climbing, not counting the three belay anchors. At the time in ’82 it didn’t seem that bad and in terms of difficulty, it was one of the technically easiest of the routes I reported to guidebook authors.
Jacob and I tension traverse out, guessing where the third belay will be. Second time’s a charm and we see it, though it is a long way out to the third anchor.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergytensiontaverse_zps14be3a93.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergytensiontaverse_zps14be3a93.jpg.html)

However, the piton is gone, probably to a souvenir hunter. I replace the missing pin anchor with two solid bolts. We start to psyche ourselves out about re-climbing the route, due to the steepness and runouts. Taking out my old, supposedly decrepit bolts is the most difficult thing I do.  We pull the ropes, committing to redoing the route and Jacob learns removal and replacement of bolts.
Helms Creek is tantalizingly close at the base, but it would take too much time to reach. Jacob heads up, places two lousy pieces, one of which comes out immediately. One hundred or more feet out from the belay, Jacob cautiously does what seems to him to be the hardest move on the route, taking him up to the first bolt.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergy1stboltsm_zpse3479ae5.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergy1stboltsm_zpse3479ae5.jpg.html)
Just before the first bolt.

I had offered him the bolt kit and almost encouraged him to put in a bolt 10, 20 or 30 feet below that, but he didn’t want it. Above the bolt, he confidently runs it out to the anchors. The second pitch is short, but easy enough that zero protection is not a big problem. I go out right, up, and then back left.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergysecondpitch_zps0ca32cce.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergysecondpitch_zps0ca32cce.jpg.html)
Starting the runout on the second pitch.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergytopofsecondpitch_zps4903ffd8.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergytopofsecondpitch_zps4903ffd8.jpg.html)
End of the second pitch.

The base of the third and Jacob’s next lead looks very intimidating.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergy3rdpitch_zpsf908ca40.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergy3rdpitch_zpsf908ca40.jpg.html)

Power Dome’s edges, pockets, and occasional holes are still there, so he floats up the pitch, extolling the quality of the climbing.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergytricamsm_zps7c2e0217.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergytricamsm_zps7c2e0217.jpg.html)
Pocket for a very welcome stopper or red tri-cam on the third pitch.

Twenty or thirty feet up the fourth pitch we discover a bolt that someone added for pro or as an anchor, perhaps after the piton was taken.  It does help protect the ramp.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergyfourthpitch_zps29fadcb5.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergyfourthpitch_zps29fadcb5.jpg.html)

Fourth pitch.

From the fifth belay, I traverse a full pitch down and right to get our water and then rejoin the route by re-climbing the run out face traverse. A few more pitches of moderate climbing up face, corners and water streaks brings us to the summit before sunset. The length and difficulty remind us of Fairview Dome, but the run-outs make us think that leaders should be very confident on 5.7 and 5.8 and probably at least comfortable leading easy 10s.
Gerri and I had gone out perhaps more boldly than we should have in 1982, but luckily, the rock cooperated, producing holds where needed. Jacob and I, after starting to psyche ourselves out, let my memories of the climb win out over the cautions that I had given to others, that when repeated back to us (like a game of “telephone”) had started to sound pretty scary. We had a great, though thirsty, time.

Summary: July 24, 2013. Repeat of Solar Energy. 5.8 X (or 5.9).  All original bolts placed on lead, on stance. All seven bolts replaced. Two bolts replace a missing piton anchor at third anchor. One new bolt discovered on the fourth pitch.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/powerdome_zpsb3b78fdf.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/powerdome_zpsb3b78fdf.jpg.html)
The climb takes a line on the right hand side of the dome. The lower portion is not visible in the photo.

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergyjacobsummit_zps34be615b.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergyjacobsummit_zps34be615b.jpg.html)

(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/solar%20energy/solarenergystephentop_zpse32e5c4d.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/solar%20energy/solarenergystephentop_zpse32e5c4d.jpg.html)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 22, 2013, 11:32:16 am

Superb!!!

I'd be game for a run on it. The rock looks amazingly good.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: NateD on September 22, 2013, 10:04:22 pm

Thanks for sharing that journey, Stephen! Love the history.

Fab looking sea of granite there. Looks like a difficult route to locate, but the pics will help.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Stephen M on September 22, 2013, 10:31:11 pm

Thanks guys. I hope the White Dikes and Just before the First Bolt (showing the rope piled in the hole) photos are especially helpful in finding the start.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 22, 2013, 10:46:13 pm

I think so. The SEKI guide says "Starts in a large pocket in the crystal dike, 40 feet right of Balance of Power..."

