Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Beyond Southern Yosemite => Beyond Southern Yosemite => Topic started by: John on June 10, 2019, 02:32:42 pm
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Any word on the conditions of the road in from this last weekend? So stinkin hot I can't imaging it being closed much longer. Thanks!
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I didn't see any info about it but it seems like it would definitely speed up the opening.
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Morning all, if anyone thinking of going to Courtright this weekend come by Marmot camp grounds site 5 I will be there 2-5 climbing, parting, and swimming, happy climbing Mike A.
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Go Runout and Pray was rebolted and climbed this weekend by some people way bolder than me. Go do it if you dare.
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Looking to see if it is open yet or if the june 1st date is set in stone
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Listed as open on SNF website.
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Morning all, went to Courtright yesterday for a day trip to do a little climbing, swimming, check out a couple new routes and cool off with a couple beers, it was not packed with people and was pretty mellow there, was a awesome fun day!!! happy climbing Mike A.
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Thanks Mike, heading up tomorrow for an undisclosed adventure
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Pretty sure you just disclosed your adventure.
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Hey Mike;
By chance did you check out the new routes we put up at Tiger Cage?
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Wingnut, you have a topo or info?
John, Lott’s stuff wide open up there. Hopefully no smoke.
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Nothing too exciting, just a couple single pitch routes at the Tiger cage. In between Bonsai crack and the offwidth
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119319588/jigsaw
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119335249/talitha-kumi
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Morning all, no did not see your new routes at Tiger Cage, where are they? check it out next time I go thanks, I was there to check out Gerry G's Bolted routes he put up last year at Upper Tiger Cage according from Dave D's comments on that area on MP, he said the route to the left on the crack in the corner he said its 10+ but its more like 5.7 not sure where he get the rating 10+??? I was there to climb all 4 of the bolted routes there so I could put that info in my Courtright guide book, thanks for the heads up on your new stuff happy climbing Mike A.
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Tks Wingnut
Mike, not sure if you climbed Ger’s route. We TRd it during Lunesta. It is def not a 5.7. It starts with really thin moves off the ground at a black section of rock and another cruxy section higher. I haven’t climbed it since it was bolted but I remember thinking it had .10 cruxes.
Was up at Courtright area this weekend with Paulie and Joe. We were able to put up a 5p route on Locke Rock on the far left that starts beside a group of 3-4 short trees and goes up a layered right facing book at the start. Took the hand drill but luckily went all trad which is a good thing since we didn’t rope up until 1230 from the nights festivities. Night Train 5.6, 880’ gear to 3” with doubles of #2. Woolsey, Fries, Amico 8/22/20. Not my favorite route I have put up but pretty area and the dome is huge. We were looking for something easier on the north side of it hoping for shade and our 880’ was much less than starting from the area you see from the lake. No shade found since we got such a late start.
We were able to get out of smoke and had stars at night. We stayed at 4x4 Voyager Camp ground. Joe brother in-law had a HUGE jeep and dropped us at the Meadow below Locke. Rough drive but amazing what that thing can climb over. Cheating? We didn’t care and was glad not to have to walk out.
Of all the weekends, there was another crew putting up a new line we saw on the wall on the way in. Heard someone yell Brandon during their ascent and it turned out to be Brandon Thau, Vitaliy and another guy. I didn’t get the details of their route other than it is mid 5.11 called Locked and Loaded. Looked like an awesome line.
I am under the belief it is probably the first time that dome has seen two FAs in the same day.
Locke is so much bigger when at the base.
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Evening, yes I climbed all 4 of those routes and no 5.10's there!!!
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Tks Wingnut
Mike, not sure if you climbed Ger’s route. We TRd it during Lunesta. It is def not a 5.7. It starts with really thin moves off the ground at a black section of rock and another cruxy section higher. I haven’t climbed it since it was bolted but I remember thinking it had .10 cruxes.
Was up at Courtright area this weekend with Paulie and Joe. We were able to put up a 5p route on Locke Rock on the far left that starts beside a group of 3-4 short trees and goes up a layered right facing book at the start. Took the hand drill but luckily went all trad which is a good thing since we didn’t rope up until 1230 from the nights festivities. Night Train 5.6, 880’ gear to 3” with doubles of #2. Woolsey, Fries, Amico 8/22/20. Not my favorite route I have put up but pretty area and the dome is huge. We were looking for something easier on the north side of it hoping for shade and our 880’ was much less than starting from the area you see from the lake. No shade found since we got such a late start.
We were able to get out of smoke and had stars at night. We stayed at 4x4 Voyager Camp ground. Joe brother in-law had a HUGE jeep and dropped us at the Meadow below Locke. Rough drive but amazing what that thing can climb over. Cheating? We didn’t care and was glad not to have to walk out.
Of all the weekends, there was another crew putting up a new line we saw on the wall on the way in. Heard someone yell Brandon during their ascent and it turned out to be Brandon Thau, Vitaliy and another guy. I didn’t get the details of their route other than it is mid 5.11 called Locked and Loaded. Looked like an awesome line.
I am under the belief it is probably the first time that dome has seen two FAs in the same day.
Locke is so much bigger when at the base.
LOL, that was you at there with Vitaliy! Send it!
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Vitaliy, Brandon and Brian's new route --
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119442936/locked-loaded
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Even if it’s not a favorite route of yours, Dave, what a good time. Something about the late night, late start, full camping fun...
Thanks for posting on all the new route activity.
Haven’t had good weather or clean air anywhere I’ve been in over a week until today. Weekend conditions ahead look stellar, so hopefully it stays clear and cool.
Btw I haven’t been to the area at Tiger Wall with Ger’s new routes yet, but am curious and I do think Ger’s ratings are real consistent FWIW. If you are talking about our Tiki...