Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => West of the San Joaquin River Canyon => Topic started by: mungeclimber on April 08, 2013, 10:53:12 am
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anyone got pics of Squaw climbing?
It seems so close, but I have been assured, it is a little bit of a walk.
-first post in subforum style points achieved! 8)
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Uh oh, John's attempts to create boundaries for areas in SoYo is falling apart. :) He's got Squaw (now officially renamed Piyau) Dome (google the renaming of all "offensive" and "racist" Squaw features across America) listed under West of the San Joaquin Gorge subforum.
But here's a 'lil pic of the start of the fab Snake Crack (5.8) on the north side. Really not a bad approach if you do it right, hiking from the end of the road just south of the dome. A very scenic summit as well.
(http://images.summitpost.org/original/104497.jpg)
Lars has spent some time there as well.
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noyce
still snow in there right now.
edit - wait, why is the boundary falling apart? I'm pretty sure I posted in the right subforum. :)
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First Ascent info
When we did (what was, apparently, the FA of) the west face of Squaw Dome then, we encountered several rectangular (usually square) holes that were useless for the Stoppers and Hexcentrics we had. Hand-placing angles and tying them off worked great, although I suspect Aliens or Tri-Cams would also work now. Do you remember encountering anything like that on Balloon Dome?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1871450&tn=20
Post by
JEleazarian
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Thanks munge. John E. had shared an original topo from his early ascent of the dome. I'm sure he'd allow us to share it. It's slightly different, if memory serves, than the west face/crack route described in the Spencer guide.
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Munge-
Bad Munge, wrong subforum. Maybe you can use the split function to re-categorize it? We can't have anarchy!
Nate-
Would you ask JE if we can post his topo? I have it and can put it on the private downloadable section or in the public area if he wishes.
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John,
JE is good with you posting the topos (Squaw and Hawk) publicly. Where is the public download area anyway? Just a "topos" thread within the region, or a separate downloads section altogether? It would be handy if people can comment. I'll happily post some of his additional notes (and maybe he'll chime in as well).
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Munge-
Bad Munge, wrong subforum. Maybe you can use the split function to re-categorize it? We can't have anarchy!
If you make me an admin, I can split threads. ;)
As a default user, no can split. But I don't mind deleting posts and reposting in the right spot.
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Oh. I didn't know that the split function was only available to me. I will try and split it....wish me luck...if the lights start flickering, I screwed up bad.
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It worked!
For the record for those who are trying to figure out what the heck we are talking about upthread, this topic was in the wrong category and I moved it to this category.
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John,
JE is good with you posting the topos (Squaw and Hawk) publicly. Where is the public download area anyway? Just a "topos" thread within the region, or a separate downloads section altogether? It would be handy if people can comment. I'll happily post some of his additional notes (and maybe he'll chime in as well).
Nate,
The Downloads section is a category at the bottom of all of the other categories, below the Bunnell Point category and only viewable when you are logged in.
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Nice job with the thread migration.
Ok, fair enough. I thought that downloads section was only for password protected stuff. So you'll simply note what is available without a password? Can members actually post "public" topos (pdfs) for others to download? Or can we only post pics (jpgs of topos, which aren't typically as high rez and user friendly)? Let the masses know. ;)
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EDIT: I moved the Squaw topo to the Downloads category
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So did I just mess things up by doing a little test in the downloads folder? I created an Original Topos topic and posted a pdf attachment for John Eleazarian's topo for Hawk Dome, with some notes. Seems to have worked, and publicly (for members) available. Me likey. OK?
I can create a link in the Fresno Dome subforum as well, I suppose. Sure would be nice to have one stop shopping and all downloads in the downloads folder. If not, it may get harder and harder to find things as the forum grows?
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I just realized that there is a function for that below where you edit posts and I changed the above post to show that.
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OK, just learned something. The downloads don't show up when you are not logged in.
No such thing as public downloads I guess. People just gotta sign up.
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That seems fine to me. But there is a difference between member downloads and member downloads requiring an additional password set by you.
How about downloads (PDFs) that aren't put into a topic under the (members only) Download section? Like the link you inserted in this Squaw thread? I'll have to log out to see if that shows up.
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Nate-
Log out and look at the post I have for the Squaw topo and you will see that the link disappears. The only way to have "public" topos available would be for me to put them on a public part of the server and share the link. I can do that if anyone asks.
Otherwise, they are only available to logged in people and I can further hide some with the password-protected part as needed.
I would prefer that the topos are posted in their appropriate categories but maybe keep them all organized in the Downloads category? I doubt that would work out for long.
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Nate- got a bit of a chuckle out of the name change from racist, non PC, Squaw Dome since a Native American friend calls it the "Squaws Tit". However we named one of our routes on South Squaw Dome "Native Lady" out of respect.