But since BOP doesn't seem very distinct in the SEKI guide, looks like the pics will help find both.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on September 23, 2013, 05:45:52 am

What a great TR and insights on the FA. Thanks Stephen and thanks for updating the hardware too. It sounds more reasonable without the questionable 30 year old bolts and pins.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on September 23, 2013, 06:20:18 am

Some cool clouds over Punk Rock taken from Penstemon. Stupid stuck shutter cover in the corner too.

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1060442_resized.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 23, 2013, 11:08:11 am

Your TR gives me the butterflies. Very much enjoyed the present tense retelling of the FA with the current ascent. Way to go!   

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: YETI on September 23, 2013, 01:25:54 pm

Badass you went back up there and sent that rig on the replacement initiative.

Proud line, and love the affinity for the tricam!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 31, 2014, 12:11:21 pm

Any smoke out there?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on August 01, 2014, 05:48:26 am

hi, not sure, but on my way this morning to courtright, so i will found out, pretty psyched on checking out the new routes on the swiss cheese wall, if you go this weekend  come check me out, i will be at the spring/trapper campgrounds, happy climbing mike a.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: donutnational on August 01, 2014, 07:35:32 am

I went to tamarack ridge to boulder yesterday and it was very smokey, so I'm guessing courtright is probably pretty smokey,  it's a little better in the foothills this am so I'm hoping courtright will be ok today. 

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on August 01, 2014, 08:08:39 am

Thanks for the updates. We had some miserable trips due to smoke inhalation last year during the Aspen Fire so hoping for semi-clear air somewhere.

Mike- photos of the trip please!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun on August 01, 2014, 11:57:01 am

Gotta love Tricams!! And Welcome to Courtright is awesome.....start lower and do Wichita Lineman to make it 6 pitches.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on August 06, 2014, 03:57:13 pm

just got back from courtright no smoke some t-showers and checked out the swiss cheese wall, not hard to find and super mellow 3 pitch routes, going to fresno dome early friday morning, at oakhurst this morning some smoke but way better then last friday, things looking better at shuteye today :-), happy climbing mike a.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 06, 2014, 04:02:51 pm

Yeah! Thanks for the update on Shuteye conditions.

How was the Swiss Cheese wall?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on August 06, 2014, 04:49:58 pm

hi, the swiss cheese wall is super mellow climbing, 3 pitch tall slab climbing wall, lots of anchors, hour hike from the old power dome camp site " Geo interpation sign" backside of power dome, it would be a great place to camp, great wall to show newbe's multi-pitch climbing.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on August 06, 2014, 06:04:17 pm

cool, thx for the smoke update.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 06, 2014, 11:43:38 pm

Cute name Swiss cheese wall. Must be pocketed and make you feel like a mouse.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: larsj on August 07, 2014, 01:01:35 pm

Any word on the new Courtright guide? Better yet, directions to Swiss Cheese Wall?  Thanks
lars

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on August 07, 2014, 08:21:39 pm

hi if you need info on swiss cheese wall, look on rockclimbing.com or mountian project.com i got stuff there about swiss cheese wall, hope thats helpful.cheers mike a.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 07, 2014, 08:28:52 pm

http://mountainproject.com/v/swiss-cheese-wall/109322589 (http://mountainproject.com/v/swiss-cheese-wall/109322589)
Here's a link for Mike's reference.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: larsj on August 08, 2014, 02:29:52 pm

Many thanx-lars

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: flydude on September 02, 2014, 04:53:08 pm

FINALLY!, coming to closure on the Courtright and Vicinity Guide.  With a sampler of some Shaver Lake areas and Wishon I'm at about 500+ routes.
(...and 4 years of research).  If anyone out there has action photos you might want considered for inclusion, feel free to contact me at dwightk@cityofclovis.com. 
Also would like to include personal stories and perspectives.

Thanks to everyone who has helped on this venture, hope to have a book out by spring.

Regards, dwight

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 02, 2014, 05:58:10 pm

Dwight, did I already ask you if you were including Hoffman routes?  We added some routes a little bit ago. Hoffman is doable in a day, but more commonly done as overnight trips.

