Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: susan on May 13, 2013, 08:27:05 am
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Anyone get out there lately - where did you go? How was it? See anyone else? What did you do and climb?
Last minute a friend called to cancel plans for Tahoe, so we went to the Big Sleep area. No one else was around. Climbed some new routes on an area crag, then went down to Minarets next day. Saw no one else all weekend. Except we did see the camp host setup again at Soda Springs.
There was a forest fire of concern which finally got under control towards sundown yesterday. It seemed located about halfway between Lower Chiquito camp towards the north by Beasores but not as far as the Balls. A couple of fire fighting helicopters tirelessly refilled all afternoon at Mammoth Pools and maybe Bass Lake if not Chilkoot. The smoke had been noticeable all the way to Big Sleep as of Sunday morning but was much improved by mid afternoon.
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Here's a quick video of the fire:
http://youtu.be/MPMQxfFbTJo
A snapshot from the Mile High Lookout
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040030.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040030.jpg.html)
We were visited by this helicopter a couple of times while climbing - they came in real close - seemed a friendly gesture - probably some curious climber in there.
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040050.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040050.jpg.html)
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Sigrid and I have been climbing at Upper Willow Creek, Enchanted and Fresno Dome on both multi pitch and single pitch sport. No climbers or even chalk on the routes. Tons of people at Fresno Dome yesterday but I wasn't climbing so don't know if it was hikers or maybe some climbers too.
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Finals week starts this Wednesday so lots of people are busy finishing up school. I give my last final next week and my son has his last final next week so we are planning to go up the weekend of the 25th. I invited a few people but right now it looks like it will be me, my son and perhaps three of his college friends - two girls and a guy. The kids are strong climbers and happy to lead 5.9 clip ups but need to learn a bit more about placing gear. I was thinking of taking them Big Sleep area on Friday. I was hoping Bob and/or my friend Jay would go to help lead and teach but it doesn't look like they will make it.
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We wondered if you were around Sunday, Jerry. Did you notice any smoke out that way at all? I wonder what caused the fire. Does the SoYo suburb east of the Jones store have a name? I wondered if the fire was pretty-close there.
Big Sleep seems to have mostly mixed climbs, and several run. Afternoon Nap is probably one of the more straight-forward of the routes there, yet I can think of an upper pitch that might be tricky for someone not used to placing gear but which is great fun otherwise. It is a nice area not just for Big Sleep but for the many other outcroppings there... amazes me when we don't find anyone else there. Camping on the slabs and the big sky facing west are highlights. Then too taking the dirt road out of there to Minarets doesn't seem that far.
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http://www.sierrastar.com/2013/05/13/62543/wildland-firefighters-battle-fire.html
Here is a link to info on the fire. We could smell the smoke at our house but didn't know where it was.
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I can't believe we were so smoked out on Sunday AM on the West side of the ridge with what seems to be such a small fire.
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Good to read that there was a substantial ground effort too. Going to be a busy fire year.
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full containment by tomorrow means clear sailing for the weekend!
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Whoop! For sure Munge!
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Got to tag along with Mucci and SteveO on their secret squirrel big wall project in Illilouette canyon.
lars
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Big thunderheads and rain in the high country yesterday, Tuesday. Chance again Thursday-Friday night. It's been cloudy over the crest most afternoon.
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I am not afraid.
cu there!
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Dan, Did you get out to Southern Yosemite with your son and his friends last weekend? If so, where did you end up and how did it go?
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Had a great rare 3 day weekend out there. Highlight being hugs from both John and Sue.
I went out there with a great friend from Fresnoooooo, Mikey, and her friend Mike. First time for both of them at Gray, although Mikey has been elswhere in the general area. It was Mikes first time in Shuteye and he loved Gray but not Chiquito so much. The first day Mikey was looking for something fun in the 5.8 range to lead so I hooked her up with the first pitch of Dream Within a Dream. She did a great job leading it then Mike and I enjoyed a lap each. After that Mike rope gunned us up Wander Lust P1, Shades of Gray, and finished the day off with Gravey Train P1(consensus was 11c on P1 of Gravey Train). Sunday Mikey and I finished the second pitch of Gravey Train while Mike hiked/climbed up to Electric Eagle to check it out. I was very pleased how the second pitch of Gravey Train turned out. It is a well protected yet very exciting upward slanting traverse right that reaches then continues over the obvious yellow roof. I ended the pitch about 30 or so feet above the roof on a nice ledge. The pitch ended up being harder than I expected, about 10c/d and less than 100'. I stopped the pitch short to prevent rope drag but also because the stance was big and so cool. We rapped to the ground with 2 ropes, 1 60m and one 70m. I think with one 60 you could rap to the anchor of Gray Expectations and then to the ground. Later that day Miked joined back up with us and took over again gunning us up P1 of the Titanic and P1 of When Dreams Come True. He loved both pitches but really loved the Titanic although he thought it was stout for 10a. The last day we finished ourselves off at Chiquito Dome. Don't know the names of all the routes but I enjoyed them all. I think we did six or seven pitches. That day I was also siked by a suprise vist from Sue and John who also came up to climb. There were also 4 other friendly folks enjoying the routes up there. Very cool.
