Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: mungeclimber on October 10, 2016, 04:34:09 pm

Title: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: mungeclimber on October 10, 2016, 04:34:09 pm

This is what I place, about the same depth...

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3847/14463766856_728f73d50c_c.jpg)

Helps me maintain focus when I do it that way.

Title: Re: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: John on October 10, 2016, 06:18:56 pm

Yikes!

Title: Re: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on October 12, 2016, 02:53:52 pm

Bear in mind that the only load capacity requirement for chocks is 2 kN (450 lbs). A #5 stopper is only rated for 6 kN (1350 Lbs) even though the UIAA technically only requires 2 kN. That button head is ugly but probably better than a small chock. The UIAA is not rational concerning equipment capacity.

Title: Re: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: susan on October 17, 2016, 03:54:55 pm

Thought this was a very well written article - anyone read it yet? http://www.climbing.com/gear/the-future-of-bolting/ (http://www.climbing.com/gear/the-future-of-bolting/)

Title: Re: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on October 18, 2016, 02:13:20 pm

That poor guy in the article photo needs a decent hammer and decent drill holder.

Title: Re: Bolting Standard for the SoYo
Post by: susan on November 02, 2016, 03:35:15 pm

Yes, looks kind of intentionally a touch prehistoric.