RB

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: flydude on September 03, 2014, 09:01:37 am

Hadn't considered it, should I.  Been primarily focused on Courtright (..and buried)...fill me in on what you have and let's chat...d..

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 03, 2014, 09:59:00 am

yeah, I don't rightly know if it's worth it. It's usually an overnight. Only up to 4 pitches. It's in wilderness, so the character is a little different. If one were to include Hoffman, it somewhat begs the question of whether to include Finger Rock and Obelisk too.

Some of the info is here...
http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=126.0

The main topos are on Summitpost that Brutus put together.

Godar is working on an updated version too.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on September 03, 2014, 02:13:59 pm

Excited to see the new guide Dwight. Thanks for all of the hard work.

Good point Munge about how adding Hoffman would almost require Finger Rock and the Obelisk to be in there. But you need to draw a line somewhere or next thing you know you are covering Western Nevada too! Those three suggested additional formations do kinda neatly fit into the scope of the guide if Wishon is in there.

I never finished that topo for Hoffman due to some missing details and too much guesswork but what I have so far is available if you want it Dwight. I plan to work on it after the next trip coming up soon so I would recommend waiting a bit.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 04, 2014, 10:09:53 pm

Really are a lot of nice shots in this thread. The area is so photogenic. Anyone holding out...? Sure would like to see more photos of this area.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 30, 2014, 12:58:20 pm

Quote

east face of Dogtooth Peak in 1976 was particularly phenomenal, being full of jugs that even put the last pitch of The Hobbit Book to shame

jeleazarian

yowzer!

Let's roll!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 30, 2014, 04:17:59 pm

Munge, I have not been able to get back in there since late June. When I hiked some people to the top I could see portions. The east 'tooth' is very feature and resembles many a rock in Shuteye with CH and plates. I wasn't able to see the lower sections but OH IT LOOKED SO GOOD!

Cliff Lake is a great base camp for a multi day trip. 5 miles to the lake from car. 1 mile from lake to dome. But be WARNED!!!! It will be difficult to walk away from Cliff Lake. The SE side has a 200'-400' cliff with more cracks than you know what to do with.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on September 30, 2014, 04:36:08 pm

OH POPPA!

lol

could be hella fun. Boat across, set up camp, climb like a fiend, take in views.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 30, 2014, 10:43:50 pm

Cracks? Quacks? Canoe? Sounds like a plan one of these days.

Add: by "quacks" I only refer to the duck menu from the hoffman thread...

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on October 01, 2014, 08:47:34 am

I have never thought about boating to the stream. I have always gone in from the packers trail head just past Spring Dome CG. Plenty of parking and an easy trail.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on October 02, 2014, 06:33:19 pm

It looks like I am going to Courtright this weekend. Leave Friday evening, probably come back Monday. I've never been there. Since I have climbed exactly twice this year, I hope there are some easy routes. Look for me if you happen to be going too.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on October 02, 2014, 07:09:20 pm

Dan, my partner situation is kinda kyboshed. I may head into Hoffman. If I do that Saturday, I could be in the area Sunday.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on October 02, 2014, 07:30:27 pm

Join us. I will be with one partner but we can always make a party of three work. We are mostly interested in hanging out, having a few drinks and having fun. My partner doesn't post on forums or appear on facebook but he is a good camper and former guide. He is the guy in the orange shirt below. (I poached this from DR's Facebook page although I was there on that trip)

(http://www.danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Martini.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on October 02, 2014, 07:42:35 pm

cool.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on October 02, 2014, 10:02:05 pm

Great photo! Martinis of all things. A good drink for a long hike. All else that is needed are olives, worth their weight...

We have soyo plans but your plan sounds pretty darn awesome.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on October 02, 2014, 10:36:50 pm

By the way I tried the Dammer last summer and quite liked it... it seemed a better driving force than any other with all the weight of it only where it is needed.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on October 03, 2014, 07:20:42 am

Glad you liked the hammer. I've been making a few of hammers lately. I've found some better handles with slightly smaller grip and changed the head - may not work better but looks better. Hopefully I can get one to you and John to try out.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on October 03, 2014, 08:22:44 am

Great photo. Are those martini glasses made by nalgene?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on October 03, 2014, 11:43:18 am

That would be great, Dan. Hopefully we can cross paths soon. I have this terrible feeling that we don't have much time before weather kicks in out there. If the madness of the squirrels is any sign... they've been cuckoo lately.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on October 05, 2014, 05:33:41 pm

If anyone left any gear at Courtright this weekend Berry has it. He posted up on ST.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: VM on October 06, 2014, 10:28:58 pm

I wonder when is the new Courtright guide coming out. Place looks sweet. Hoffman is close by eh? Might go there next week, maybe. Or needles, or Calavaras...or...