Munge- Take the South Fork Road to the base of South Squaw Dome, do one of the routes on that then walk down to the west base of the north dome and follow that to "Snake Crack" 20 minutes from the top of the south dome to "Snake Crack".
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I've seen it referred to as "Squaw Dome" "Squaws Tit" "Squaw Nipple Peak" and "Piyau Dome" http://geonames.usgs.gov/pls/gnispublic/f?p=132:3:8340649278120357::NO::P3_FID,P3_TITLE:235312%2CPiyau%20Dome
The U.S. Board on Geographic Names operated the Geographic Names Information System (GNIS). It has guidelines for naming unnamed features and for changing the names of features. Perhaps some of the SoYo crags are worthy of their own name. Might be fun to try.
I'd be happy to submit a name. Which crag do you think is worthy? Queen's Throne is big and prominent.
http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/
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Sure thing, Dan! Did you give this a try yet?
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/P1100256.jpg)
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/P1100268.jpg)
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Yay for the fine summit of Squaw!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_87MDFnX0MI/U_PuIJKMS3I/AAAAAAAAAcE/UlfL9koAD-k/w1296-h287-no/squawpanorama18.jpg)
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lol - you are not a triplet, but even if you were, what would the chances be that you'd all like to climb. cool shots and effect Nate!
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Munge- Take the South Fork Road to the base of South Squaw Dome, do one of the routes on that then walk down to the west base of the north dome and follow that to "Snake Crack" 20 minutes from the top of the south dome to "Snake Crack".
gracias! Sorry I didn't see this earlier.
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Snake Crack is fun, I just wish it was longer.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SnakeCrack.jpg)
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Snake Crack is fun, I just wish it was longer.
I agree!
The Piyau Trailhead road and parking area were cleaned up and even have new signs with the new name Piyau on them. Now you can get all the way down the road( it was previously blocked with trees). The thing is, I still have no clue as to where the hell the actual "trail" is!
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Nice shot of happy partners there Dan.
We were reminded of beautiful Tuolomne rock climbing this route.
Someone should probably update the name in the site and thread w/squaw in parentheses.
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I like Jerry's suggestion there Munge, more climbing than hiking that way.
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We were reminded of beautiful Tuolomne rock climbing this route.
Although I have yet to actually climb in Tuolumne, I've heard the same from others in terms of the large crystals on that north face. Did you guys climb Medusa, the bolted single pitch to the right? If so, how was it?
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WOT?!?!? not actually climbed in Tuolumen?>>>!>!>!;lksdflkas;dfk
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I'm a devout SoYoist to a fault!
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We did not climb Medusa. When we topped out there were threatening clouds coming. They never delivered over us, though were close.
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seems like there are a lot of things to stand on top of in these parts. this one looks gud.
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I climbed John Eleazarian's Piyu Dome West Face Route today. This is a fantastic route. The topo available on the members section is right on except for there are now two welcome belay bolts at "The Oven" belay. I cannot imagine how you would get a belay here without those bolts. All pitches indicated in the topo are short except for Pitch 4.
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"The Oven" is definitely an apt name for the third pitch belay location.
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My wife and I are headed up Sunday for a few days camping at my usual spot at Piyau. Munge, you know the spot. We will be scattering the ashes of my oldest and best friend of over 50 years, Robert 'BuB' Della Valle. We spent many summers up there and he wished it to be his final rest [as do I]. Drop by if you are in the area M through W. Pic is of BuB on a long backpack we did from Mineral King to the Kaweahs where we climbed Squaretop, then out through Angel's Wings. Pistolas welcome. Best-lars
(http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/thumbnail_img103_resized.jpg?5ee4f125a210d)
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Good to hear you're heading up. It's a good spot. Rest well Bub!
Thx for the invite. Unfortunately, I'm down in SJ doing some recovery from a minor procedure and also nursing epicondylitis in the right elbow. Keep me in mind for the next outing, as usual.
And fire a few rounds for me!
Missing the SoYo.
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Lars, I bet many of us have that final wish in common, to get scattered where we have felt happily free, explored to exhaustion, and revitalized in the beauty of the place time and again. I’m So very sorry for your loss. Cheers to your 50 years of friendship with Bubb, and yes many fiery rounds!
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I hope it went well Lars. Great pic and tribute to your friend.
it is a beautiful location
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Vacations/SUMMERFUN/General-Climbing/i-sTWz5p2/0/d9d24d9a/X2/20200515_135933-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Vacations/SUMMERFUN/General-Climbing/i-mkCxFJt/0/a7c16aef/X2/20200515_150737-X2.jpg)
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Stunning photos!
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Sorry to hear about your loss Lars. Long friendships like that are rare.