Wish I had brought the camera. Maybe Sue will post a few from the last day.
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Really great to hang out with you, Jeff, and meet your friends! Wow, you guys did a lot of pitches! Turned out to be great climbing that day for us too - so glad it cooled. I enjoyed those steep routes on Chiquito big time - though don't know the names except the one of yours called Belleza which is fitting, cool features, steep and enduring. Also, that and all your routes on Gray which we've tried, which are most of them, are sure to become classics. We few who have climbed them know this for certain - time will show for sure.
I'll get photos uploaded soon to share unless John beats me to it. The other party there that day I'm sure was taking great photos. Did you see that camera?
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Camera? Was that Thornburg? Saw his FB page has some recent posts from SE.
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Yes, I saw Thornburg take some photos of Sue on Chiquito BTW.
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Susan-
I went to Big Sleep with my son Ford, Bob Steed and Bob's family. We took turns baby sitting and climbing. The weather was perfect. We saw one pair of climbers on Saturday (Slater & friend with Bosch working on something over to the right) and another pair on Sunday who came in from the Shuteye Peak direction (no car in sight). We didn't see anybody on Monday.
Hard to believe I've been going to SoYo since the 90's and this was my first visit to Big Sleep.
Bob, Ford and I did a route left of Drench Warfare on Saturday which was two pitches (5.6 and 5.easy).
Bob and Ford did a pitch left of that on Monday.
Also tried afternoon Nap.
Also replaced the first anchors on The Big Sleep.
Bob made topos and I suppose he will send them out.
Bob's baby boy:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/23.JPG)
My baby boy:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/48.JPG)
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Great shots, Dan! So sweet you and Bob were able to get out there with your boys. Great going on the new routing too! Looking forward to seeing the topos. Big thanks for the new hardware on The Big Sleep!
Did you walk east when you topped out on Big Sleep? Five minutes to great views up there.
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That sounds like a really great weekend, Dan.
Two climbing weekends in one month for Bob! Wow!
Looking forward to trying the new routes. I was wondering when someone would put routes in there. Nice job.
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Jeff, Great going on pushing up Gravy Train p2 too! Very cool!
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Really heart warming shots there Dan.
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Hard to believe I've been going to SoYo since the 90's and this was my first visit to Big Sleep.
Me too - 'cept I haven't been yet! Someday I'll get out there. I've driven the roads with young ones in tow, but haven't climbed at all in that area.
Fine pics of the offspring! Thanks for sharing.
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Mikey on the Playground Wall 5.9
Nice lead! These are my favorite of the shots of her.
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040278.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040278.jpg.html)
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/7fd40291-7806-4837-8743-97b5ae7cee0d.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/7fd40291-7806-4837-8743-97b5ae7cee0d.jpg.html)
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Mike onsighting the 12+
Very cool!
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040297.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040297.jpg.html)
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040300.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040300.jpg.html)
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Jeff - At Chiquito, what are you on here? This was toward the end of the day. Great climbing! Too bad it was getting dark...
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040330.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040330.jpg.html)
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1040329ed.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1040329ed.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the pics Sue. Any of you and John from that day turn out? Not sure of the name of the route that I am TRing. 12a right of Audios Amigos. Looks very steep in your last pic!
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Haha caving steep. The orientation wouldn't behave, so I overcompensated on purpose last night but now this. Hopefully this fix will stick.
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Just occurred to me while working... that Jeff you asked if any of the photos of us turned out from Monday. They are gray blah and too dark to be worth posting, though nice for us to have personally so thanks for taking them! Just sent our camera to be fixed, as some debris is trapped in the lens and messing up many shots. We also had a backup camera, but it's slow reaction time is frustrating, trying to capture something fleeting. Better than nothing for now.