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: splitclimber on November 19, 2015, 04:54:46 pm

looking down first pitch of Little Nukey on Power Dome
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/SNOWBOARDCLIMB/Hoffman-Mountain-and/i-ZGM3tFn/0/XL/140831NC-140831DSCN8104-XL.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on November 24, 2015, 04:36:27 pm

Breathtaking perspective. Tempting me to post some if I can find the ones this reminds me of.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 05, 2017, 12:40:43 pm

I picked up a copy of the Courtright guide from the gym. Dwight did us proud! Great read, pics and overall info. He is having a book signing at Metal Mark gym in Fresno on the 13th, this next Tuesday. I believe at 6pm. Lets show him some support and thanks.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on June 05, 2017, 12:57:50 pm

Little Nukey is such a nice climb. Yeah, I'm really enjoying the guide. If I were closer or going thru town that day, I would.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 06, 2017, 01:51:36 pm

Nice! We'll have to get one yet! Referring to the new guide... :)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 07, 2017, 11:14:31 am

Quote

He (Dwight) is having a book signing at Metal Mark gym in Fresno on the 13th, this next Tuesday. I believe at 6pm. Lets show him some support and thanks.

Nice to hear some friends were there and had a great time! Wish we could have joined in.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 16, 2017, 03:40:13 pm

Aug 4th-6th is a full moon. We are going to have a gathering at Courtright. Nothing organized except camping, climbing, and drinking by the fire.....repeatedly. Dwight is planning on joining in. Probably camp on or around the back side of Power Dome. Hope to see some of you there.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on June 18, 2017, 10:37:11 pm

Nice! Our August seems to be getting jam packed, so it's good to hear about now to maybe keep that weekend free and swing it. Thanks for mentioning it as it sounds great! O man summer is gonna fly!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 19, 2017, 08:00:39 am

sounds like a fun time be super psyched to climb A Little Nukey, any one out there down to climb it with me???  :)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on June 19, 2017, 12:52:21 pm

Mike A., Paul wants to get on that so if you can't find a partner we can go as three.

We also plan on Divorce Quartz by moonlight. Should be a good weekend.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 20, 2017, 08:34:52 am

cool!!!, sounds fun!!!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: wingnut on June 24, 2017, 04:27:31 pm

Anyone know when the road to Courtright will open? I am guessing Friday?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 26, 2017, 11:04:59 pm

i hear the road opens the 29th??? maybe go up there Thursday and see if it's open then.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on June 28, 2017, 08:29:06 am

Courtright Road opens today :-) going up there tomorrow!!!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on June 28, 2017, 12:02:09 pm

Today? Thought it was tomorrow? Either case, enjoy. Temps looking crisp and perfect now!

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: wingnut on June 28, 2017, 03:32:57 pm

Horray! Maybe I'll see you up there :)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on July 25, 2017, 10:56:04 am

Bump for Aug 4-6. Hope to see some of you up there.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mike a on July 28, 2017, 08:25:49 pm

Hi all, was at courtright today and yesterday, very crowded most free camp sites full!!!, but pay camp sites opened this week, but only 16 sites at trapper/spring camp site are first come bases the other 80 site at trapper/spring and marmot site have to make reservations, not sure where the 2 climbing groups are going to stay but I booked camp site 49 at trapper/spring camp site  Aug 3-7 so if any one want to come by drink a beer or go climbing look me up, happy climbing Mike A.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on July 30, 2017, 08:58:57 am

Nice Mike. I am hoping to find something free but we will see. I was up there yesterday at Spring Dome for a few laps. Went up with 4x4 Joe and we met a few guys from the gym up the who were camping with their families at Spring Dome CG. I could not believe how full the CG was.

Cool guys. We ran over to Spring Dome for some lapse and that. mountain sun started heating up. Good time.

Ran into Linda who had been there for 10 days. She said John and Sue were climbing there somewhere. well. Sorry I missed you all.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 31, 2017, 07:56:46 pm

Too bad we missed you Dave, Linda said she saw you guys. She was having an incredible vacation and her enthusiasm was really contagious.

We did run into Mark F. on Sunday morning and got to hang out for a bit. Good to see you, Mark.

That was an awesome trip for us, in all other trips we hadn't ever gotten on Power Dome before due to heat or rain. We did Little Nukey and Welcome To Courtright and would have gone to Courtright more often if we had known how awesome the routes are on Power Dome. It was even surprisingly bearable in the full sun with a nice breeze both days. Can't wait to go back there.

Super Sue
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0436_resized.jpg)


Nukey P4 I think
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0470_resized.jpg)


Last Pitch of Nukey
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0486_resized.jpg)


P2 of Welcome
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0537_resized.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on July 31, 2017, 08:24:55 pm

John, was you that said I don't understand those Lowe Tri Cam things?

Did you see the perfect solution pockets on Nukey for the cams?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on July 31, 2017, 11:20:16 pm

I did not use any of those tri-thingies on Nukey but they sure are the perfect gear for it.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 01, 2017, 12:11:57 am

I loved using tricams again even tho one placement didn't turn out so well, the rest were the bomb. Had not broken that gear out of the toolbox for so long and never liked them so much anywhere else.  Very fun placements, and some critical. John used aliens instead in some of those pockets.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on August 01, 2017, 10:19:50 am

lol

one of us...one of us...one of us...

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on August 01, 2017, 05:04:44 pm

I really am boggled by how those crazy pockets are formed, they don't make any sense. If it was a water-wearing thing, then why are the tops of the holes recessed too?!? The only way I can imagine them being formed by water is if there was some major water pressure shooting at the holes for long periods of time. Really neat rock.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 01, 2017, 05:25:00 pm

The best holes are wider inside in a lot of cases making sweet spots for gear, not to mention when there are the cool thread-throughs.

I like imagining that sort of water spigot event. And/or the rock when forming had air pockets and bubbles and/or some other kind of round material intruded into the batter that erodes faster than the surrounding rock??

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 02, 2017, 06:49:12 am

Chance of t-storms 20% most the week... but here's how that same forecast panned out last Sunday... just fine.


(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0569_resized.jpg)

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: splitclimber on August 02, 2017, 10:19:54 am

great pics.

what do the kids say nowadays - "I'm jelly".  :D

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 02, 2017, 10:53:01 am

Well it's about time we get you back on the jelly front.

Been meaning to express how much we would love to go to the shindig out there this weekend, but there's a work conflict making us a maybe.

May have said it before, but foul weather has made for some really fun parties, everyone hanging out by a campfire under rigged tarp shelters, getting high spirited...

 

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Dave on August 02, 2017, 11:34:56 am

Sad to say that I'm a 'no show' for this weekend. Just can't get a dogsitter for Maggie. I had hoped to get on longer routes instead of craggin'.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 03, 2017, 10:15:36 am

Too bad. Maybe another time this year. Assuming you were partnering with Erin, has she done multipitch climbs yet? Dealt with cams & nuts etc.? Has she done any rapelling yet? Seems it would be fun to show her all about these things.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: Dave on August 03, 2017, 10:44:17 am

She's done one multi-pitch route. Still hasn't rapped yet. I'd like to get her out on other things rather than just crag TR'ing. Thus, the dog issue.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 07, 2017, 08:45:34 am

How the heck was it?! Wish we could'a made it. Threatening forecast and all.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on August 07, 2017, 11:33:47 am

Posted this on the taco, Wish there was less rain. Had some big plans that we scratched due to rain. Still a great weekend as always.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2986767&tn=80

Courtright was a good time. Paul and I got up there Thursday night in the rain. Beer and whiskey in the plush 6 person tent. Camped just past the geological sight on the left in the trees, Awesome spot. A few others from Paul's work joined us as well as Eric Swanson, Limpingcrab and Climberdude during the weekend. Mike A. Stopped by bringing his Tequila shots in hand.

Paul and I got on East Power Dome then over to Punk Rock which I had never been to. One climb and rain chased us back to our beer and whiskey.

Saturday we returned to Punk Rock to get some TR set up for Paul's work friends who had never climbed outside. They did well and had fun.

After Crabs got his harness back from the newbies, he and I spied a line toward the left side of the tree area that holds the big 5.2 to the ledge. Clean granite lie back for 165' to a ledge. Moved belay to the right 40', near where the 5.2 finishes, and up another fun line, slightly dirtier but good pro, of crack/ lieback, for 100' to boulders for anchor, walk off. Almost an epic since I forgot to bring water up from the base. We discussed the route after and figured it went at least 5.6d.

Hold the Beaver 5.6d Pro to 3" 2p. FA Jeffcoach/Fries 08/05/17 @ 12:35:06 hours with threat of looming thunder, lightening and rain.

Daniel then wanted to try the corner head wall on the far right side of the wall. Pancake type wall with some reachy moves in the .11s. The top out showed Crabs true form as he went inverted feet up into an offwidth roof crack. Couldn't right himself over the ledge but had his hands on the top lip so in gym style he sent that bitch....Soggy McDouble's..... a soon to be famous newly named project.

Wrapped up and back to camp for lunch and tall tails of epic moderate sends. We finished the day at Damn Cracks which I took pictures of with Crabs camera since I forgot my phone for pics and felt like poop. They sent the lines which was quite the talk of the damn people standing on the damn while fishing from the damn or driving across the damn.

Sunday we went and climbed some newer routes on the approach trail to West PD, Page 86,87 in guide book. Climbed a 5.7 with some cool features of finger pocket and quartz bulges called a classic Champagne Colored Asians and then the .10b/c to it's left. Cool area looking down over the creek.

Back to the camp for some tri-tip sandwiches and a beer before hitting the road back to Fresburg. Good times......

Hopefully those with a camera will post up some pics. I will post some once I get some forwarded to me.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on August 07, 2017, 11:08:17 pm

Hah volumes of fun must have been had regardless of the weather! Funny how the weather turned at Lunesta Fiesta too.


Please do post photos if you get some, would love to see! Wow inverted OW/levitation climbing sounds amazing! And a new 5.6D! :)






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Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on August 08, 2017, 10:04:21 am

I still laugh at the 5.6d. We decided to poke fun at the 5.6+ rated route on the wall. Good laughs.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 10, 2017, 09:09:17 pm

Good time today at Tiger Cage. Been years since I climbed there. Fun little wall. Did a couple 5.9s and three.10b routes. With five of us there was always someone to Belay. Weather was cool in the shade with nice breeze.

Anyone climb on Upper Tier. Looks like many crack routes of fun.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 11, 2017, 05:35:52 pm

Yes we climbed there this season a couple of times - really sweet place! What I love about this crag, aside from being pretty and offering shade & sun options, well, shade at least for some belay spots, is the variety of climbing in both the types of climbs and also for a wide range of difficulty levels.

A couple of shots :

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0864_resized.jpg)
Brandon climbing the all star crack - forget the exact name

(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0817_resized.jpg)
Rog on Tiger's Not a Dog

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 11, 2017, 09:16:02 pm

Yah, fun routes. Ever climb on the wall above it, Upper Tier?

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: susan on September 11, 2017, 10:49:22 pm

Not been on that upper tier yet.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on September 12, 2017, 09:59:59 am

I saw Upper Tier mentioned in the guide book, w/o any topo or route descriptions, but have never climbed there. It says there are a few .10 climbs and a couple sets of anchors on top of it. I walked up to check it out and it appeared to be slightly less steep than Tiger Cage but loaded with cracks. It did not appear to have any bolted face climbs like T-Cage. Probably 15+ crack lines. Looks like a good time.

While walking around when we first got there I made my way to far climbers right of Tiger Cage and could see the lake. The island was completely out of the water and you could have walked out to it. By the time we finished at Tiger Cage and drove over to the lake to get check out the island, the water had risen to needing a boat or possibly wading out. We scratched the plan and had beers on the dam. With the daily draining and pumping in/out of Wishon for hydro power it appears the best time to try for the island would be in the morning before the water level rises again.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: DaveyTree on May 21, 2021, 02:39:48 pm

I just called the Ranger station in Prather. I was told the road to Courtright is open.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on May 22, 2021, 09:18:50 am

Does that mean one could drive all of the way to Courtright and climb or is it just unlocked? Do tell....

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: wingnut on May 22, 2021, 11:08:50 am

Friends of mine drove in last weekend and climbed. I imagine there is fresh snow however after yesterday and today's storm

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: John on May 24, 2021, 09:52:21 am

Woohoo!!

That's good enough for me to be convinced it is open. There's no way any snow will stick this late in the season.

Title: Re: Courtright
Post by: mungeclimber on June 27, 2021, 05:43:55 pm

Thinkin fondly of CR trips from a while back...

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51274486767_39ebbf65b0_b.jpg)